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賞心悅目
2012-10-28 52 瀏覽
說Jason Atherton 是未來亞洲最有影響力的廚師之一可能有點言之過早，但他在區內的發展的確可謂一日千里。與他早在2007年已有過一面之緣，當時他還在地獄廚神Gordon Ramsay 旗下位於倫敦的「Maze」餐廳擔任總廚，在他領導之下，餐廳首次取得一星米芝蓮的榮譽。2010年離開Gordon Ramsay 和「Maze」之後，他跟生意伙伴先後在星加坡和上海開設了自己的餐廳，位於灣仔船街22 號地下的「22 Ships」便是他在亞洲的第四間餐廳。餐廳充份利用「三面台」的吧檯設計，客人雖然坐得較為緊貼，但氣氛依然融洽。中央位置是廚師表演的舞台，從吧檯享受美食之餘，同時可欣賞到一道道美味的 tapas 經過精心炮製後逐一登場，過程實在精彩絕倫。只可惜午膳當日不見 Atherton 本人親自現身，的確有點失望。不過好消息是這天是餐廳試業的最後一天，所有食物一律半價之下，吃得特別開懷。 帶子刺身、柚子醬、豉油汁、燒青瓜、青蘋果絲 (Grade: 4/5)醬汁是每道 tapas 的靈魂，它能透過不同味道的配搭，將普通的食材變成人間極品。美食團隊在醬汁的運用方面當然亦個個訓練有素，準備就
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說Jason Atherton 是未來亞洲最有影響力的廚師之一可能有點言之過早，但他在區內的發展的確可謂一日千里。與他早在2007年已有過一面之緣，當時他還在地獄廚神Gordon Ramsay 旗下位於倫敦的「Maze」餐廳擔任總廚，在他領導之下，餐廳首次取得一星米芝蓮的榮譽。2010年離開Gordon Ramsay 和「Maze」之後，他跟生意伙伴先後在星加坡和上海開設了自己的餐廳，位於灣仔船街22 號地下的「22 Ships」便是他在亞洲的第四間餐廳。
菜式跟 Atherton在星加坡的tapas bar "Esquina" 大同小異。
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 餐廳充份利用「三面台」的吧檯設計，客人雖然坐得較為緊貼，但氣氛依然融洽。中央位置是廚師表演的舞台，從吧檯享受美食之餘，同時可欣賞到一道道美味的 tapas 經過精心炮製後逐一登場，過程實在精彩絕倫。

只可惜午膳當日不見 Atherton 本人親自現身，的確有點失望。不過好消息是這天是餐廳試業的最後一天，所有食物一律半價之下，吃得特別開懷。
餐廳充份利用「三面台」的吧檯設計，客人雖然坐得會較為緊貼，但氣氛依然融洽。
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美食團隊個個忙過不停炮製出賞心悅目的tapas。
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帶子刺身、柚子醬、豉油汁、燒青瓜、青蘋果絲 (Grade: 4/5)
醬汁是每道 tapas 的靈魂，它能透過不同味道的配搭，將普通的食材變成人間極品。美食團隊在醬汁的運用方面當然亦個個訓練有素，準備就緒炮製出色香味。

期待終於過去，第一款菜式 - 帶子刺身率先現身。刺身的份量雖然不算多，但簡簡單單三片厚肉的帶子，加上無數七彩繽紛的配料和醬汁，賣相相當奪目，但味道會否同樣吸引？

帶子加入柚子醬和豉油汁之後，鮮味變得更為突出。菜式再配以燒青瓜、青蘋果絲、日式蘿蔔和青豆蓉，青豆蓉特別用了少許wasabi 來調味，丁點兒的辛辣為整道菜式錦上添花，成功豐富了口感。
帶子刺身加上無數七彩繽紛的配料和醬汁後，賣相特別悅目。
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香煎吞拿魚、配麵豉、雪梨醬汁 (Grade: 4/5)
吞拿魚用近似 ahi tuna 的做法，將外層輕輕煎熟，但中心仍然保持透明。吞拿魚入口本身已鮮味十足，配合麵豉雪梨醬汁後層次感更加分明，鮮味亦更顯注。
吞拿魚本身已鮮味十足，配合醬汁後層次感更加分明。
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醃油甘魚、配西班牙凍湯、時蔬 (Grade: 3/5)
這款 tapas 繼續大玩食材的配對，今次嫩滑的油甘魚伴以洋蔥、青瓜和蕃茄等，再混入一杯冰凍的西班牙蕃茄凍湯。配料的味道對比雖大，但無論賣相以至效果都沒有之前的帶子或吞拿魚那麼突出。
油甘魚即使加入冰凍的西班牙蕃茄凍湯後仍未見突出。
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煙三文魚、炒蛋、魚子醬 (Grade: 4/5)
西班牙人很喜歡吃炒蛋，簡簡單單加點洋蔥、薯仔也可以吃得一大餐。不過 22 Ships 的這款豪華版炒蛋，精緻之外，味道同樣出色。
三文魚帶輕微的煙燻香味，而且入口即化。
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 菜式以煙三文魚、炒蛋和豆蓉組成鐵三角，三文魚好像用了慢煮方法低溫處理一樣，半熟之間又帶輕微的煙燻香味，入口即化。炒蛋和魚子醬跟三文魚亦是個美妙的配搭，蛋的幼滑和魚子醬的鮮味進一步將魚的味道提升，最後放入凝固的豆蓉，口感和層次都令人份外滿足。

