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港鐵香港站 C 出口, 步行約5分鐘 繼續閱讀
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食評 (15)
等級6 2018-10-05
712 瀏覽
美人姐姐曾多次向肥肥家族推介中環新竉「Arbor」,無奈XO仔訂咗兩次位都食檸檬,一直未有緣一試。適逢十一國慶,美人姐姐居然訂到張五人枱食早午餐喎,所以就叫細佬一定要推掉所有約會去好好品嚐廚師發辦o既海陸大餐。西餐廳位於中環新建成o既畫廊商廈「H Queen's」內,淨聽地址已感十分時尚。乘坐升降機抵達二十五樓,即由兩位溫婉有禮o既妹妹接待。步入用餐大堂必先經過帶有歐陸風味o既酒吧區,甚有格調。餐店佔用面積全層,樓底高高,極具氣派。散座排成近窗及貼牆兩行,空間感足,且毫不嘈雜。部份椅櫈用上弧形梳化,雅致得黎氣氛更為輕鬆。店子全場用上落地玻璃窗,務求貴客可盡情欣賞香港靚景。小肥仲八到店內設有兩間可打通o既十二至十四人及六至八人廂房,均設有最低消費額。厚本酒牌雖然係好多選擇,但單睇香檳o既價格已覺奇高。幸好餐店酒牌正在被審批中,故暫不收取任何開瓶費。嘻嘻,五口子當然係襯機嘆樽大炮香檳啦!主人家非常客氣地為各人點選好廚師發辦之節令四道菜餐單,每位$888。餐桌上已有齊備o既餐具,每道菜上場時亦會換上全身o既配套。安頓好一切,妹妹先弄濕食客面前o既紙巾,好等喺食用麵包前可抹一抹手,衛生非常。每個布袋內有四件自家製紫菜味甜麵包,質感鬆軟,甜甜咸咸都幾得意。伴上兩款明太子味及昆布味牛油,塗上後更覺香潤惹味。接著o既餐前小食看似簡單,但原來白雪雪o既為希臘乳酪,乳酪中央隱藏咗一件煙燻過o既日本鱒魚,而橙亮o既三文魚籽隔離嗰片火紅色o既則為焦糖紅菜頭。四款食材分開黎食,咸的咸,淡的淡,甜的甜,真係估唔到撈埋一齊食會變得如此清香鮮美,脆巧柔滑,甚有驚喜!廚師發辦第一道頭盤主材為冰島淡水小龍蝦,師傅輕輕以火槍燒過,再以小龍蝦頭及蕃茄汁液秘製出透明o既濃縮精華作調味。一、兩成熟o既小龍蝦爽潤彈牙,鮮甜無比,連同酸酸甜甜o既秘汁食用,效果清新醒胃,超!伴碟兩件紅蕃茄以昆布薄片添上咸香,同樣細膩。正當大家仍在回味小龍蝦為國慶帶黎o既味蕾火花時,面前迅即呈現出足料o既秋季松露雜菌意粉。嘩,師傅毫不吝嗇,碟上o既秋季松露份量實在震撼,未動手已先聞到清香撲鼻o既松露香!喺煙煙韌韌o既米型orzo意粉內混入巧薄輕盈o既新鮮松露及芬芳嫩脆o既高質雜菌,組合有層次得黎潤澤而不膩口,且十分芬香,實在美妙!主菜為粉嫩紅潤o既慢煮伊比利亞豬。上枱時,兩件厚切伊比利亞豬只有頂面幾粒鹽作調味。隨後,妹妹先戴上白色手套,得客人同意後才續一斟上以伊比利亞豬o既肉汁及骨髓所餚製而成o既秘汁。伊比利亞豬肉質軟腍帶微微爽口,點少少骨髓秘汁則令菜式更為香濃。碟上鮮艷奪目o既配菜乃茄子蓉及以黑蒜醬點綴o既燈籠椒蓉,塗上慢煮伊比利亞豬一拼黎食,即令豬肉鮮甜不少。套餐第四道甜品由清甜o既福岡水蜜桃、香脆o既蛋白糖霜及清涼o既桃味雪葩所組成,橙美亮麗,微甜輕巧。Arbor以「木」起名,除咗地板及天花都均以木作建材之外,美點雙輝o既擺盤亦巧妙地換上木盤,彷彿正要提一提醒貴客餐店概念源於自然美。甜點馬德琳貝殻蛋糕內含青檸絲,蛋糕仔厚潤彈口得黎滲出陣陣青檸香,清香涼快。而焙茶味馬卡龍則鬆化甘醇,甜而不溜。據悉,西餐廳之糕點全為名店「Dalloyau」所提供,焙茶味馬卡龍更係「Arbor」專有,故食剩打包都會用上「Dalloyau」o既靚盒承載。只外,套餐亦包有餐茶或咖啡一杯,部份仲有拉花睇。好多謝美人姐姐百忙中仍抽空請肥肥家族品嚐「Arbor」帶有不少日本食藝元素o既廚師發辦料理,一同慶祝國慶佳節。潮流熱店環境高雅,格調輕鬆,服務貼身稱心,海陸菜式美觀可口,現階段可免收開瓶費享用自攜佳釀,大家真係不妨襯機一試名店美食。 繼續閱讀
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
等級4 2018-08-05
3249 瀏覽
中環新貴H Queen,整棟大廈充滿設計氣質,矗立於人流暢旺的核心區域,因此有多家藝廊及高級法式餐廳進駐,對住饕客來說,當然是好消息。Arbor無論是在裝修及菜式特點上,與同系餐廳épure也十分相似。芬蘭主廚Eric Räty曾是Cafe Gray Deluxe的head chef,菜式中透露法日融合的韻調;裝潢佈置方面則也是由Yabu Pushelberg經手,取意餐廳名字「喬木」一意,打造以溫暖木色為主的用餐環境,採光充足自然,正正適合享受週末午餐。Amuse Bouche侍應首先送上amuse bouche,油甘魚刺身蓋著新薯方粒,綴以青芥末及海苔酸忌廉醬,整體相當溫和,又帶些許鮮味,已見日式元素。Bread籃內盛著兩款完全不同的麵包,葵瓜子酸種麵包厚實,充滿果仁香氣,配上兩款牛油送吃頗為配搭。