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2017-08-24
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When my dining companion asked where we were going, I struggled between "kesa" and "chesa" given how linguistically diverse Switzerland is. That was when I looked up the word and found out that "chesa" means “home” in the Swiss dialect Romansch which, I thought, was intriguing because all but one dish on the menu was named in French, plus Romansch is spoken by a very small number of Swiss, even in Grisons, where Chesa seems to source some of its food from. I suppose the key takeaway from the cho
Looking around, one would see mostly diners born before the 70s sitting comfortably and acting like return customers, although the early bird dinner at $330 per head has no doubt managed to attract younger couples looking to experience fine dining on a special occasion, making sure to take photographs of themselves and their newly acquired, boxed Chanel accessories carefully juxtaposed with Chesa's background setting.
Ask anyone in Hong Kong about Swiss fine dining, and chances are you will be met with a blank stare. I didn't seem to leave Chesa feeling much more informed, either. While Chesa's menu bears witness to many regional influences and, like traditional Swiss food, potatoes, bread, root vegetables and cheese seem ubiquitous, for those who are really not interested in rösti or Swiss sausage, the selection takes care of that. You can have perfectly region-neutral dishes such as rack of lamb, pan-fried duck liver, or even roasted spring chicken (with potatoes, or root vegetables, or cheese, or some other interesting flavor combination). Fish and shellfish are also cooked more or less in a typical "Western" fashion. In fact, at the end of our meal, we found out that dishes that overlapped with a meal at a friend's wedding three months ago (at the Peninsula) tasted exactly the same. Was it because Chef Trento's responsible for all Peninsula made dishes that he didn't care enough to recreate them more frequently, or is Chesa now officially a general Western restaurant with only fondue and raclette to distinguish it from others?
Authenticity aside, I thought the food was good overall, if a little over-priced depending on what you are looking for. A filling meal without drinks came down to roughly $1900 for us. Although Chesa's ski shelter setting created by revamped, white-washed walls is rather special for Hong Kong, I may still prefer to have more distinguishably Swiss cuisine, which has always been more down-to-earth in my memory, in a less pretentious and contrived setting.
Anyway, let's look at the food rundown:
Bread basket to start
Bread basket
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Scottish Salmon Tartar $265
Salmon Tartar
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Pan-Fried Duck Liver $340
Duck Liver
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Cheese Fondue (we chose Montagnarde) $290
Fondue Montagnarde
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Organic Beef Cheek Stew $370
Beef Cheek Stew
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Seared Scallop and Shrimps $390
Grilled Shrimp/ Scallop
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