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2023-01-12 1866 瀏覽
從未試過寫食評,但今次真係好差嘅用餐體驗。首先我哋係幫襯晚市7點,侍應帶我哋入一間可坐6人嘅房就坐。我哋兩個早到10分鐘、另外有pair人準時到、剩返嗰組人,其中一個大約遲10分鐘,而佢嘅朋友成7點半先就坐。就係因為兩位遲到客人,師傅遲咗開始上菜,中間有幾個字係四個準時嘅人冇野食,睇住師傅追進度,serve返兩名遲到客人。直至佢哋追完進度,師傅先開始上壽司,嗰時已經係7:56分(因為好肚餓,同埋真係好悶,所以我係咁留意時間),感覺成個上菜節奏亂晒。食物方面係above average但又未算好好食。唔好彩地,同行人士碗湯啲蜆肉有沙、我自己碗毛蟹蒸蛋亦食到有蟹殼…特別想comment係service同專業程度。首先,serve我哋嘅Ken師傅全程冇咩同客人交流,可能因為冇其他人幫佢手,每次放低食物就咁講完個名就行返入廚房再準備。我哋同另一組客人都有問吓佢有關魚料產地、做法嘅嘢,佢都係答幾個字就完。明白師傅可能想專心工作,但我哋都想了解下自己食緊嘅嘢。其次係侍應雖然有禮同勤力加茶,但唔知點解佢keep住企喺師傅個位度serve客,令佢要烏前個身先serve到,佢件西裝褸亦多次擦落處理魚生嘅
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從未試過寫食評,但今次真係好差嘅用餐體驗。

首先我哋係幫襯晚市7點,侍應帶我哋入一間可坐6人嘅房就坐。我哋兩個早到10分鐘、另外有pair人準時到、剩返嗰組人,其中一個大約遲10分鐘,而佢嘅朋友成7點半先就坐。就係因為兩位遲到客人,師傅遲咗開始上菜,中間有幾個字係四個準時嘅人冇野食,睇住師傅追進度,serve返兩名遲到客人。直至佢哋追完進度,師傅先開始上壽司,嗰時已經係7:56分(因為好肚餓,同埋真係好悶,所以我係咁留意時間),感覺成個上菜節奏亂晒。

食物方面係above average但又未算好好食。唔好彩地,同行人士碗湯啲蜆肉有沙、我自己碗毛蟹蒸蛋亦食到有蟹殼…

特別想comment係service同專業程度。首先,serve我哋嘅Ken師傅全程冇咩同客人交流,可能因為冇其他人幫佢手,每次放低食物就咁講完個名就行返入廚房再準備。我哋同另一組客人都有問吓佢有關魚料產地、做法嘅嘢,佢都係答幾個字就完。明白師傅可能想專心工作,但我哋都想了解下自己食緊嘅嘢。

其次係侍應雖然有禮同勤力加茶,但唔知點解佢keep住企喺師傅個位度serve客,令佢要烏前個身先serve到,佢件西裝褸亦多次擦落處理魚生嘅砧板上,感覺唔多衛生。

最離奇係,入廁所時,見到成個洗手盤滿滿嘅冰粒,即刻以為自己去咗茶餐廳…

期待咗呢餐好耐,結果真係好失望,絕對冇下次
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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📍 寿し雲隠中環砵典乍街45號The Steps ‧ H Code 8樓👨🏻‍🍳: Ken 師傅臨加價前食左次lunch, 坐private room (capacity: 6pax), 由Ken師傅serve. 唔知嗰日Ken師傅係咪太忙, 除左講魚料名都冇咩交流🤣Anyway 最愛係穴子, 鯖魚棒同泡芙, 但成房人都好飽, 最後淨係弱弱地追加左個泡芙🙈 許快啲番去搵健師傅dinner, 同埋下場啲人大食啲陪我追加 🫶🏻Lunch $880 +10% 蒸蛋石斑 係我好耐冇食定點 第一件個飯酸到嚇親針魚鰤魚白蝦池魚赤貝帶子🌟 鯖魚棒 赤身醬油漬大拖羅🌟 穴子 超棉超滑 🌟 泡芙 追加x 1玉子燒麵豉湯甜品/coffee評分基於今次lunch only, 想知dinner請睇番之前嘅post- Taste: 👅👅👅1/2Service: 🌟🌟🌟Value for money: 💰💰💰Will I go again? Yes for dinner(on a scale of 0-5 emojis)
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📍 寿し雲隠
中環砵典乍街45號The Steps ‧ H Code 8樓
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👨🏻‍🍳: Ken 師傅

臨加價前食左次lunch, 坐private room (capacity: 6pax), 由Ken師傅serve. 唔知嗰日Ken師傅係咪太忙, 除左講魚料名都冇咩交流🤣
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Anyway 最愛係穴子, 鯖魚棒同泡芙, 但成房人都好飽, 最後淨係弱弱地追加左個泡芙🙈 許快啲番去搵健師傅dinner, 同埋下場啲人大食啲陪我追加 🫶🏻

Lunch $880 +10%
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蒸蛋
石斑 係我好耐冇食定點 第一件個飯酸到嚇親
針魚
鰤魚
白蝦
池魚
赤貝
帶子
🌟 鯖魚棒
赤身醬油漬
大拖羅
🌟 穴子 超棉超滑
🌟 泡芙 追加x 1
玉子燒
麵豉湯
甜品/coffee

評分基於今次lunch only, 想知dinner請睇番之前嘅post-
Taste: 👅👅👅1/2
Service: 🌟🌟🌟
Value for money: 💰💰💰
Will I go again? Yes for dinner
(on a scale of 0-5 emojis)
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2022-11-25 1361 瀏覽
無意中竟然執雞去到呢間神級予約困難店😱我個策略係…… 隨心啦!緣份黎到自然約到。朝聖之前先要做運動,由地鐵站經石板街行上去,即刻消咗幾粒脂肪。Lunch Omakase 💰$880 +10%🍣 蒸蛋🍣 魴鮄 🍣 深魚池魚🍣 鰤魚🍣 白蝦🍣 秋刀魚🍣 赤身🍣 中拖羅🍣 北寄貝🍣 竹籤魚🍣 鮫魚🍣 三文魚子海膽杯🍣 海鰻🍣 太卷🍣 玉子🍣 麵豉湯🍣 焙茶雪糕/咖啡食材係好新鮮,服務環境都滿分💯。本身做咗功課知道呢間神店嘅舍利偏酸,而我亦都鍾意酸少少嘅,不過呢間我估係我食過最酸嘅舍利,無話好唔好嘅,個人口味啦。入口每件都係享受🥰,不過師傅一打六唔知係咪太忙,無乜交流(零?),可能要食到變熟客先有交流體驗卦😅。
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無意中竟然執雞去到呢間神級予約困難店😱我個策略係…… 隨心啦!緣份黎到自然約到。


朝聖之前先要做運動,由地鐵站經石板街行上去,即刻消咗幾粒脂肪。


Lunch Omakase 💰$880 +10%


🍣 蒸蛋
🍣 魴鮄
🍣 深魚池魚
🍣 鰤魚
🍣 白蝦
🍣 秋刀魚
🍣 赤身
🍣 中拖羅
🍣 北寄貝
🍣 竹籤魚
🍣 鮫魚
🍣 三文魚子海膽杯
🍣 海鰻
🍣 太卷
🍣 玉子
🍣 麵豉湯
🍣 焙茶雪糕/咖啡