餐廳送上的牛油精心別緻,鰹魚味牛油(bonito butter)透出木魚香氣,比海苔牛油更佳。另一款麵包為孜然(cumin)薄脆,香料味濃、硬度高,後段還吃得點苦味,只能一塊止步。3-course menu starter: Octopus頭盤的八爪魚經慢煮處理,入口帶點煙韌,沒有常見的濃郁醬汁配搭,反而更為清新。配上淡甜的日本小蕃茄,沖繩黑糖漬昆布及紫蘇花,日式風格顯著,配合得宜。4-course menu starter: Foie Gras四道菜的套餐頭盤有甜酒鵝肝慕斯,質感十分幼滑,加上日本的梅干(umeboshi)及燙大黃粒(rhubarb)混合的酸甜醬汁,油腴和酸度平衡,還有增加口感的蕎麥(buckwheat)脆脆,整體表現出色,但難以一人之力完成。Omakase menu starter: Oyster像迷你盆景的生蠔頭盤也不失鮮美,青瓜冰沙、酪奶(buttermilk)突顯清爽,還有舖在蠔葉上的小水珠,更是由香檳及醋混合而成,別具匠心。4-course menu middle course: Corn Velouté粟米濃湯望著簡單,吃著也簡單。但加入了藍龍蝦肉在湯內陪襯,似乎有點不合,想刻意強調食材運用,著實弄巧反拙。Omakase menu middle course: Asparagus蘆筍當造,怎少得這款甚帶法風的食材。雖不如前些日子在Amber吃的加大碼蘆筍般精緻出色,不過已算合格,由指橙(finger lime)帶出草綠氣息。另外還有法式經典荷蘭醬(Hollandaise Sauce)伴襯,檸檬酸香簡單調搭。3-course menu main: Iberico Pork主菜相對頭盤稍為失色,伊比利豬澆上精華(pork juice),肉質合格但調味較弱,甜椒蓉(bell pepper purée)亦沒有作出協調。配菜的甜滷大根及醋漬大根薄片單獨來說是做得還可,不過與伊比利豬欠缺互相環扣的和諧。4-course menu main: Cod鱈魚主菜以清新的方式呈現,用上接骨木花作泡沫醬汁,又配以芝士碎、青葡萄和少量辣根醬(horseradish sauce)點綴魚肉,伴及韮蔥(leek),整體是相當輕盈淡雅,但缺乏對魚肉的強調。Omakase menu main: Sea Bream時令的主廚發辦菜單,主菜較其他兩道優勝少許,魚肉表面香脆金黃,內裏柔嫩秀白,和西蘭花蓉(broccoli purée)般為配搭,柚子醬汁平衡協調,還有芝麻增添層次。3-course menu dessert: Organic Chocolate三道菜餐單的甜品以堅果為主題,例如有蕎麥焦糖雪糕,朱古力醬、咖啡慕斯及焦糖脆脆,可是整體過甜,對不嗜甜者或許過膩。4-course menu dessert: Passion Fruit充滿視覺衝擊的一道熱情果甜品,由黑芝麻去擔任中和酸度的角色,並以不同形式呈現。主角熱情果醬配西米,酸度高強,無論是黑芝麻雪糕還是脆片,都未能成功制服酸味。黑芝麻混白朱古力球內有熱情果慕斯,這個反而較平衡。Omakase menu dessert: Calamansi另外一道甜品是以比較少見的四季柑/金桔(calamansi)為主,造成雪糕及甜醬,配以自家製碎曲奇及蛋白餅脆片帶出層次,清新的感覺頗為迎合夏日氣息。最後送上新鮮焗好的貝殼蛋糕,滲出絲絲青檸及清酒微香,以咖啡送吃甚佳。單看午餐幾道,未有想再試晚餐之意,整體成品未達精緻的水準,特別是甜品部分,而味道上又不及姊妹店Épure。環境及服務則沒什麼可以挑剔,舒適悠閒,氣氛輕鬆,經理也照顧得宜。風格很是適合女生,若說想來喝些小酒香檳還是可以的。 繼續閱讀
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
早前海港城的「ÉPURE」摘下香港米芝蓮一星,可喜可賀,亦令精緻而有活力的法國菜系得到認同,不會再給人只有拘謹嚴肅的感覺。 位於中環新開的「Arbor」,與「Epure」屬同集團,走更有創意 fusion 的法國料理路線。 餐廳以落地玻璃設計為主,自然光充足,坐擁中環靚景: 此店可說是城中新貴,午市常爆,我當日亦見到一位司長來吃飯。Menu 以簡潔為主,只列出食材名,令菜式添上神秘感。 負責主理「Ambor」的是 Chef Eric Räty,也就是某本地著名米芝蓮餐廳的前主廚,在這裡他的創意可說是發揮的淋沛漓盡致: 先上暖烘焙麵包,配木魚牛油及松露牛油,木魚牛油已輕透 fusion 感: 「Foie Gras」 菜名就這樣簡單。冷吃鴨肝醬,配蘇玳甜白酒、大黃酸辣醬、日本梅干、烤蕎麥和矢車菊。鴨肝慕斯打得幼絲細滑,質感輕薄,體現廚技。搭配酸甜梅干及有咬口的蕎麥粒,不論味道及口感,都有所提升: 「Langoustine」 即是冰島小龍蝦,去殻後用炭火輕把表面烤熟,內裏仍保持嫩及刺身般的狀態: Chef Eric 將龍蝦搭配日本蕃茄,用黑啤、黑醋栗、黑糖及雪莉醋醃漬過的日本昆布,昆布油,蕃茄清湯啫喱,木魚等,整體味道清甜,亦看得到心思所在: 「Asparagus」 第當造的法國青蘆筍和白蘆筍,搭配味噌荷蘭醬。