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港铁香港站 C 出口, 步行约5分钟 继续阅读
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食记 (8)
等级4 2018-07-13
220 浏览
今周非常有口福,美食一顿接一顿,今天先介绍中环 H Queen's 25楼的 Arbor:餐厅以丛林为概念,将中环静谧一隅,打造成充满魅力的餐饮热点;而来自芳兰的主厨 Eric Räty,又擅长选用日式素材,炮制清新不腻的创意法式料理,十分值得欣赏! 作为星级餐厅 ÉPURE 姊妹店,Arbor 其实是拉丁文「树」的意思,因此餐厅结合了自然风格及休闲氛围。餐厅占地不算很大,但仍然划分成酒吧及用餐区,同时也设有另一风格的厢房, 我们就坐是用餐区。 在这区可以清楚望到中环美景,初抵达时还有日光,之後夜幕开始低垂,景致越来越迷人!Arbor 晚市餐单相当简单,就是两款 Tasting Menu,这晚我们享用了八道菜晚餐;内容会根据食客膳食要求有所更改。 以一杯香槟打开胃口,首先是近期吃过最出色的面包篮;餐厅自家制的南瓜仁、阿麻子仁及向日葵面包味道超棒,搽上柔滑美味海草昆布味及铿鱼牛油,好幸福的感受!带印式香料香气的薄脆又是另一惊艳位,想不吃淀粉质?难矣~反而首道菜的 Sea Urchin 虽然也鲜甜美妙,加上沙棘带来了变奏,但仍是意料中的味道,哗然程度不及面包牛油。 接着是 Rock Oyster,来自日本巨大鲜甜又 creamy 的岩蚝,在配上蚝叶、酸忌廉等,带来前所未有的新奇北欧风滋味,彻底打开了嚐鲜的胃口,为接下来的 Lagoustine 作好准备。 这里的 Lagoustine 曾得识饮识食的叶 Sir 大赞,这天一试果然惊为天人:海螯虾吃得多,但来自纯净冰岛的第一次吃,肉质份外鲜甜,以炭火烤至外层香口、中间仍保留刺身嫩滑感;配以日本生果蕃茄、蕃茄清汤以及用冲绳黑糖煮的昆布,是清鲜动人之极致,是必试推介! 接着又有 Summer Truffle,是黑松露、鸡油菌及米形意粉的组合,香气扑鼻是自然的事,然而口感也异常的柔滑香浓,就是有种令人吃不停口的魔力,让戒淀粉质中的我彻底破戒! 接着是 Turbot,多宝鱼其实也皮脆肉香,同上微酸开胃的泡沫酱汁更加美味,比楼上就是高了几班,不过那加上绿茶粉的薯仔可爱得来有点饱滞,终於被我嫌弃了~ 晚间的 Arbor 光线很弱,拍不到 Wagyu A4 淋上酱汁的一刻啊!不要紧,那就赶紧趁热,将丰腴美味、色泽嫣红粉嫩的日本和牛,通通送进嘴巴好了,吃完刚好超满足了~ 很喜欢 Chef Eric 的菜式美味得来并不腻滞,来列甜品环节也是一样,首先有 White Peach:超清甜的白桃本身已经很讨喜,加上紫苏味的脆片、raw cream 及果味雪葩,进一步提昇了果香清香,好一道美妙消暑夏日甜点! 而最後的 Medelaine 贝壳蛋糕,香甜、松化、饱满,兼带幽幽柠檬及清酒香气,迷人极了!拍照後一定要趁热享用;另一边的马卡龙虽也好吃,但难免被比下去。 非常美味满足的一顿,吃完与食友们都觉得,这里甚至比 ÉPURE 更有惊喜;希望 Chef Eric 继续努力,年底带来摘星好消息! 继续阅读
(以上食记乃用户个人意见 , 并不代表OpenRice之观点。)
等级4 2018-06-10
2506 浏览
早前海港城的「ÉPURE」摘下香港米芝莲一星,可喜可贺,亦令精致而有活力的法国菜系得到认同,不会再给人只有拘谨严肃的感觉。 位於中环新开的「Arbor」,与「Epure」属同集团,走更有创意 fusion 的法国料理路线。 餐厅以落地玻璃设计为主,自然光充足,坐拥中环靓景: 此店可说是城中新贵,午市常爆,我当日亦见到一位司长来吃饭。Menu 以简洁为主,只列出食材名,令菜式添上神秘感。 负责主理「Ambor」的是 Chef Eric Räty,也就是某本地着名米芝莲餐厅的前主厨,在这里他的创意可说是发挥的淋沛漓尽致: 先上暖烘焙面包,配木鱼牛油及松露牛油,木鱼牛油已轻透 fusion 感: 「Foie Gras」 菜名就这样简单。冷吃鸭肝酱,配苏玳甜白酒、大黄酸辣酱、日本梅干、烤荞麦和矢车菊。鸭肝慕斯打得幼丝细滑,质感轻薄,体现厨技。搭配酸甜梅干及有咬口的荞麦粒,不论味道及口感,都有所提升: 「Langoustine」 即是冰岛小龙虾,去殻後用炭火轻把表面烤熟,内里仍保持嫩及刺身般的状态: Chef Eric 将龙虾搭配日本蕃茄,用黑啤、黑醋栗、黑糖及雪莉醋腌渍过的日本昆布,昆布油,蕃茄清汤啫喱,木鱼等,整体味道清甜,亦看得到心思所在: 「Asparagus」 第当造的法国青芦笋和白芦笋,搭配味噌荷兰酱。青芦笋面层铺上有「水果中鱼子酱」之称的指灯粒和食用花,卖相矜贵: 事先切好的白芦笋嫩而多汁,青芦笋则清而爽口,配酱同吃是有将食味和层次感一步一步推进,出色: 「Wagyu beef A4」 不是传统的法式牛扒和薯条,而是用油脂分布均匀和鲜嫩的鹿儿岛A4和牛,配紫薯脆片及混合了柚子牛油的蕃薯蓉。吃次前淋上烤过的唐辛子及印度马拉巴胡椒汁,十分大胆及有创意的配搭: 不得不说,肉质软嫩有致,轻轻一切就分开,沾印度马拉巴胡椒汁吃,有些孜然及茴香的味道,是第一次感受这种味觉配合: 「Soy Milk」(with Madeleine) 最後甜品上场,Chef Eric 说灵感是来自豆腐花,看上去像木块的脆腐皮用蜂蜜和牛油烤焗成,配豆奶味雪糕和底下的自家制咸蛋黄白朱古力,可说是心思非常: 不得不提,旁边的日本黑豆竟然是用了我们「九龙酱园」豉油沾过的,甜中带咸,是真・中西合璧。 整个用餐体验非常捧,菜式由头至尾都充满惊喜,服务员彬彬有礼,介绍每道菜也清𥇦利落。会否成为下年入围米芝莲的新贵?大家晰目以待。 继续阅读