食材係好新鮮,服務環境都滿分💯。本身做咗功課知道呢間神店嘅舍利偏酸,而我亦都鍾意酸少少嘅,不過呢間我估係我食過最酸嘅舍利,無話好唔好嘅,個人口味啦。入口每件都係享受🥰,不過師傅一打六唔知係咪太忙,無乜交流(零?),可能要食到變熟客先有交流體驗卦😅。
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(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2022-10-26
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2022-11-13 2200 瀏覽
📍 寿し雲隠 (中環)中環砵典乍街45號The Steps ‧ H Code 8樓(少OC的我會迫自己喺下次visit前出左個post先 由於即將番去食lunch 所以係時候出番5月個post🤭)好彩有大神carry 今年5月終於試到健師傅嘅雲隱dinner 用餐非常愉快 食完之後 問親我omakase recommendations嘅人我都會講雲隱🤤 另外亦會繼續期待有一日食到蟹飯 (嗰晚講左10次😂) 黑殼象拔 右口魚配肝醬油北海道瀨尿蝦螢光魷魚赤魷魚櫻鱒池魚🌟 子持魷魚目光魚煙燻鰹魚毛蟹蒸蛋間八🌟 春子鯛 燒金目鯛燒太刀魚Chūtoro🌟 鮟鱇魚肝泡芙 再追加x1 ( 雲隱名物 好食到飛天!! 見大神們話個size變左 但我冇食過冇得比較haha 想知lunch係咪都會出泡芙? 🤤 )車海老紫海膽🌟 穴子🌟 太卷 (食太卷令人快樂😍)玉子燒甜品🌟 贈品 雲隱口罩一個 😂Taste: 👅👅👅👅Value for Money: 💰💰💰1/2Service: 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻Will I go again? For sure!(on a scale of 0-5 emojis)
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📍 寿し雲隠 (中環)
中環砵典乍街45號The Steps ‧ H Code 8樓
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(少OC的我會迫自己喺下次visit前出左個post先 由於即將番去食lunch 所以係時候出番5月個post🤭)

好彩有大神carry 今年5月終於試到健師傅嘅雲隱dinner 用餐非常愉快
食完之後 問親我omakase recommendations嘅人我都會講雲隱🤤 另外亦會繼續期待有一日食到蟹飯 (嗰晚講左10次😂)
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黑殼象拔 右口魚配肝醬油
北海道瀨尿蝦
螢光魷魚
赤魷魚
櫻鱒
池魚
🌟 子持魷魚
目光魚
煙燻鰹魚
毛蟹蒸蛋
間八
🌟 春子鯛
燒金目鯛
燒太刀魚
Chūtoro
🌟 鮟鱇魚肝泡芙 再追加x1 ( 雲隱名物 好食到飛天!! 見大神們話個size變左 但我冇食過冇得比較haha 想知lunch係咪都會出泡芙? 🤤 )
車海老
紫海膽
🌟 穴子
🌟 太卷 (食太卷令人快樂😍)
玉子燒
甜品

🌟 贈品 雲隱口罩一個 😂
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Taste: 👅👅👅👅
Value for Money: 💰💰💰1/2
Service: 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Will I go again? For sure!
(on a scale of 0-5 emojis)
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2022-10-30 968 瀏覽
[🇭🇰香港- 中環].🔻再訪 - 水準一貫地高質✨今季第一次食”白子” 超鮮甜又creamy, set到個standard超高😝秋刀, 甜蝦, 鯖魚棒 都係my fav 🥰健師傅即場處理當日先到 黎自北海道户井 超過180kg嘅呑拿魚; 圖1見到嘅係腹上嘅部位食左咁多次赤身, 都真係第一次食到咁重啫喱嘅口感, 師傅話係新鮮先有呢種口感 👍🏻希望快啲再俾人carry可以再訪.🔻🍽 寿し雲隠📌 地址: 中環砵典乍街45號The Steps ‧ H Code 8樓.#tummysreadyatcentral #tummysreadyforomakase #tummysreadyforjapanese #tummysreadyforsushi
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[🇭🇰香港- 中環]
.
🔻
再訪 - 水準一貫地高質✨
今季第一次食”白子” 超鮮甜又creamy, set到個standard超高😝
秋刀, 甜蝦, 鯖魚棒 都係my fav 🥰
健師傅即場處理當日先到 黎自北海道户井 超過180kg嘅呑拿魚; 圖1見到嘅係腹上嘅部位
食左咁多次赤身, 都真係第一次食到咁重啫喱嘅口感, 師傅話係新鮮先有呢種口感 👍🏻
希望快啲再俾人carry可以再訪
.
🔻
🍽 寿し雲隠
📌 地址: 中環砵典乍街45號The Steps ‧ H Code 8樓
.
#tummysreadyatcentral #tummysreadyforomakase #tummysreadyforjapanese #tummysreadyforsushi
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2022-09-22 775 瀏覽
Sushi Kumogaku🍣中環 呢間餐廳難求本身book啲時候要3個月之後先有得食 好彩有人cancel先可以早啲試食到🤩🤩今次健師傅serve嘅態度真係好好👍🏻又靚仔 食omakase當中可以見到師傅嘅刀功精湛都係幾賞心悅目🥰呢間嘅舍利偏酸小小對於我呢啲鍾意酸嘅人係幾加分 又唔會搶左魚嘅鮮味 幾有特色🐟紫海膽同海鰻都係好深刻 有驚喜 🤩🤩 最後追加嘅鮟鱇魚肝大滿足完場🥰 @sushikumogaku
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Sushi Kumogaku🍣中環