西班牙魷魚焗飯、配洋芫荽汁 (Grade: 3.5/5)
西班牙海鮮焗飯吃得多，西班牙魷魚焗飯相比較為少見，味道卻同樣窩心。焗飯調味略嫌偏重，但飯的咬口不俗，配以彈牙的魷魚粒，整體感覺如在品嚐一碗美味的 risotto 一樣。
較為少見的西班牙魷魚焗飯，味道窩心。
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炭燒黑毛豬扒鵝肝漢堡、配牛油果醬、醃青瓜 (Grade: 4/5)
招牌菜迷你燒黑毛豬扒鵝肝漢堡也絕對不能錯過。麵包採用正宗的傳統漢堡，口感特別鬆軟，加上鮮嫩和肉汁豐厚的黑毛豬扒，味道自然更加豐富。鵝肝雖然份量不多，主要只作吊味之用，但想不到味道跟黑毛豬和牛油果醬出奇地協調，配搭完滿新鮮感，效果惹味。
招牌菜迷你燒黑毛豬扒鵝肝漢堡絕對不能錯過。
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燒乳豬、配燒蘋果粒、西班牙小甜紅椒香草汁 (Grade: 3.5/5)
另一款招牌菜燒乳豬跟中式做法截然不同，乳豬皮不似得中式的那麼酥脆，入口有點黐牙。不過豬的肉質的確鮮嫩幼滑，加上適量的脂肪，入口自然特別滋味。

廚師在醬汁內刻意放入燒蘋果粒和西班牙小甜紅椒，一方面有助調味，另外也順便減輕菜式的油膩感。唯一美中不足的是乳豬似乎不是黑毛豬級數的貨色，因此豬的鮮味比較淡然，否則菜式整體的效果必然更佳。
燒乳豬的肉質鮮嫩幼滑，加上適量的脂肪，入口自然特別滋味。
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"PBJ" - 花生雪糕、藍莓、鹽味花生焦糖醬 (Grade: 3/5)
一頓豐富的午餐沒有甜品當然不夠完滿，因此點來兩款精緻的甜點試試，先來一款廚師推介的 PBJ 來清新一下味蕾。

不過有點令人奇怪的是，甜品雖以花生來命名，主角卻變成放置在中央的藍莓味雪芭，細小棒型的花生味雪糕和不同種類的雜莓都只能充當配襯。

總括而言，這款甜品最特色之處莫過於略帶鹽香的花生焦糖醬，但除此以外，味道就頗為一般。
甜品雖以花生來命名，但主角反而變成放置在中央的藍莓味雪芭。
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羊奶乳酪雪芭、蜜糖餅碎、甜合桃 (Grade: 4/5)
另一款甜品羊奶乳酪雪芭反而帶來更大驚喜。滿以為羊奶乳酪雪芭入口會有種點膻味，感覺亦會較難消化，想不到濃度調校得如此恰到好處之下，口感可以那麽清新醒神，配以蜜糖餅碎和甜合桃，嚼勁一流，每匙都是幸福。
羊奶乳酪雪芭入口清新醒神，配以蜜糖餅碎和甜合桃，嚼勁一流。
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總結
一款款美侖美奐的tapas除了賣相令人賞心悅目之外，食材的配搭以至味道都令人期待。製作的過程亦是享受的一部份，過程扣人心弦之外，也為整頓午餐形做來無限驚喜。