(以上食记乃用户个人意见 , 并不代表OpenRice之观点。)
等级4 2018-05-28
1966 浏览
这家新店大有来头,是米芝莲星级餐厅Epure的姊妹店, 主打日式新派法国菜。这餐厅位於中环H Queens廿五楼,可一览摩天高楼景色.装修以自然木色同绿色为主,两边窗唔透着自然光,没有epure 的华丽堂皇,而是舒服自在的家庭感觉。席上的客人以商务客户居多,和epure 有点不同,也许与餐厅位置的关系吧。这儿的Lunch set 有三款,分别为3个course$468,4个course $538, 或4 course omasake$698. Bread basket 有sour dough 同脆片,配以自家制的牛油有昆布及日本木鱼口味。sour dough 外脆内软,充满气孔,而木鱼牛油带有和风味道,咸香中透出木鱼气息。配上昆布牛油又另有一番风味,是一阵清新的海草味道,十分特别。Amuse broche 这带子sushi造型精致,鲜嫩的带子下是小薯同沙律汁,就是法日fusion的寿司,有趣,但无乜味道的惊喜。Foie gras鹅肝蓉配上、大黄根同日本梅,还有紫色小花点缀,卖相很美。鹅肝口感软滑,味道浓郁,加上清新酸甜的日本梅,平衡了鹅肝的肥腻感觉,而当中的大黄根同荞麦粒,令它增添了香口的味道同脆脆口感,令味道更有层次,是几十分迎合夏天菜式。Sweet corn velouto 曰本冲绳的粟米烤得焦香,口感爽脆。粟米汤口感幼滑creamy ,味道甜美,夹有少量明太子的鲜味,是一个几完美的粟米二重奏。Sea bream这道慢煮cod Fish,配以接骨木花的汁,还有小花在鱼件上,十分夏日的意象。这鳕鱼肉质结实有囗感,带有鱼脂的油份,滑溜溜的。鱼肉拌以酸酸甜甜的接骨木花泡沬,加埋米醋腌过的青提子,酸甜并置,令郁闷嘅胃口大开,整体味道淸爽而怡人。Passion fruit黑芝麻朱古力波波细细粒好可爱。一放入口,内𥚃的热情果汁,卜一声爆出来。清新热情果味道淸新带酸,同香甜的朱古力好夹!正!还有黑芝麻雪芭同黑芝麻脆脆也十分味美。雪芭芝麻味十分香浓软滑,配合热情果和西米,一甜一酸,一西一曰,真是完全配撘,是轻怡又味浓的甜品。Petite fours:Madeleine 贝壳蛋糕烤得外脆内软,唔油腻,唔会太甜仲满有旦香,还带点点的清酒同青柠皮的味道,不错。Cappuccino:卖相不错,咖啡味道甘香,而奶比较薄身,虽然不致奶滑,但味道可以。由头盘吃到甜品,无论味道或份量都恰到好处,整体感觉唔错。法式煮法用上日式食材,同Haku, Ta Vie, a nu retrouvez -vous 走相近路缐,而价格定位也唔差太远。然而,四家之中,各有千秋,前者和风囗味比较重,而这家法式主道辅以曰式食材,有或多或少epure的影子。今天一个人庆祝,餐厅环境舒适唔焗促,感觉悠然自得。以午餐而言,这儿的菜单比较epure 更能形合季节。下次要相约友人再度拜访,同epure 再比较一下。 继续阅读
(以上食记乃用户个人意见 , 并不代表OpenRice之观点。)
等级4 2018-05-05
3111 浏览
One Michelin starred Épure has recently opened across the harbour at H Queen's, the newest art hub and dining paradise in Central. Arbor, its sister establishment, becomes the latest member to join the city's crowded fine dining scene, which is going to get even more crowded with the likes of Ecriture joining the party this month.I was curious of who they would put in charge of Arbor's kitchen and it turned out, chef Eric Räty, who was the former chef de cuisine at Café Gray Deluxe at The Upper House, was the man entrusted to take the helm.I have recruited up-and-coming foodie, MOM (no relation to MI6) to be my partner-in-crime for this lunch. Let's see if their contemporary French cuisine could get her out of her seat. We had a bit of a problem deciding whether to take