呢間餐廳難求本身book啲時候要3個月之後先有得食 好彩有人cancel先可以早啲試食到🤩🤩

今次健師傅serve嘅態度真係好好👍🏻又靚仔 食omakase當中可以見到師傅嘅刀功精湛都係幾賞心悅目🥰

呢間嘅舍利偏酸小小對於我呢啲鍾意酸嘅人係幾加分 又唔會搶左魚嘅鮮味 幾有特色🐟紫海膽同海鰻都係好深刻 有驚喜 🤩🤩 最後追加嘅鮟鱇魚肝大滿足完場🥰

@sushikumogaku
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2022-09-09 1917 瀏覽
預約困難店,托朋友的福才可以食到。多謝健師傅介紹咗好多未食過的魚類,食飯長知識😆 名不虛傳的壽司omakase,整個體驗同食材都是超高質,希望再有機會book到🥲鮟鱇魚肝泡芙是必追加,要提早預訂,真係一試難忘。好脆的泡芙裡面裝住濃濃的鮟鱇魚肝餡,肝醬味濃厚極creamy,與脆泡芙形成對比。果然名不虛傳,真心超級好味,食完立刻想再食多粒🥹毛蟹蒸蛋絕對係數一數二食過最出色的茶碗蒸,上湯都用毛蟹煮好濃好鮮,滿滿的蟹肉加上超級無敵滑溜的蛋😍壽司方面,最愛穴子即白海鰻,皮燒脆鰻魚肉質軟腍入口即溶,鰻魚脂香濃味。第一次試背拖羅,魚翅下的肉,滑身沒有根,沒有太多脂肪所以口感特別爽,魚味亦比腩位濃。這裡的壽司飯酸度會較高,個人很喜歡,特別是配較濃味的魚類好合適。Lunch omakase:北海道鹽水海膽⭐️燒帆立貝毛蟹蒸蛋⭐️刺身: 4日熟成真魚、響螺壽司:白魷魚⭐️池魚北寄貝白蝦⭐️瀨尿蝦胡麻鯖魚車海老⭐️赤鯥魚 (喉黑魚)⭐️中拖羅背拖羅⭐️穴子(白海鰻)⭐️海膽鮟鱇魚肝泡芙⭐️手卷玉子焙茶雪糕
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預約困難店,托朋友的福才可以食到。多謝健師傅介紹咗好多未食過的魚類,食飯長知識😆 名不虛傳的壽司omakase,整個體驗同食材都是超高質,希望再有機會book到🥲
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鮟鱇魚肝泡芙是必追加,要提早預訂,真係一試難忘。好脆的泡芙裡面裝住濃濃的鮟鱇魚肝餡,肝醬味濃厚極creamy,與脆泡芙形成對比。果然名不虛傳,真心超級好味,食完立刻想再食多粒🥹
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毛蟹蒸蛋絕對係數一數二食過最出色的茶碗蒸,上湯都用毛蟹煮好濃好鮮,滿滿的蟹肉加上超級無敵滑溜的蛋😍
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壽司方面,最愛穴子即白海鰻,皮燒脆鰻魚肉質軟腍入口即溶,鰻魚脂香濃味。第一次試背拖羅,魚翅下的肉,滑身沒有根,沒有太多脂肪所以口感特別爽,魚味亦比腩位濃。這裡的壽司飯酸度會較高,個人很喜歡,特別是配較濃味的魚類好合適。
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Lunch omakase:
北海道鹽水海膽⭐️
燒帆立貝
毛蟹蒸蛋⭐️
刺身: 4日熟成真魚、響螺
壽司:
白魷魚⭐️
池魚
北寄貝
白蝦⭐️
瀨尿蝦
胡麻鯖魚
車海老⭐️
赤鯥魚 (喉黑魚)⭐️
中拖羅
背拖羅⭐️
穴子(白海鰻)⭐️
海膽
鮟鱇魚肝泡芙⭐️
手卷
玉子
焙茶雪糕
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(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2022-08-04
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人均消費
$1800 (午餐)
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2
0
2022-08-17 849 瀏覽
平日 中午時間帶子蒸蛋 深海池魚 青檸皮碎章紅角 (間八)馳魚燒金目鯛白蝦燒竹簽魚北寄貝油漬赤身中拖煮既帶子 鹽水海膽骨鑑鰻魚壽司太卷玉子燒帶子茶碗蒸 第一碟感覺差啲 帶子蒸熟得滯由最淡味的深海池魚配青檸皮開始章紅魚 🍣最吸引我嘅係師傅既刀功到池魚 同池海池係兩種咪道灼燒金目鯛係第一次咁樣食 佢個皮燒得好香白蝦 ⋯⋯ 我就生蝦一般般 但聽聞話比較少見竹簽魚 原來便魚做到咁樣口感北寄貝 真係完全改觀吞拿魚就一樣既好好食吞拿魚😂鹽水海膽軍艦 我留意到係佢塊紫菜 味道好出🤭鰻魚壽司 佢係用味霖同soyu煮 新既其他嘢都正正常常🤭呢餐開心🥳大滿足既 如果最尾黎多個澱粉質多少少嘅就近好
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平日 中午時間

帶子蒸蛋
深海池魚 青檸皮碎
章紅角 (間八)
馳魚
燒金目鯛
白蝦
燒竹簽魚
北寄貝
油漬赤身
中拖
煮既帶子
鹽水海膽骨鑑
鰻魚壽司
太卷
玉子燒


帶子茶碗蒸 第一碟感覺差啲 帶子蒸熟得滯
由最淡味的深海池魚配青檸皮開始
章紅魚 🍣最吸引我嘅係師傅既刀功
到池魚 同池海池係兩種咪道
灼燒金目鯛係第一次咁樣食 佢個皮燒得好香
白蝦 ⋯⋯ 我就生蝦一般般 但聽聞話比較少見
竹簽魚 原來便魚做到咁樣口感
北寄貝 真係完全改觀
吞拿魚就一樣既好好食吞拿魚😂
鹽水海膽軍艦 我留意到係佢塊紫菜 味道好出🤭
鰻魚壽司 佢係用味霖同soyu煮 新既
其他嘢都正正常常🤭
呢餐開心🥳大滿足既
如果最尾黎多個澱粉質多少少嘅就近好
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(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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100
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2022-07-13 1067 瀏覽
全靠朋友book到終於可以一試雲隱❣️樣樣野都好好味呀👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻Ken師傅亦好健談而且每樣野都介紹得好詳細呀👨🏻‍🍳仲有個鮟鱇魚肝泡芙果然係名不虛傳😋下次要再去試埋蟹飯先得🦀🍚✨🥄 蒓菜配紫海膽 ✨醒胃、蒓菜口感爽脆🔥 炭燒北海道子持瀨尿蝦 ✨裡面好多春好香🐙 櫻煮八爪魚 ✨外層軟、內層爽滑🔥 稻燻鰹魚 ✨燻香濃郁、外皮焦脆、魚肉鮮嫩🍽 赤鮑魚+黑鮑魚 配肝醬 ✨肉厚嫩滑、赤黑各有特色🔥 鹽燒赤鯥魚 ✨香味十足❕肉質超嫩滑🍣 紫鳥貝壽司 ✨鮮甜爽脆好好味呀🍣 北海道希海極上海膽壽司 ✨濃厚鮮甜🧁 鮟鱇魚肝泡芙 ✨好特別❕好好味❕好滿足❕
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全靠朋友book到終於可以一試雲隱❣️
樣樣野都好好味呀👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Ken師傅亦好健談而且每樣野都介紹得好詳細呀👨🏻‍🍳
仲有個鮟鱇魚肝泡芙果然係名不虛傳😋
下次要再去試埋蟹飯先得🦀🍚✨