七款tapas加兩道甜品之後，埋單盛惠$1000，一點不算便宜，幸好試業期間有半價優惠，令這個兩小時的味覺旅程即時變得化算。
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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    $210 (午餐)
    推介美食
    餐廳充份利用「三面台」的吧檯設計，客人雖然坐得會較為緊貼，但氣氛依然融洽。
    美食團隊個個忙過不停炮製出賞心悅目的tapas。
    菜式跟 Atherton在星加坡的tapas bar "Esquina" 大同小異。
    帶子刺身加上無數七彩繽紛的配料和醬汁後，賣相特別悅目。
    吞拿魚本身已鮮味十足，配合醬汁後層次感更加分明。
    招牌菜迷你燒黑毛豬扒鵝肝漢堡絕對不能錯過。
    羊奶乳酪雪芭入口清新醒神，配以蜜糖餅碎和甜合桃，嚼勁一流。
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    22 Ships: Seems promising for now
    2012-10-25 227 瀏覽
    Although there are many new openings recently, very few ones caught my eyes as my past experiences seem to be mostly disappointing (especially when they just opened). 22 Ships intrigued me because of some interesting items on the menu. Plus, I have always loved tapas so it didn't seem to hurt to try!I wanted to try on Wed (Oct 18) during their soft opening but it was all full at lunch time. So I came again on Saturday night (Oct 20)and it was surprisingly just a 30 minute wait (I thought it w
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    Although there are many new openings recently, very few ones caught my eyes as my past experiences seem to be mostly disappointing (especially when they just opened). 22 Ships intrigued me because of some interesting items on the menu. Plus, I have always loved tapas so it didn't seem to hurt to try!

    I wanted to try on Wed (Oct 18) during their soft opening but it was all full at lunch time. So I came again on Saturday night (Oct 20)and it was surprisingly just a 30 minute wait (I thought it will be more than an hour!). 3 of us started with the housemade sangria and shared these dishes together:
    Housemade Sangria
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     .

    Salt cod brandade Ortiz anchovy and herb paste
    Salt cod brandade Ortiz anchovy and herb paste
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     Very smooth and creamy (though I don't mind chucky). But the brandade flavor was quite subtle. I preferred a bit more seasoning.

    Marinated hamachi, gazpacho dressing and garnish
    Marinated Hamachi, gazpacho dressing
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     The hamachi was of good quality and quite refreshing in taste. Better than most fusion Japanese restaurants at least....

    Gambas, chili and garlic
    Gambas, chili and garlic
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     Too ordinary, too predictable in taste.

    Foie gras and sweetbread empanada, caper and burnt onion jam
    Foie gras & sweetbread empanada: need 1 more try
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     This was the dish that sounded intriguing to me as I am a BIG fan of sweetbreads (the thymus glands, of course) We split it among 3 people so I only had little empanada and couldn't detect much sweetbread. The onion jam portion was overwhelming compared to the topping, overshadowing all the other ingredients. But I need to eat this again myself to get a fair assessment.

    Suckling pig, roasted apple with spices, piquillo pepper jus
    Suckling pig, roasted apple, piquillo pepper jus
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     Portion was large compared to the other dishes (esp. given its price point). Skin wasn't the crispy type and was a little sticky to the teeth, but the meat was tender and moist. Well seasoned and went well with the spiced apple puree. Overall I liked this dish.

    Besides the ribs there was more meat underneath. Nice and tender.
    Hearty in portion, meat was juicy and tender
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     .

    Baked smoked bone marrow, onion jam and sourdough, gentleman's relish butter
    Baked smoked bone marrow (marrow & meat mix)
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     Quite like this rendition of bone marrow with meat mixed in, making it less greasy and heavy especially that it was baked enough (really don't like underbaked marrows...)

    The combination of the marrow mixture with the crispy crumbs, relish, and onion jam was quite ubiquitous, yet delicious nonetheless.

    Char grilled Iberico pork and foie gras burgers, avocado, pickled cucumber
    Chargrilled Iberico pork & foie gras burgers
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    Juicy but couldn't taste the foie gras....
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     The burger was juicy and not too dense, a tasty burger with good texture. But if you don't tell me I wouldn't know it was iberico pork, and the foie gras (which was a paste underneath the patty) was almost indiscernible.

    The avocado puree wasn't particularly special, but the pickled cucumber was a good refreshing condiment!

    Goat cheese sorbet, honeycomb, sweet walnuts
    Goat cheese sorbet, honeycomb, sweet walnuts
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     Absolutely my kind of dessert. The goaty flavor was strong enough in the sorbet which was addictive! The honeycomb was quite sticky rather than crunchy, though flavowise it was good. The walnut "gelatin" was fine. I will definitely come back for this one!