the 3-course ($468) and 4-course ($538) menu. Unlike some of the other fine dining establishments, the multi-course menus here are completely different without a single common item, which created a little headache for the both of us.After some nerve-racking moments, we were finally able to decide. I will take on the 4-course menu while mom will have 3-course. Thankfully, the restaurant does not require us to take the same menu (like some places would).Our amuse bouche was a scoop of foie gras custard served on a bed of rhubarb purée along with Japanese plum coulis and shaved buckwheat. Pretty good start.Bread was some homemade sourdough served with two types of butter. The left one was made with bonito. Didn't get the second one but I thought it's kombu with a bit of herbs on top.I traded starters with mom coz she doesn't like raw fish. On the other hand, I'm a sucker for hamachi so this was a perfect trade, at least on my part. This was just very delicious. The silky hamachi sashimi was perfectly matched with Japanese tomato and served in a light tomato consommé infused with kombu oil. It was a very refreshing dish and the clean flavors from the tomato were an amazing way to kick off the meal.In place of the hamachi sashimi, mom was having my Ebisu oyster but since she doesn't like raw oyster (on top of raw fish), the kitchen did their part turning it into a lightly poached oyster for her. This was a pretty nice dish too. The oyster was paired with cucumber granita, pickled cucumber, oyster leaf and buttermilk espuma. Again very clean and natural flavors, this time coming from the cucumber and oyster leaf which helped to give this dish another dimension.The second dish from the 4-course set was something that I've been seeing a lot lately - green and white asparagus which are in-season right now. These were poached and served with finger lime for some nice acidity and a special Hollandaise sauce infused with white miso. Not bad.Both of our main courses were coming up fast and furious. Mom's having French chicken with a slice of roasted chicken breast nicely complemented with a second portion from the leg which has been confit (I think). Some carrot purée on the side helped to offset the richness of the chicken.My main course was braised veal