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🥄 蒓菜配紫海膽 ✨醒胃、蒓菜口感爽脆
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🔥 炭燒北海道子持瀨尿蝦 ✨裡面好多春好香
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🐙 櫻煮八爪魚 ✨外層軟、內層爽滑
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🔥 稻燻鰹魚 ✨燻香濃郁、外皮焦脆、魚肉鮮嫩
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🍽 赤鮑魚+黑鮑魚 配肝醬 ✨肉厚嫩滑、赤黑各有特色
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🔥 鹽燒赤鯥魚 ✨香味十足❕肉質超嫩滑
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🍣 紫鳥貝壽司 ✨鮮甜爽脆好好味呀
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🍣 北海道希海極上海膽壽司 ✨濃厚鮮甜
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🧁 鮟鱇魚肝泡芙 ✨好特別❕好好味❕好滿足❕
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(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2022-06-28 1476 瀏覽
There are a few sushi restaurants in town that had been called ‘impossible to book’. And Sushi Kumogaku is one of them. Since dinner service was re-opened, I had tried for so many times that I simply lost count. Already half given up, couple of weeks ago I browsed the booking site again, and could not believe my eyes to see there was an opening for two! So in the fastest possible way I made reservation and paid the deposit to secure the seats.Located in H Code on Pottinger Street Central, the re
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There are a few sushi restaurants in town that had been called ‘impossible to book’. And Sushi Kumogaku is one of them. Since dinner service was re-opened, I had tried for so many times that I simply lost count. Already half given up, couple of weeks ago I browsed the booking site again, and could not believe my eyes to see there was an opening for two! So in the fastest possible way I made reservation and paid the deposit to secure the seats.
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Located in H Code on Pottinger Street Central, the restaurant was led by Executive Chef Kin, who had worked under the famous Mori Tomoaki for many years before starting his business. Seated at the far end of the beautiful hinoki 12-seat counter, there was an elegant traditional Japanese ambience, from the sliding doors, art pieces, to the wooden ceiling, creating a cozy and comfortable dining experience.
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There was only one Omakase Menu ($2,500) and I also ordered a bottle of sake to pair. The Sharaku Junmai-ginjo Natsugin-Usunigori 冩樂 純米吟醸 夏吟うすにごり ($880) was the limited edition for summer season, freshly made last month. I liked the delicate taste and refreshing fruity note, with also acidity to lighten the palate.
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For the starter we were served the Murasaki-Uni 紫雲丹 and Junsai 莼菜. The purple sea urchin was very good, with a clean and mild taste while the watershield was a type of crunchy water vegetable, coated with unique slippery, gelatinous substance, with light flavours. Together with the vinegar sauce, it was very refreshing and a great appetizer to start the meal.
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The second course was Madai 真鯛, paired with a sour sauce added with some small pieces of the fish skin. The Japanese sea bream came from Awaji Island in Seto Inland Sea, arriving HK just that morning so super fresh. Chef Kin cut the sashimi very thin, translucent to the light, and recommended us to put a piece of the fish skin inside before rolling up to dip in the vinegar sauce. It had a great bite, while delicate, it did not mean lacking of flavours by any means.
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The third course was Shako 蝦蛄. The chefs took some charcoals from the kitchen to put into the tabletop ceramic grill, before putting the Hokkaido mantis shrimps to lightly reheat the shell, giving out great aromas that started our mouths watering. The restaurant also only picked the female ones to serve. Removing the shell and then cutting in halves, the mantis shrimp had a sweet taste, with plenty of roes as well. Enjoying all its original flavours, it was a fantastic piece.
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Beginning with the first sushi, the Meichidai 目一鯛 was a first-time experience. The gray large-eye bream got its name because of a dark strip from the eye down to the mouth. A rare fish even for restaurants in Japan, it was best in summer season, with a sweet taste with refined texture. I also liked how the chef prepared the shari, with the slight acidity of the sushi rice highly appealing to the palate. A must-try if having the opportunity.
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The second sushi was Aka-Ika 赤烏賊. Chef Kin had meticulously cut on the flesh of the neon flying squid to break the fibre, but without cutting it through. A treat to see his knife skill in the process. The squid as a result was very tender and soft, almost to the point of melting in the mouth. With a sweet taste, this might not be an expensive ingredient but he transformed it into a prized piece.
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The third sushi was Shima-Aji 縞鯵. The wild, in-season striped jack mackerel had been marinated in soy sauce for a while, infusing the flesh with nice umami characters on top of its delicate taste, as well as having good fat content, making it much rounder and plump on the palate than the farmed ones I had tried in many other restaurants.
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The fourth course was Tako 章魚, with the chefs taking out a bowl with a few tentacles of octopus that had been nicely braised. Cutting out a few sections to serve, on the bite it was so tender and soft you would not believe it was tentacles, with some Japanese pepper powder dusted on top to give a bit of spicy fragrance to the nice umami taste infused into the tentacles from the broth. Another wonderful piece.
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While we were enjoying, Chef Kin's assistant was busy trimming a piece of Katsuo 鰹 before skewering it. Chef Kin then took over, bringing the fillet to the kitchen to smoke over hay. Through the glass partition we could see how he controlled the degree of smokiness, covering the fillet with lid for a while to increase the aromas but avoid over-burning it.
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The result was another fantastic course. Chef Kin then cut a few slices from the skipjack tuna and added some freshly chopped menegi on top, brushing with some ginger soy sauce. The harmony of fragrance between the spring onion sprouts and the smoky fumes was amazing, and I was also impressed he could maintain the smokiness and other flavours in such perfect balance. Very good indeed.
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The fifth course was Chawanmushi 茶碗蒸, with the silky soft steamed egg having nice umami notes from the dashi mixed into the egg. Inside the egg custard was also plenty of Kegani 毛蟹, with the delicate and sweet horsehair crab meat adding to the flavours, so good that we scooped to the last drop of egg.
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Returning to the sushi, the fourth piece was Kasugo 春子鯛. The young sea bream was always my favourite because of its wonderfully soft texture, with its leaner mouthfeel not feeling dry in any way because of the abundance of fish oil. A piece I would like to encore for sure.
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The fifth sushi was Tokishirazu 時不知, with the wild chum salmon a seasonal delicacy in May/Jun that we were glad to see showing up in more restaurants in HK nowadays. On the appearance, it had a nice shiny sheen. On the bite, it was soft and tender, without any fishy note often found in other types of salmon. Another wonderful piece.
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Then the chefs took out a large bowl which contained several Awabi 鮑, with the black abalone still steaming hot. Cutting some thick pieces, Chef Kin added some special abalone liver sauce on top. The abalone was very tender, biting through without effort, seeping with its great flavours. The sauce made the abalone even more appealing with its creamy, rich umami taste. And we all asked the chef to provide a bit of shari so we could finish all the sauce.
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Serving the seventh course now, in fact we had been looking at the dried Sawara 鰆 being grilled in the kitchen for a while before they were brought out to cut into pieces. Chef Kin explained that the fish was marinated with a sake sauce prepared with the innards of the small Japanese Spanish mackerel to strengthen the umami taste. Nicely grilled, a perfect companion for beer and sake.
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After preparing the different cuts of the tuna, Chef Kin neatly put them on the wooden board to show us. The tuna came from Hokkaido Uchiura Bay, and I was particularly interested in the Akami Zuke 赤身. The chef had used hot water to lightly blanch the surface of the lean tuna, allowing the surface to contract to retain the flavours and juice inside better, before marinated in soy sauce. I found that the tuna as a result was not as salty and dominated by the soy sauce flavours, with the original taste of the tuna more pronounced. An interesting and clever technique, it was the first time I heard of that.
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The second part of the tuna trio was Chutoro 中とろ. My favourite cut of the tuna, this medium fatty tuna had the perfect mix of lean and fat proportion in my opinion, and the amount of fish oil not too dominant to overwhelm the other flavours including the umami taste from the soy sauce. A rewarding piece.
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Finishing the trio with Otoro 大とろ, it was a wonder especially for fans who like the aromatic and intense fish oil seeping when biting through the silky soft, melt-in-the-mouth fatty tuna. I liked that it was not so extreme like eating a piece of fat, testimony again to the effort Chef Kin spent picking the best ingredients to serve his customers.
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Already having eight pieces of sushi, we were served Akamutsu 赤鯥. The prized rosy seabass was beautifully grilled, with the heat vitalizing the abundance of fish oil. Even after the otoro, this fish was holding up with its fat content, and the chef had paired with some nagaimo, marinated with wasabi, to freshen up and help to balance the palate.
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Seeing Chef Kin took out the torigai and cutting off the adductor muscle and skirt portion, he then shredded some cucumber before making a Kabashira 貝柱 Roll. The muscle of the Japanese cockle was crunchy and sweet, matching well with the cucumber, and this roll was a good way to cleanse our palate before transitioning to the other courses.
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Then came another of my all-time favourite sushi, Kuruma-Ebi 車海老. The Japanese tiger prawn was just poached and while still steaming hot, so when the assistant removed the shell, it was truly painful to see how his hands need to withstand the heat. However, the results were fantastic, with the prawn so sweet and having a nice, firm bite. A candidate to encore for sure.
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Returning to Torigai 鳥貝, Chef Kin further trimmed the pieces of the Japanese cockle, then smashing it onto the board to loosen the muscle before making the sushi. The clean taste and sweetness, coupled with the crunchy texture on the bite made this seasonal ingredient one of my picks for clams.
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Next was a signature for the restaurant. Taking out some puffs from the kitchen, they were toasted lightly to warm it up, before filling with mashed Ankimo 鮟肝. The creamy and savoury monkfish liver had been added with some finely chopped takuan, to give some crunchy pieces to increase the complexity on texture. Great in flavours, the contrast of the cold filling with the warm puff also brought in additional enjoyment. No wonder a few of the other customers immediately asked for an encore before even finishing the piece.
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Coming to the twelfth sushi, the chef showed us the Bafun-Uni 馬糞雲丹, coming from Hokkaido Rishiri. Instead of using the nori sheet to wrap a gunkan, Chef Kin directly prepared the sea urchin on shari with a perfect shape, another example of his sushi skills. The sea urchin was creamy and sweet in taste as well.
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Coming to the end of the sushi, the Anago 穴子, or conger eel, was very soft and truly melted in the mouth even before biting. With the sweetness and savoury of the thick eel sauce adding the flavours, the feeling of fulfillment and satisfaction was remarkable.
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The Tamago 卵 was fluffy, with the note from a delicate dashi used to mix with the egg, aiming to highlight the original flavours of the egg but avoid the umami of the broth overpowering the overall taste. 
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But wait, how could I skip some of the other ingredients? Asking Chef Kin what he got which we did not yet try, I picked three additional pieces. Starting with Nishin 鯑 ($140), the Pacific herring was not commonly served in sushi. Chef Kin explained that this were smaller ones, similar in size with sardines. With a rather unique, but pleasant taste, the fish had quite fatty taste which was worth trying out if you happen to come across.
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The second additional piece was Shiro-Ebi 白海老 ($160). The baby white shrimps were very soft on the bite, but unfortunately lacking the sweetness I would expect from this delicacy. Not sure whether it was not in season or other reason, but apparently this was also why the chef did not serve this on the night.
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The last piece added was Kanpyo Maki 干瓢巻 ($120). The classic dried gourd roll was prepared with shreds of marinated gourd and shari on a piece of nori sheet, before rolling and cutting into sections. A way to fill out the stomach but also to help cleanse the palate, the chef had warned us beforehand that he would put a bit more wasabi and was in fact quite spicy. But still a nice one for wrapping up the meal.
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Finishing all the sushi it was time for the soup. The Red Miso Soup was tasty, with the stronger flavours of the red miso permeating through the dashi broth, offering nice umami notes and warming the stomach, with the large clam and kombu nicely complementary.
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The dessert included a slice of Melon and Warabi Mochi, with the melon very juicy and sweet, and the mochi chewy. By this time, the customer sitting next to me was already drunk and could not even finish the dessert, as he had been trying different sakes throughout the night and consumed quite a lot.