    "PBJ" peanut ice cream, blue fruit, salted peanut caramel
    "PBJ"
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     Also enjoyed this dessert which combined savory and sweet peanut flavors (in different forms) together, nicely balanced by the blue fruit sorbet

    For the first try, most dishes were well-executed and delicious. Some required a bit more featured ingredients. Overall I found 22 Ships quite promising and will come back for more.
    (以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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      2012-10-20
      等候時間
      30 分鐘 (堂食)
      人均消費
      $400 (晚餐)
      推介美食
      Housemade Sangria
      Marinated Hamachi, gazpacho dressing
      Suckling pig, roasted apple, piquillo pepper jus
      Hearty in portion, meat was juicy and tender
      Baked smoked bone marrow (marrow & meat mix)
      Chargrilled Iberico pork & foie gras burgers
      Goat cheese sorbet, honeycomb, sweet walnuts
      "PBJ"
      • Baked smoked bone marrows
      • suckling pig
      • goat cheese sorbet
      • PBJ dessert
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      Finally! A real tapas bar in Hong Kong!
      2012-10-17 17 瀏覽
      Since 22 Ships has a no reservations policy there is a waiting line, but it was worth it!. The food and service was great especially considering this was only their second day of being open. It is refreshing to have a real tapas bar with good food rather than the usual fancy restaurants you find in Hong Kong. 22 Ships shows that you don't have to have fancy surroundings or formal service to serve good food. It is small, with a very friendly ambiance, no-fuss but hip black and white decor. I
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      Since 22 Ships has a no reservations policy there is a waiting line, but it was worth it!.

      The food and service was great especially considering this was only their second day of being open. It is refreshing to have a real tapas bar with good food rather than the usual fancy restaurants you find in Hong Kong. 22 Ships shows that you don't have to have fancy surroundings or formal service to serve good food. It is small, with a very friendly ambiance, no-fuss but hip black and white decor. It is all communal/bar seating which is fun to watch the chefs prepare your food.

      Among the dishes I name, my favourites were the Spanish Breakfast (deliciously light but full of flavour), Gambas and the suckling pig which are both bound to be popular with the local diners. I am not a 'burger' person but the char grilled Iberico pork and foie gras burgers were to die for! An unusual selection of desserts which all sound really interesting but we were pretty full by then so only had the Goats Cheese sorbet with honeycomb and sweet walnuts which was a perfect end to our meal.

      I was lucky to get a seat on a day they had a 50% discount for preview dinner (only till October 17th) but even at full prices I would highly recommend this place as value to eat Michelin Star chef Jason Atherton's food is fantastic!
      Spanish Breakfast - heaven!
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      題外話/補充資料： Among the dishes I name, my favourites were the Spanish Breakfast (deliciously light but full of flavour), Gambas and the suckling pig which are both bound to be popular with the local diners. I am not a 'burger' person but the char grilled Iberico pork and foie gras burgers were to die for! An unusual selection of desserts which all sound really interesting but we were pretty full by then so only had the Goats Cheese sorbet with honeycomb and sweet walnuts which was a perfect end to our meal.
      (以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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      2012-10-16
      等候時間
      45 分鐘 (堂食)
      人均消費
      $350 (晚餐)
      推介美食
      Spanish Breakfast - heaven!
      • Spanish Breakfast with chorizo & potato; Scallop Cerviche with yuzu dressing soy cucumber and apple
      • Gambas chilli and garlic
      • Suckling pig roasted apple spices and piquillo pepper jus
      • Baked smoked Bone Marrow with onion jam and sourdough
      • Char griled Iberico pork and foie gras burgersGoats cheese sorbet honeycomb and sweet walnuts.
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      New tapas bar in town
      2012-10-17 66 瀏覽
      現今人人都說Social Media威力強大，究竟，有幾強？一間只是第一天Soft opening的餐廳，沒有飲食雜誌報導，只是透過某英文網站的Facebook專頁，與這間餐廳的飲食專頁，不斷地上載有關該店的消息。。結果，第一個營業的晚上，餐廳外面已經大排長龍。而這間餐廳，就是位於灣仔船街，由來自英國，米芝蓮餐廳Pollen Street Social的大廚Jason Atherton，主理的Tapas Bar - 22 Ships。有米芝蓮大廚坐陣，當然是一大賣點，另一樣殺著，頭三天的Soft opening，所有食物，一律半價！難怪眾人在社交網站看罷報導之後，一窩鋒擁至。所以，到今天還依賴飲食雜誌介紹的話，接收的訊息會比人慢幾拍。將此店開張的消息告知給女友，她很喜歡Tapas，一聽到新Tapas bar兼有半價優惠，晚上即刻動身過來。開業第二天晚上，還是那麼多人，差不多等上一小時才能入座。餐廳背景與上環荷李活道208 Duecento Otto，JIA Boutique Hotels 份屬同一系。這裡的前身為法式薄餅店，面積不大，客人把開三面台的吧檯，逼得水洩不通，如想吹吹風，可以
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      現今人人都說Social Media威力強大，究竟，有幾強？

