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2022-08-21
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Umai is a Japanese izakaya with traditional mahogany settings and Japanese lanterns, teleporting you right to the fishing villages in Japan amidst travel bans. It consists of a main dining area, where you could enjoy sake and a la carte items, as well as a tempura room and yakitori counter for omakase set menus.Helmed by two Japanese chefs, Umai is insistent on providing the most authentic and meticulous quality to diners. Chef Hikita, previously head chef of Inagiku at Peninsula and the Royal G
Helmed by two Japanese chefs, Umai is insistent on providing the most authentic and meticulous quality to diners. Chef Hikita, previously head chef of Inagiku at Peninsula and the Royal Garden Hotel, has over 40 years of experience with tempura, and is hailed as the first generation tempura chef in Hong Kong. The yakitori station on the other hand, is under the capable direction of Chef Shimoda. He has over 15 years of yakitori experience at Tokyo, and has recently flew in to Hong Kong.
We opted for their yakitori dinner menu priced at $780, which included two appetizers, sashimi, 9 yakitori, 2 grilled vegetables, soup, chicken sukiyaki and dessert. Throughout the meal, we could easily notice the meticulous attention the chef has put into the selection of ingredients and grilling procedures. First of all, Kishu Binchotan from Wakayama was used. Being almost smoke-free and 3 times hotter than normal charcoal, a beautiful sear could easily be achieved, and at the same time, natural juices within the meat could be retained. Secondly, mataichi salt from Fukuoka was used for seasoning. Thirdly, chicken breed was carefully selected after sampling over 20 kinds of local and Japanese breeds. Japanese Awaodori chicken was used for the meat, while organs from local Qing Yuan chicken was used to ensure freshness. The kinds of yakitori served varies every day depending on availability. Sometimes, you get to try some really rare cuts, like chicken crown, testis, immature egg yolks and thyroid. The followings were included in our set:
Marinated Oma's Kuro Maguro
The fish was tender and fresh with a slight acidic aftertaste. It was bejeweled with some purple colored shiso flowers, amping the dish up with some citrusy aroma. One thing I learnt is that Oma utilizes fishing techniques called “long line fishing” and “pole-and-line fishing” that prevents the fish from overheating while struggling. This prevents the flesh fibers from becoming stiff.Avocado Grapefruit Salad
This was a very refreshing dish that whetted our appetite for the gut-busting meal ahead. Sorry that I forgot to take photos of this course.
Chicken Liver Pate
Smooth to the palate, the liver pâté triggered all our umami taste receptors. Spread on crostini which were fresh out of the grill, it tasted as luscious as foie gras but less greasy and heavy.Yakitori and Kushiyaki
1. Chicken Thigh with Leeks
2. Chicken Gizzard
3. Chicken Neck
The above three skewers were lightly seasoned with mataichi salt from Fukuoka. You could add a bit of punch with the myriad of condiments they provide. Chicken neck was slightly chewy as the muscle moves a lot, but was at the same time very fragrant due to its hefty fat content. Chicken gizzard was crunchy, while the thighs were very tender with chicken juices dripping the whole time I took photos.4. Chicken Tail
This is the fattiest cut of the bird, resulting in a melt-in-the-mouth texture that dissolves upon consumption. It was paired with a Genovese sauce made with Oba, that resembled basil pesto sauce we usually have in Western meals.5. Chicken Testis
I was a bit hesitant in trying this, but the texture and flavor turned out quite acceptable. The outer skin was slightly rubbery, and when popped open, reveals a tofu-like texture. Its natural flavor was quite bland, so it was paired with a vinegar to add some tangy twist to it.6. Chicken Wings
This sounded like a very common dish, but could really test the mettle of the chef. Chef Shimoda nailed it by encasing copious amounts of steaming juices within the crackling bubbling skin. It was simply a quintessence of a perfect chicken wing.7. Chicken Liver
8. Chicken Meatball
9. Chicken Thyroid
For the above skewers, the chef would souse them into a barrel of sweet soy sauce amid the grilling process. The beautiful sear and caramelization made them a sing. The meatballs were homemade with Japanese Awaodori chicken, with a perfect meat-to-fat ratio. The thyroid carried a creamy texture and intense chicken flavor, and was my favorite of the night. As for the chicken liver, it emanated some metallic nuances. Some people might like it, but I found it a little too pungent for my liking.10. Green Pepper
11. Zucchini
Chicken Soup
This was a hearty bowl of chicken soup with simple flavors to cleanse your palate.Chicken Sukiyaki
Instead of using beef, chicken was cooked the sukiyaki way with sweet soy sauce. After lightly grilling the chicken, burdock and leeks, it was presented over a gas stove, ensuring that the contents remain bubbling hot. It came along with udon, which you could add into the soup, as well as an egg for dipping.Matcha Icecream with Red Bean
The perfect meal was rounded up with a matcha icecream with a nice bittersweet aftertaste.Verdict
We loved the concept of this Japanese eatery and its fastidious insistence in providing the most authentic experiences to diners. With several new entries to the yakitori scene in Hong Kong, Umai’s quality and vast variety make it competitive among its rivals. We would love to be back to sample their tempura set in the future.
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