The overall atmosphere was great, with the staff and the chefs interacting with us frequently to explain the ingredients and having casual conversations. We inevitably chatted about how difficult to make reservation, and they shared with us the secrets to make booking. The bill was $6,570 including all the additional sushi and sake, and considering the overall experience, it is definitely one of the sushi restaurant I would recommend. I just hope it would not be as difficult to book as winning Mark 6.
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2022-06-25
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Yums 予約極度困難omakase 人均消費:$680(外賣)總結:必定要試————————————————————————呢間omakase出名難book,除非有大神carry.🥹我地book唔到又執唔到雞嘅嗌個外賣過下口癮都開心.今次揀左太卷去野餐,睇下成件事幾靚仔!除左太卷本人之外,仲會有埋酸薑同埋麵豉湯. 酸薑好好食🥹🥹🥹太卷用料好豐富,而且飯同每種配料嘅配搭好平衡,食到蝦嘅鮮味同埋軟綿綿嘅鰻魚,仲有我最鍾意嘅干瓢😋兩個人share真係唔夠喉.食完個太卷令我更加想book到位.而家每一日都會上佢個website睇下每日運程😂希望終有一日可以喺度出到一個堂食嘅sharing.🥹******************************寿し雲隠 (中環)中環砵典乍街45號The Steps ‧ H Code 8樓
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Yums

[寿し雲隠]

予約極度困難omakase


人均消費:$680(外賣)
總結:必定要試


————————————————————————

呢間omakase出名難book,除非有大神carry.🥹我地book唔到又執唔到雞嘅嗌個外賣過下口癮都開心.


今次揀左太卷去野餐,睇下成件事幾靚仔!除左太卷本人之外,仲會有埋酸薑同埋麵豉湯. 酸薑好好食🥹🥹🥹


太卷用料好豐富,而且飯同每種配料嘅配搭好平衡,食到蝦嘅鮮味同埋軟綿綿嘅鰻魚,仲有我最鍾意嘅干瓢😋兩個人share真係唔夠喉.