青蘆筍面層鋪上有「水果中魚子醬」之稱的指燈粒和食用花,賣相矜貴: 事先切好的白蘆筍嫩而多汁,青蘆筍則清而爽口,配醬同吃是有將食味和層次感一步一步推進,出色: 「Wagyu beef A4」 不是傳統的法式牛扒和薯條,而是用油脂分佈均勻和鮮嫩的鹿兒島A4和牛,配紫薯脆片及混合了柚子牛油的蕃薯蓉。吃次前淋上烤過的唐辛子及印度馬拉巴胡椒汁,十分大膽及有創意的配搭: 不得不說,肉質軟嫩有緻,輕輕一切就分開,沾印度馬拉巴胡椒汁吃,有些孜然及茴香的味道,是第一次感受這種味覺配合: 「Soy Milk」(with Madeleine) 最後甜品上場,Chef Eric 說靈感是來自豆腐花,看上去像木塊的脆腐皮用蜂蜜和牛油烤焗成,配豆奶味雪糕和底下的自家製鹹蛋黃白朱古力,可說是心思非常: 不得不提,旁邊的日本黑豆竟然是用了我們「九龍醬園」豉油沾過的,甜中帶鹹,是真・中西合璧。 整個用餐體驗非常捧,菜式由頭至尾都充滿驚喜,服務員彬彬有禮,介紹每道菜也清𥇦利落。會否成為下年入圍米芝蓮的新貴?大家晰目以待。 繼續閱讀
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
等級4 2018-05-28
3758 瀏覽
這家新店大有來頭,是米芝蓮星級餐廳Epure的姊妹店, 主打日式新派法國菜。這餐廳位於中環H Queens廿五樓,可一覽摩天高樓景色.裝修以自然木色同綠色為主,兩邊窗唔透着自然光,沒有epure 的華麗堂皇,而是舒服自在的家庭感覺。席上的客人以商務客戶居多,和epure 有點不同,也許與餐廳位置的關係吧。這兒的Lunch set 有三款,分別為3個course$468,4個course $538, 或4 course omasake$698. Bread basket 有sour dough 同脆片,配以自家製的牛油有昆布及日本木魚口味。sour dough 外脆內軟,充滿氣孔,而木魚牛油帶有和風味道,咸香中透出木魚氣息。配上昆布牛油又另有一番風味,是一陣清新的海草味道,十分特別。Amuse broche 這帶子sushi造型精緻,鮮嫩的帶子下是小薯同沙律汁,就是法日fusion的壽司,有趣,但無乜味道的驚喜。Foie gras鵝肝蓉配上、大黃根同日本梅,還有紫色小花點綴,賣相很美。鵝肝口感軟滑,味道濃郁,加上清新酸甜的日本梅,平衡了鵝肝的肥膩感覺,而當中的大黃根同蕎麥粒,令它增添了香口的味道同脆脆口感,令味道更有層次,是幾十分迎合夏天菜式。Sweet corn velouto 曰本沖繩的粟米烤得焦香,口感爽脆。粟米湯口感幼滑creamy ,味道甜美,夾有少量明太子的鮮味,是一個幾完美的粟米二重奏。Sea bream這道慢煮cod Fish,配以接骨木花的汁,還有小花在魚件上,十分夏日的意象。這鱈魚肉質結實有囗感,帶有魚脂的油份,滑溜溜的。魚肉拌以酸酸甜甜的接骨木花泡沬,加埋米醋醃過的青提子,酸甜並置,令鬱悶嘅胃口大開,整體味道淸爽而怡人。Passion fruit黑芝麻朱古力波波細細粒好可愛。一放入口,內𥚃的熱情果汁,卜一聲爆出來。清新熱情果味道淸新帶酸,同香甜的朱古力好夾!正!還有黑芝麻雪芭同黑芝麻脆脆也十分味美。雪芭芝麻味十分香濃軟滑,配合熱情果和西米,一甜一酸,一西一曰,真是完全配撘,是輕怡又味濃的甜品。Petite fours:Madeleine 貝殼蛋糕烤得外脆內軟,唔油膩,唔會太甜仲滿有旦香,還帶點點的清酒同青檸皮的味道,不錯。Cappuccino:賣相不錯,咖啡味道甘香,而奶比較薄身,雖然不致奶滑,但味道可以。由頭盤吃到甜品,無論味道或份量都恰到好處,整體感覺唔錯。法式煮法用上日式食材,同Haku, Ta Vie, a nu retrouvez -vous 走相近路缐,而價格定位也唔差太遠。然而,四家之中,各有千秋,前者和風囗味比較重,而這家法式主道輔以曰式食材,有或多或少epure的影子。今天一個人慶祝,餐廳環境舒適唔焗促,感覺悠然自得。以午餐而言,這兒的菜單比較epure 更能形合季節。下次要相約友人再度拜訪,同epure 再比較一下。 繼續閱讀
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
等級4 2018-05-05
4964 瀏覽