      一間只是第一天Soft opening的餐廳，沒有飲食雜誌報導，只是透過某英文網站的Facebook專頁，與這間餐廳的飲食專頁，不斷地上載有關該店的消息。。

      結果，第一個營業的晚上，餐廳外面已經大排長龍。而這間餐廳，就是位於灣仔船街，由來自英國，米芝蓮餐廳Pollen Street Social的大廚Jason Atherton，主理的Tapas Bar - 22 Ships。有米芝蓮大廚坐陣，當然是一大賣點，另一樣殺著，頭三天的Soft opening，所有食物，一律半價！難怪眾人在社交網站看罷報導之後，一窩鋒擁至。所以，到今天還依賴飲食雜誌介紹的話，接收的訊息會比人慢幾拍。
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       將此店開張的消息告知給女友，她很喜歡Tapas，一聽到新Tapas bar兼有半價優惠，晚上即刻動身過來。開業第二天晚上，還是那麼多人，差不多等上一小時才能入座。

      餐廳背景與上環荷李活道208 Duecento Otto，JIA Boutique Hotels 份屬同一系。這裡的前身為法式薄餅店，面積不大，客人把開三面台的吧檯，逼得水洩不通，如想吹吹風，可以選擇面向街景的一邊，餐廳環境以黑色為主導，牆上掛著的竟是香港社運遊行的相片，與曾灶財的作品，多卻一份本土味道，那個店名22 Ships，字體帶點調皮風格，我聯想到唱片封套上，可能是一隊Indie-band的名字！
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       既然是全單半價，又看看餐牌上有甚麼選擇，有別傳統西班牙的風味，很多Tapas多多少少，滲進了點點亞洲元素在內，如生蠔配越南風味的醬汁，西班牙凍湯用來作油甘魚的Dressings，麵豉醬燒mackerel加日本芥辣牛油果等等。。

      吃Tapas的最佳朋友，大家都想到Sangria，此Sangria有點特別，為何會有氣泡？原來是混合了雪碧，然後再在杯面上打泡，頗為特別。
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       啤酒是西班牙巴塞隆拿的Estrella，是全香港第二間引入此牌子的生啤，特別之處是以冰凍的銀杯來盛之，入口更加涼快！
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       Gambas，Chilli and garlic，有別蒜片蝦，此大蝦是連殼上，配以辣椒粒，蒜粒，蝦肉豐厚，鮮甜爽口，蝦殼上的辣椒粒，蒜粒，惹味得差點連肉帶殼吞。
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       牛骨髓開邊上，也是一道Tapas，將骨內的牛骨髓，混合了牛油，鹹香中更見油潤，把它塗上薄脆多士上同吃，是牛骨髓一貫食法，骨頭下的醃洋蔥絲，酸酸甜甜，有助減骨髓的肥膩。
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       Salt and pepper squid with ink，以薄薄的炸漿包著魷魚仔，欲蓋彌彰，既香口，魷魚肉彈牙鮮甜，記得不忘沾上墨汁，味道更鮮美。
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       西班牙人熱愛蛋類菜式, 甚麼是西班牙早餐？就是煮蛋！當然，還有其他配料，有西班牙Chorizo香腸片，薯蓉，碟底更包含茄醬呢，將所有材料伴勻，香甜的蛋汁，結合香滑的薯蓉，鹹香的Chorizo，與酸甜的番茄，小小份量，大滿足。
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       鵝肝作主角的Foie Gras and sweetbread empanada，甘香油潤的鵝肝，與以餡餅包著的胰臟的組合，是非常重口味！
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       吧檯前的少女，是負責製作甜品，她向我倆介紹各甜品的特色，在六款甜品之中，選了Goat cheese sorbet，honey comb，sweet walnut。第一次吃著風格如此這麼重的雪葩，全是羊芝士的鹹味，面頭的honey comb與sweet walnut，甜中帶脆口，將鹹味的雪葩塗上一點甜。
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       另外的是PBJ，全名為Peanut ice cream，blue fruit salt pea-nut caramel。賣相佳，味道上很複雜，有花生的鹹香，紅莓，藍莓的酸，焦糖的甜，層次感極強的一道甜品。
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       22 Ships會在明天正式開業，會不會成為另一個飲食圈的熱話？會不會在下一年尾，拿取米芝蓮星級榮譽，與同一條街的Bo Innovation看齊？
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       一切想得太遠了，不過，小弟對這一條船，投下信心一票。
      (以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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