食完個太卷令我更加想book到位.而家每一日都會上佢個website睇下每日運程😂希望終有一日可以喺度出到一個堂食嘅sharing.🥹


******************************

寿し雲隠 (中環)
中環砵典乍街45號The Steps ‧ H Code 8樓

太卷
$680
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(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
張貼
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味道
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2022-05-27 769 瀏覽
我們在討論日本料理的時候總有一種迷思,本地食客潛意識裡覺得日本師傅水準一定高於本地師傅。這是一種完全沒有依據的主觀臆斷。香港有許多優秀的本地西餐廚師,在日本也有許多優秀的本地西餐或中餐廚師,為什麼說起日本料理就玩起血統論了呢?烹飪的門檻有多高完全在於一個人嘗試跨越它的努力有多大,當一個廚師全身心投入一門料理的鑽研和學習之後,國籍和出身根本不是問題。不過外來的和尚好念經,本地食客容易被外國主廚忽悠地團團轉而不自知呢!疫情前我每月都去日本拜訪各類餐廳,因此在港吃日本料理較少,除了幾家常去的,從不進行新嘗試。直到這三年外遊無望,唯有在香港一解對日本料理的相思。在中環H Code有間開業一年有餘的壽司店寿し雲隠(Sushi Kumogaku),投資人是我朋友,他知我從不寫鱔稿,還怕我不吃本地師傅的壽司,戰戰兢兢請我去嘗試。其實我根本不信血統論,只要對日本料理的理解到位,技法過硬,便能做出美味來。去了幾次真心覺得越來越好,於是便將這兒當成了我的壽司飯堂之一。原先此店主廚是中日混血的森智昭,店名叫「Mori」,後來他離開餐廳自立門戶,於是副廚陳永健年紀輕輕便接手了這家店,並改名為「寿し雲隠」,取的
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我們在討論日本料理的時候總有一種迷思,本地食客潛意識裡覺得日本師傅水準一定高於本地師傅。這是一種完全沒有依據的主觀臆斷。香港有許多優秀的本地西餐廚師,在日本也有許多優秀的本地西餐或中餐廚師,為什麼說起日本料理就玩起血統論了呢?烹飪的門檻有多高完全在於一個人嘗試跨越它的努力有多大,當一個廚師全身心投入一門料理的鑽研和學習之後,國籍和出身根本不是問題。不過外來的和尚好念經,本地食客容易被外國主廚忽悠地團團轉而不自知呢!

疫情前我每月都去日本拜訪各類餐廳,因此在港吃日本料理較少,除了幾家常去的,從不進行新嘗試。直到這三年外遊無望,唯有在香港一解對日本料理的相思。在中環H Code有間開業一年有餘的壽司店寿し雲隠(Sushi Kumogaku),投資人是我朋友,他知我從不寫鱔稿,還怕我不吃本地師傅的壽司,戰戰兢兢請我去嘗試。其實我根本不信血統論,只要對日本料理的理解到位,技法過硬,便能做出美味來。去了幾次真心覺得越來越好,於是便將這兒當成了我的壽司飯堂之一。

原先此店主廚是中日混血的森智昭,店名叫「Mori」,後來他離開餐廳自立門戶,於是副廚陳永健年紀輕輕便接手了這家店,並改名為「寿し雲隠」,取的是「大隱隱於市」之意。店面在H Code低座的八樓,沿著石板街上去,或者從荷里活道大館附近下幾步石階就到了。初來不甚好找,還真有點低調行事的感覺。

熟客都親切地叫主廚為健師傅,雖然年紀輕,按資歷卻已是個「老」師傅了。在壽司這個行當他摸爬滾打了近十年,他對日本料理的熱情非一般人可媲美。他不僅工作勤奮,業餘時間還自學日語和大量閱讀各類料理及日本飲食文化方面的書籍,對壽司流派淵源及傳承了然於心,對一些折射在飲食上的文化細節亦研究到位。

比如捲壽司按照大小分为太卷(太巻き)和細卷(細巻き),最常見的太卷壽司是海苔卷,顧名思義即外層以海苔包裹醋飯及各類食材的壽司卷。製作海苔卷的時候,每一家店都有自己的食材搭配,並無絕對定法。有些店以金槍魚聞名,便會做純金槍魚肉的太卷,大部分的店則會加入多種食材,組成食材豐富、味道複合的太卷。當然有些店為了節省食材,會巧妙地把剩餘食材做進太卷裡,比如星鰻(穴子)的尾段、鮑魚邊等。

在日本,最有名的太卷是節分日食用的惠方卷(恵方巻き),這種壽司卷起源於大阪,如今已全國普及,成為許多壽司店太卷的藍本。惠方卷裡有醃葫蘆(幹瓢)、黃瓜、伊達卷(一種出汁雞蛋卷)、星鰻或鰻魚、蝦肉鬆(朧)、日本對蝦(車海老)及煮香菇(椎茸),對應著日本神話中的七福神。健師傅做的太卷便是在惠方卷的基礎上製作的,在香港偷工減料和不按章法什么都加的太卷比比皆是,不放香菇的一大堆,還有放入過鹹明太子的……而寿し雲隠的太卷最週全得體且美味平衡。

一些壽司店為了迎合本地食客的口味,常做些口味突兀的融合菜,比如麻婆白子就是一例。這道菜放在居酒屋是很不錯的,但在高級壽司店則十分不合適,因為麻辣味會破壞品嚐壽司時的味覺平衡。健師傅希望給食客帶來更多真正符合日本味覺的時令菜式。比如最近吃到的抱籽槍烏賊(子持ち槍烏賊)便是一例。這道菜需將兩隻烏賊的籽釀入一隻烏賊裡,並用原汁熬成醬配搭,入口便感覺到鮮甜,而綿密的烏賊籽包裹著舌尖將鮮味細細釋放,讓人欲罷不能。

當然健師傅也善於做出創新,只不過都是在和諧平衡的味覺體驗內的。比如雲隱廣受讚譽的小菜鮟鱇魚肝菠萝包就是將本地飲食文化與日本味道相結合的範例。這道菜需要選擇顏色紅潤、油分較足和鮮度高的日本鮟鱇魚肝,排除血水就需要一天時間,煮製後還需要浸泡一天。鮟鱇魚肝配醃漬小西瓜(奈良漬け)是常見搭配,健師傅將切得細碎的醃漬小西瓜混入細致過篩的鮟鱇魚肝醬中,再注入具有香港風情的菠蘿包脆殼裡。鮟鱇魚肝醬特意低溫儲藏,為的是模擬霜淇淋的口感,而脆殼則是新鮮出爐。一脆一潤,一熱一冷,兩口吃完的小菜竟可在口感、味道和溫度三個層面達到如此高的完成度,令人驚喜。

壽司是醋飯的藝術,每貫不變的是醋飯,輪番上來與之搭配的是題材,因此千萬不可本末倒置——一家壽司店的立足之本在於醋飯。

雲隱的醋飯個性十足,主要體現在煮飯的熟度及調味用的醋上。雲隱用的是陳年魚沼越光米,調味用的是金將和與兵衛兩款赤醋和千鳥一款米醋。在視覺上,這裡的醋飯成赤棕色;換飯的時候可以聞到明顯的酒粕香;味覺上首先突出酸味,其次帶出恰當的鹹味,回味則是米的淡淡甜味。口感上健師傅的醋飯黏度較低,是粒粒分明的風格。這樣的醋飯與大多數題材都可找到契合點,而與熟成後的白身魚、醃漬過的銀皮魚、味道突出的紅身魚,以及油脂較重的食材尤為和諧。

應該說雲隱的醋飯是有欣賞門檻的,但只要食客明白其中的妙處便會覺得其他一些毫無個性的壽司店簡直乏味至極。

白身魚和銀皮魚(光り物)的處理非常考驗壽司師傅的功力,其中又以「江户前」的代表食材窩斑鰶的處理為最關鍵。無論是幼年的新子,亦或稍大的小肌都是我非常喜歡的食材,但在香港卻較少吃到。剛上市的「初物」往往價格高昂,去年新子一度去到兩萬港幣一公斤,而處理起來又十分麻煩,如果處理不當又腥又柴,味同嚼蠟。本地食客更喜歡金槍魚大腹或海膽一類直白的美味,所以許多壽司店索性就跳過了這一重要食材。