One Michelin starred Épure has recently opened across the harbour at H Queen's, the newest art hub and dining paradise in Central. Arbor, its sister establishment, becomes the latest member to join the city's crowded fine dining scene, which is going to get even more crowded with the likes of Ecriture joining the party this month.I was curious of who they would put in charge of Arbor's kitchen and it turned out, chef Eric Räty, who was the former chef de cuisine at Café Gray Deluxe at The Upper House, was the man entrusted to take the helm.I have recruited up-and-coming foodie, MOM (no relation to MI6) to be my partner-in-crime for this lunch. Let's see if their contemporary French cuisine could get her out of her seat. We had a bit of a problem deciding whether to take the 3-course ($468) and 4-course ($538) menu. Unlike some of the other fine dining establishments, the multi-course menus here are completely different without a single common item, which created a little headache for the both of us.After some nerve-racking moments, we were finally able to decide. I will take on the 4-course menu while mom will have 3-course. Thankfully, the restaurant does not require us to take the same menu (like some places would).Our amuse bouche was a scoop of foie gras custard served on a bed of rhubarb purée along with Japanese plum coulis and shaved buckwheat. Pretty good start.Bread was some homemade sourdough served with two types of butter. The left one was made with bonito. Didn't get the second one but I thought it's kombu with a bit of herbs on top.I traded starters with mom coz she doesn't like raw fish. On the other hand, I'm a sucker for hamachi so this was a perfect trade, at least on my part. This was just very delicious. The silky hamachi sashimi was perfectly matched with Japanese tomato and served in a light tomato consommé infused with kombu oil. It was a very refreshing dish and the clean flavors from the tomato were an amazing way to kick off the meal.In place of the hamachi sashimi, mom was having my Ebisu oyster but since she doesn't like raw oyster (on top of raw fish), the kitchen did their part turning it into a lightly poached oyster for her. This was a pretty nice dish too. The oyster was paired with cucumber granita, pickled cucumber, oyster leaf and buttermilk espuma. Again very clean and natural flavors, this time coming from the cucumber and oyster leaf