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2009-07-02
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While casual chic isn’t particularly unusual in Grand Hyatt’s dining establishments, the 4 open kitchens* at Sha Tin 18 沙田18 are quite unique in Hong Kong Chinese restaurants. Each station is led by a chef with pretty strong resume, such as the dessert station managed by former pastry chefs from Joel Robuchon in Macau. But our objective was very clear. We wanted to try their Peking Duck, which was claimed to follow the traditional method used in Beijing and prepared by a chef devoted to Pekin
While casual chic isn’t particularly unusual in Grand Hyatt’s dining establishments, the 4 open kitchens* at Sha Tin 18 沙田18 are quite unique in Hong Kong Chinese restaurants. Each station is led by a chef with pretty strong resume, such as the dessert station managed by former pastry chefs from Joel Robuchon in Macau. But our objective was very clear. We wanted to try their Peking Duck, which was claimed to follow the traditional method used in Beijing and prepared by a chef devoted to Peking duck roasting since his days at 全聚德.
Besides ordering the whole Peking duck, we didn’t bother with the regular Chinese BBQ, seafood, meat and vegetable sections on the menu. Instead we focused on their “specialties” sections under different chefs. First came was the soup called Double-Boiled Consommé, Tangerine Peel (老陳皮燉肉汁, $58). While the “consommé” was indeed clear, the pork flavor was weak and overshadowed by the tangerine peel. The minced pork meat was way too dry and tough texturally, completely missing the fluffy and velvety consistency that the meat patty should be. This soup happens to be my mom’s specialty (specialties are not limited to their chefs), and unfortunately I couldn’t give the version at Sha Tin 18 the stamp of approval.
Following the disappointing soup were two dishes from the “Xian Noodles and Dumplings” under Chef Nicholas (yes, that’s how they say it on the menu). Poached Country Pork Dumplings (農家巧手肉餃子, $68) was decent, although not amazing as one might hope. Without the spicy dipping sauce this dish would have been very bland. The Shaanxi Pork, Mushrooms, Hand-Pulled Noodles (陝西手工哨子麵, $68) was prepared with noodles thicker than I expected and cooked adequately, chewy with a bite. The toppings were an interesting medley of mushrooms, fungus (木耳), baby corn, potato dices(!), minced pork, and greens, but the flavor didn’t standout as much as the vibrant colors. We probably should have ordered a noodle with a bolder and stronger flavored condiment.
Fortunately their signature item, the Peking Duck (傳統北京填鴨, $398/全隻) , was able to redeem our falling confidence at that point. The gorgeous roasted duck was carved tableside by the Beijing chef in charge of the Peking Duck Roasting kitchen and just came from Beijing a month ago. With skillful hands, he swiftly carved three different platters of duck parts presented one after another to showcase various textures and flavors of the Peking duck:
Breast skin only (鴨胸皮) – Paper thin slices of duck skin from the breast area eaten with sprinkles of sugar and without the crepes. What impressed me the most was how these skins just melt on my tongue (like fat!) without any sense of greasiness. The crispiness was sort of like puff pastry (酥皮) which is crispy yet just degenerates in your mouth by itself. The skin wasn’t seasoned so the sugar helped to enhance the natural flavor of the duck fat / skin.
Breast meat only (鴨胸肉)– with only meat and no skin from the breast areas, the slices were very soft and tender, just a little dry due to its leanness. The sweet bean sauce (甜醬) added moisture and flavor to the meat when eaten with the crepes .
Leg meat with skin (鴨腿皮連肉)– these slices let you have the best of both world. The combination of crackling crispy skin (脆鴨腿皮) with a thin layer of aromatic duck fat underneath and the juicy and flavorful meat was just too hard to resist! While we were told to use the garlic paste (蒜泥) with the meat when wrapped with the crepes, I liked it with 甜醬 myself as I found the garlic a tad too overpowering.
Also worth noting was the crepes that they used. They were warm and chewy with a more “wheaty” flavor than usual, and elastic and “moist” enough not to fall apart when folded. Even the scallions and cucumbers were julienned to the same length and fineness, and the bean paste 甜醬 tasted very much house made. It’s great to see a restaurant paying attention to small details like these.
While we were enjoying our duck, we had the opportunities to chat with the duck chef and the head chef. To achieve such succulent and delicious Peking duck, the duck must be roasted in two stages inside two stone ovens operating at different temperatures. These ovens are dedicated just for roasting Peking ducks shipped from Beijing, so the restaurant is evidently serious about their duck roasting process. Although I haven’t had the Peking duck in Beijing before, as a customer I will say it is well worth the investment as the Peking duck we sampled lived up to its hype.
The last dish we ordered was recommended by the head chef of Sha Tin 18, 鄒師傅 , under his own “Dong Guan Specialties by Chef Nelson” section. Crispy Fried River Sprats, Shrimps, Peanuts (鄉下仔田魚蝦毛 $98) might sound humble but the flavor certainly wasn’t. The tiny fish and shrimps and the peanuts were all freshly fried and crunchy. The pungent garlic chives, the savory crustaceans, and the nutty peanut synthesized to a satisfying peasant dish, perfect with rice or congee and satisfying enough for the king.
The myriad of dessert options was almost a tyranny of choice, but we couldn’t bypass the creations by former Robuchon chefs. The four homemade ice creams: Papaya Snow Fungi, Chinese Wine Chocolate, Jasmine Milk Tea, and White Sesame (木瓜雪耳雪糕, 五糧液朱古力雪糕, 茉莉花雪糕, 白芝麻雪糕, $25/scoop) , were all creamy and delicious, with the first two being my favorites and the surprisingly good in flavor. Candied Longan Peanut Brownie 龍眼花生巧克力餅$52 and Chinese Dried Fruit, Almond Tart 蜜餞涼果杏仁撻 $50 were both moist and the additions of Chinese dried fruits and nuts created a complex mouthfeel in each bite. Hawthorn Panna Cotta 山楂奶凍 ($50) was refreshing with a slight sourness. I am usually not a fan of fusion food, but all of these fusion desserts were creative and delicious, and good enough to compete with any dessert houses.
Overall I am very happy with my meal at Sha Tin 18, particularly with the Peking duck and the desserts. The service was also top-notch, with the staff being very patient and courteous to explain the dishes to us. Even though we were the last table to leave, the staff was still smiling and told us not to worry about rushing to leave. Being able to talk to the chefs and see how they prepared our food were extra bonuses. I will surely be back to sample the rest of the dessert menu, and to enjoy possibly one of the best Peking ducks I had in Hong Kong.
* The 4 open kitchens are: 麪食及餃子廚房、燒烤廚房、鑊廚房、甜品廚房, each with a glass window so customers can watch the chefs prepare their food.
张贴