不過健師傅是處理銀皮魚的高手,有一次在雲隱吃到一貫十分驚豔的小肌,脫水度恰到好處,清新的前調配合味道豐腴的油脂香氣,與他性格突出的醋飯搭配在一起簡直驚為天人,是久違的美味小肌體驗。我問他是如何處理這小肌的,他大致說了下過程,無外乎就是鹽糖醃漬脫水後,用醋水洗淨,再用混合醋來醃製,狀態到位後就撈出放到竹篩上晾乾,讓醋繼續透入魚身,之後放入冰箱靜置三五天就可以了。聽上去十分輕鬆簡單,實際上卻困難重重,因為從新子開始,窩斑鰶的狀態變化是按天計算的,所以每天拿到的魚狀態都會不同,需要靈活調整鹽醋量和醃漬時間,這需要反覆練習才能準確掌握,背後所花費的精力和時間不敢想像。

據說雲隱的經營策略是維持較高的食材成本,將最好的食材與最合適的處理手法結合,立志為客人帶來不同的壽司體驗。星鰻當造時,我在社交媒體上常看到日本著名供货商ウエケン(Ueken)發顶級星鰻的入貨照片,其中幾乎每天都有雲隱的身影,而香港其他壽司店幾乎沒有出現過。健師傅處理星鰻真是有一手,別說毫無土腥味這種入門級要求了。他的星鰻糯軟鮮香,回味無窮,與粒粒分明的醋飯最為相配。這無疑是我在香港吃過最好的星鰻壽司了。


這裡的日本對蝦鮮活肥碩,為保證鮮美和溫度,每次只煮四隻。身體中央保持半生狀態,一入口鮮味爆出,口感爽脆,無怪乎那麼多客人都覺得是香港第一的車蝦壽司。而金槍魚和海膽就更不用多言,雲隱是香港為數不多常用石司金槍魚的壽司店,根據魚的品質,健師傅也會選用其他供應商的。石司是豐洲市場著名的頂級金槍魚中盤商,他們並不售賣品質一般的漁獲。


而海膽則每一季都有特別的品種,一些小眾的產地和品種總會帶來大路貨無法製造的驚喜。比如最近吃到淡路島由良紫海膽,單片體積不大,但鮮味突出,還有顯著的熱帶水果香氣,竟有點像夏日的赤海膽,是我喜歡的味道。

健師傅還在技法的上升期,與日本名店大師相比,自然有諸多需要提高的地方。但是我相信勤奮的他必將更上一層樓,雲隱未來可期,希望每一次去都可有新的收穫。
太卷
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子持ち槍烏賊
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(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
張貼
評分
味道
環境
服務
衛生
抵食
用餐日期
2022-02-16
用餐途徑
堂食
人均消費
$2500 (晚餐)
推介美食
太卷
子持ち槍烏賊
鮟鱇魚肝菠萝包
等級4
547
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2022-05-06 896 瀏覽
Lunch at 12pm.First to arrive. Greeter was so excited to show us to our seats that she slapped the doorway curtain right onto my face. Counter seating 10.Got shown to the seats right at the edge by the wall. PickyEater requested to be seated more to the middle. Chef acceded to request.1 private room (PickyEater overheard that currently no chef was available to serve in the private room.)PickyEater explained that everyone was so keen to eat here cos mori San was the chef in the beginning. However
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Lunch at 12pm.
First to arrive. Greeter was so excited to show us to our seats that she slapped the doorway curtain right onto my face.
Counter seating 10.
Got shown to the seats right at the edge by the wall. PickyEater requested to be seated more to the middle. Chef acceded to request.
1 private room (PickyEater overheard that currently no chef was available to serve in the private room.)
PickyEater explained that everyone was so keen to eat here cos mori San was the chef in the beginning. However mori San has left since, leaving the reins in the hands of his no.1 apprentice Chef Kin.
Our lunch set comprised of 12 pieces of sushi. Here’s what we had.
Steamed egg
雞魚
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Kanpachi (間八)
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白蝦
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池魚
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北寄貝, flamed with a twist of lime. 👍🏼
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Sakura trout- in season. My favorite piece.
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鯖魚- nice touch with the band of umami flavor on top.
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Perhaps chef was too busy receiving the torrent of praise from the ladies sitting next to us to notice this thin bone.
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毛蟹
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Chu toro
Otoro
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Uni
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太卷
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Soup and tamago.
Green tea ice cream as dessert.
In summary: call me an unreasonable bxxxx but I will never return to a sushi joint that gives me bones as souvenirs. Excellent service tho. Kept refilling my hot water.
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2022-04-09 983 瀏覽
📍Sushi KumogakuThanks to the dinner ban, a lot of places introduced their early dinner session and I got to try out Sushi Kumogaku. Maybe it’s because we had the sous chef, everything was rather normal (?) I liked the thick cut squid and the puff was special. The 白子 had a very fluffy marshmallow texture but I can’t handle it without any seasoning at all. Will have to give it another try if I can get a seat with Kin sifu. Price: HK$2800 ppRevisit: 7/10
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📍Sushi Kumogaku

Thanks to the dinner ban, a lot of places introduced their early dinner session and I got to try out Sushi Kumogaku.

Maybe it’s because we had the sous chef, everything was rather normal (?)

I liked the thick cut squid and the puff was special. The 白子 had a very fluffy marshmallow texture but I can’t handle it without any seasoning at all.

Will have to give it another try if I can get a seat with Kin sifu.

