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2017-04-06
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It was almost a year ago when I was last here. An important change had taken place. For the worst, I am afraid. I had much preferred The Steak House over Morton's for one simple reason - the cooking method. The steaks here are properly salted BEFORE cooking and have a more pronounced charred crust.Well, The Steak House has changed their cooking method - low salt and less char. The result? A far less satisfying steak. Might as well been to Morton's. No thanks. For a steak house, this is the most
I had much preferred The Steak House over Morton's for one simple reason - the cooking method. The steaks here are properly salted BEFORE cooking and have a more pronounced charred crust.
Well, The Steak House has changed their cooking method - low salt and less char. The result? A far less satisfying steak. Might as well been to Morton's. No thanks.
For a steak house, this is the most important change. So much that after the meal I went up to talk to the chef and he confirmed the low salt less char approach. We agreed that next time I can request pronounced salting before cooking and proper charring.
A steak browns because of a process called the Maillard Reaction. This takes place when oil reacts with sugar in red meat cells under relatively high temperature. It is the Maillard action that gives rise to a large range of different flavor molecules and that results in a range of complex taste. Adding salt before the Maillard reaction does two things - it increases the amount of taste and complexity of taste of the steak during the Maillard reaction, and it helps the formation of a crust. The result is a crusty, tasty and complex steak. Gutsy and satisfying.
You cannot hope to get the same result by adding salt after the cooking is done. Just as you can't eat a sugar cube after you have drunk the coffee and hope for the same result. You get a Morton's steak instead, bland and unexciting.
A dining customer should not be made to know all this science. But I wished they had told me how they changed their cooking method before ordering and to let me know I can request the old classic way.
The maitre d' told me that many customers now request low salt for health reasons. For health reasons? Then go eat something else. Even without the addition of salt, the Maillard reaction involving a special sugar present in red animal meat but not in human beings can cause cancer.
The salad bar has lettuce that has been washed on premises rather than ore-waahed elsewhere or simply unwashed. But they skipped the drying and so the leaves are still quite wet. Dressing won't cling. A definite no no for a restaurant of this class and price.
But I have always enjoyed the room. Its masculine straight lines, leather, Frank Sinatra era jazz, all work together to evoke the classic American steakhouse.
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