cheek with sweet potato, purple potato chip and fresh black pepper. While the dish didn't score very high with its presentation, I thought the veal cheek was really nice and tender. There were different textures of sweet potato and purple potato there to balance things out. For mom, dessert was a few sticks of chocolate mousse with chocolate crumble and scoop of sorbet which I guessed was basil (didn't get the chance to try it myself so I guess I would never find out). Pretty decent.I got more premium Japanese ingredients, this time it was Japanese strawberries in a chilled strawberry soup. I was busy answering a call when our server was explaining all the ingredients so like mom's sorbet, I missed the part about my sorbet as well. But judging from the flavors, I would take a wild guess that it's green tomato!?A freshly made madeleine straight from the oven serving as our petite four.Living up to its reputation as a French-Japanese fusion, Arbor combines modern French cooking with premium Japanese ingredients. I thought Arbor's cuisine is a lot more contemporary comparing to Épure's and you can really tell the difference in style. But after all, I guess there's no point of making the two alike.This was the second of my four highly anticipated meals this week. With HAKU and Arbor down, I still have à nu retrouvez-vous and Ecriture coming up later the week. A really busy week for my stomach! 继续阅读
(以上食记乃用户个人意见 , 并不代表OpenRice之观点。)
等级3 2018-07-09
171 浏览
周六去吃午餐 分别点了不同套餐 3 courses & 4 courses & omakase (4 courses)两款牛油都很特别 一款是紫菜味 很有shake shake粉感觉 一款是鲣鱼味 挺特别面包上有太阳花籽一起烘焙 感觉有点硬Octopus (3 courses)八爪鱼很软腍 微微炭烤过 挺好吃Foie gras (4 courses)鹅肝很软滑 加入了日本莓类 笋和荞麦 味道有点酸 还可以Oyster (omakase)生蚝叶放在最上加了香槟水珠和青瓜冰粒挺特别 生蚝很鲜甜挺好吃Sweet corn velouté (4 courses)粟米汤加入了蓝龙虾汤底 最上面加了curry oil 整个配搭挺奇怪 幸好粟米味很浓郁Asparagus (omakase)芦笋上面放了青柠粒 配以荷兰酱 比较普通 芦笋不算很清甜Iberico pork (3 courses)黑毛猪比较普通 肉质不够软腍 有点韧Cod (4 courses)鳕鱼上面放了海葡萄 辣筋和接骨木花 接骨木花汁打成泡沫鱼肉嫩滑 但所有食材一起吃味道感觉有点太多 挺奇怪Fish (omakase)酱汁以柚子煮成 鱼肉较实 轻微烤过表面 外脆内软 味道挺好Organic chocolate (3 courses)巧克力挞配上焦糖酱 整道甜品就是很甜很溜的感觉 幸好有咖啡cream和雪糕中和一下Passion fruit (4 courses)热情果酱汁混合西米 配上黑芝麻雪糕 感觉不太配合 而且白巧克力里面是芝麻热情果馅 很奇怪Citrus (omakase)雪葩是四季柑桔味 微酸挺清新 配上脆糖感觉挺好 服务环境挺不错 不过当天去的时候是中午有点热 特别是背面都是玻璃阳光直照食物挺令人失望的 感觉配搭得很奇怪 两位友人都觉得没必要再访 继续阅读
(以上食记乃用户个人意见 , 并不代表OpenRice之观点。)