which helped to give this dish another dimension.The second dish from the 4-course set was something that I've been seeing a lot lately - green and white asparagus which are in-season right now. These were poached and served with finger lime for some nice acidity and a special Hollandaise sauce infused with white miso. Not bad.Both of our main courses were coming up fast and furious. Mom's having French chicken with a slice of roasted chicken breast nicely complemented with a second portion from the leg which has been confit (I think). Some carrot purée on the side helped to offset the richness of the chicken.My main course was braised veal cheek with sweet potato, purple potato chip and fresh black pepper. While the dish didn't score very high with its presentation, I thought the veal cheek was really nice and tender. There were different textures of sweet potato and purple potato there to balance things out. For mom, dessert was a few sticks of chocolate mousse with chocolate crumble and scoop of sorbet which I guessed was basil (didn't get the chance to try it myself so I guess I would never find out). Pretty decent.I got more premium Japanese ingredients, this time it was Japanese strawberries in a chilled strawberry soup. I was busy answering a call when our server was explaining all the ingredients so like mom's sorbet, I missed the part about my sorbet as well. But judging from the flavors, I would take a wild guess that it's green tomato!?A freshly made madeleine straight from the oven serving as our petite four.Living up to its reputation as a French-Japanese fusion, Arbor combines modern French cooking with premium Japanese ingredients. I thought Arbor's cuisine is a lot more contemporary comparing to Épure's and you can really tell the difference in style. But after all, I guess there's no point of making the two alike.This was the second of my four highly anticipated meals this week. With HAKU and Arbor down, I still have à nu retrouvez-vous and Ecriture coming up later the week. A really busy week for my stomach! 繼續閱讀
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)