Price: HK$2800 pp

Revisit: 7/10

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(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2022-04-08 2618 瀏覽
繼續發掘鮨店,這天來到壽司雲隱。店子不大,貫徹日本店喜歡用木色的設計,大概可以坐10位客人,兩三位師傅在場外打點,另外也有玻璃廚房,可以看到入面師傅燒魚的情景。我喜歡這家店的茶杯,有一種古樸的風格。清潔完雙手之後開始等吃。蒸蛋 第一款上的食品是茶碗蒸,入面的餡料有冬菇、雞肉等等,味道是柚子味的,我比較少吃柚子味的蒸蛋,帶少許清香微酸,蒸蛋也滑溜,正好開開胃,不錯。在開始上壽司之前,師傅先給我們一碟薑,是我喜歡的粒粒薑,證明是師傅自己醃製的,味道酸酸甜甜。真鯛第一件上的是真鯛,魚肉清淡,作為第一件上的壽司套路正確,是給客人有淡吃到濃的前奏,可惜配合的赤醋飯酸味重,而且份量多,飯與魚料的比例並不平衡,魚肉在這裏的味道大部份都被赤醋飯蓋過了,咀嚼到後來口中的餘韻全是酸味。鰤魚第二件是鰤魚,鰤魚油份重,魚味濃郁,雖然赤操飯仍然是過多及酸,但因為鰤魚魚油充足,平衡就相對做得較好。這件能夠享受到魚肉的鮮味及油脂,好吃。秋刀魚所有魚類中我比較偏愛銀皮魚,秋刀魚乃其中之一。果然,這一貫秋刀魚超級好味,油脂層厚實,入口即化,魚味濃郁,鮮味在口中爆發,一點腥味也沒有,令人回味無窮。富山灣白蝦 薑蓉下一貫是
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繼續發掘鮨店,這天來到壽司雲隱。
店子不大,貫徹日本店喜歡用木色的設計,大概可以坐10位客人,兩三位師傅在場外打點,另外也有玻璃廚房,可以看到入面師傅燒魚的情景。
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我喜歡這家店的茶杯,有一種古樸的風格。清潔完雙手之後開始等吃。
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蒸蛋
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第一款上的食品是茶碗蒸,入面的餡料有冬菇、雞肉等等,味道是柚子味的,我比較少吃柚子味的蒸蛋,帶少許清香微酸,蒸蛋也滑溜,正好開開胃,不錯。
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在開始上壽司之前,師傅先給我們一碟薑,是我喜歡的粒粒薑,證明是師傅自己醃製的,味道酸酸甜甜。
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真鯛
第一件上的是真鯛,魚肉清淡,作為第一件上的壽司套路正確,是給客人有淡吃到濃的前奏,可惜配合的赤醋飯酸味重,而且份量多,飯與魚料的比例並不平衡,魚肉在這裏的味道大部份都被赤醋飯蓋過了,咀嚼到後來口中的餘韻全是酸味。
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鰤魚
第二件是鰤魚,鰤魚油份重,魚味濃郁,雖然赤操飯仍然是過多及酸,但因為鰤魚魚油充足,平衡就相對做得較好。這件能夠享受到魚肉的鮮味及油脂,好吃。
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秋刀魚
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所有魚類中我比較偏愛銀皮魚,秋刀魚乃其中之一。
果然,這一貫秋刀魚超級好味,油脂層厚實,入口即化,魚味濃郁,鮮味在口中爆發,一點腥味也沒有,令人回味無窮。
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富山灣白蝦 薑蓉
下一貫是富山灣白蝦配薑蓉,蝦肉甜美,帶着微微的彈性,當然美中不足仍然是赤醋飯味道太酸及份量太大,輕淡的白蝦甜味被蓋過了很多,而且不知為何這件白蝦帶着微苦,實在奇怪。
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竹簽魚配柚子胡椒
接下來的味道開始濃重,下一貫是竹籤魚配着柚子胡椒。
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竹籤魚經過炭烤,師傅保留了魚皮,因此整件壽司都散發着魚油的香氣,魚肉細嫩幼滑,鬆鬆化化的,入口輕輕一咬就已經在口中散開,配合柚子胡椒更能提鮮及提供了一絲清爽氣息,也和赤醋飯比較夾。
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剝皮魚 肝醬
上一貫竹籤魚的濃味來自於炭烤,而這一貫的剝皮魚的濃味就來自於肝醬的絲滑奶香creamy。
剝皮魚的肉質是屬於清清淡淡帶有少許淡淡甜美的白身魚,但神來之筆是師傅在壽司上淋上大量的肝醬,增添了香氣及奶香,也為這件壽司增添了水份,不會那麼乾,入口口腔滿滿被肝醬的香氣包圍着,非常享受,可惜仍然是醋飯的問題,aftertaste 並不美好,而且因為醋飯這麼多件壽司都屬於偏多的,已經開始有啲飽。
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小肌
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接下來的是醃過醋的小肌,醃得入味,兩件魚肉也厚,像厚厚的綿被蓋在醋飯之上,有種厚重的感覺,味道因為是偏濃郁酸味的,所以和赤醋飯比較夾,但有照片也可以看到飯量頗多,我今天像個飯桶一般吃了很多飯。
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北寄貝
下一貫是北寄貝壽司,新鮮的北寄貝師傅用花刀切斷所有纖維,咬下去爽脆容易咬斷,因為食材非常新鮮,所以甜味充足,爽脆清甜不帶一絲腥味,是吃得非常過癮滿足的一貫。
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中拖羅醬油漬
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接下來的是很特別的一貫,平常醬油漬多是用赤身,但這裏用的是中拖羅,看色澤也經過熟成,而且這件壽司的特別之處是中拖羅經過煙熏這個工序,吃的時候首先是一股濃烈的煙熏香味,然後味道帶着鹹鹹香香,有點像火腿的鮮味,又不像火腿一般有筋,這款因為是選用中拖羅,又熏足夠,所以是入口即溶的,非常正。
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三文魚子海膽丼
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接下來進入尾聲,上了三文魚子海膽丼,拌勻了一起吃,海膽清甜creamy, 品質不錯,略嫌份量太少,不夠拌飯的,三文魚子品質普通,普通的醬油漬,鮮味有點欠缺。很可惜,雖然三文魚子份量足夠,但鮮味不足,海膽新鮮先美味但份量不夠,所以總括來說這碗三文魚子海膽丼普通。
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帆立貝 穴子醬
接下來的是帆立貝,本來貝類的味道比較清淡,一般次序不會排得那麼後,但這裏師傅就在帆立貝上切花後掃上穴子醬,想要用穴子醬的濃郁調味為帆立貝增添味道,想法不錯,但醬汁的味道實在太為濃郁,完全掩蓋了貝類清淡的甜味,有點畫蛇添足的感覺。
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穴子 海鰻
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下一貫是真正的穴子(海鰻)但因為上一度已經用了穴子醬,所以這一道選擇的是比較清淡的白燒。
始終海鰻也是油脂豐富的魚,雖然沒有河鰻那麼肥美,肉質相對比較鬆散,但白燒仍然是不錯的,美中不足是這尾魚的肉薄,魚骨相對較多,比較突出,有照片中也可以見到魚刺,食用的時候口感不佳。
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太卷
最後的太卷看着師傅在面前卷好,着實花費了一番功夫,內有各種魚料及玉子,味道可以的,只是卷得稍為有點鬆散,因為太大件只能分兩口吃,但吃到一半的時候很多材料都散掉了,捲法有待改善。
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玉子燒
結尾上的兩件玉子燒,這裏採用的是蓬鬆的煎蛋方法,剪出來的玉子燒就像是比較紮實一點的海綿蛋糕一樣,甜甜的有少許湯汁的鮮味,水準不錯但也沒什麼特別。
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味噌湯
接下來上的湯也是用了赤味噌,店家的口味調得比較濃厚,對我來說鹹了少許。
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抹茶雪糕
甜品是抹茶雪糕,抹茶味道香濃,滿口都是茶香,慢慢品嚐,為這頓飯畫上句號。
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總括來說這裏的壽司品質有點參差,好壞參半,最大的問題是魚料和醋飯的平衡拿捏得不夠好,醋飯的份量也太大。其實這也是很多其他店家的共通毛病,選用了赤醋飯以後並沒有拿捏好每一件壽司魚料的用量,結果就有一部份魚料被飯的味道掩蓋。
其實清淡的魚類我個人認為用普通的醋飯就夠了,建議店家可以選用兩種不同的壽司飯來配搭不同的材料,更能突出各種材料的鮮味。
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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$1000 (午餐)