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2018-01-08
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Summary: Must have been an off day – too much salt in almost every key dish, overshadowing the striking presentation and creative recipes. Disappointing because I love the idea!Wine beast has a fabulous concept – a French bistro that sells wine at essentially retail price with interesting dishes at relatively reasonable prices. Their menu offers an everyday 4-course tasting menu with wine pairings for less than HKD600, a terrific value. It’s quite casual, with high ceilings and un-clothed table
Wine beast has a fabulous concept – a French bistro that sells wine at essentially retail price with interesting dishes at relatively reasonable prices. Their menu offers an everyday 4-course tasting menu with wine pairings for less than HKD600, a terrific value. It’s quite casual, with high ceilings and un-clothed table settings, directly next to their retail wine store. A great atmosphere for a casual date or for dinner with friends. Service is a bit try-hard (too many unnecessary explanations) but overall very accommodating and attentive.
The menu is varied and offers a HKD845 Tomahawk steak alongside substantial and reasonable (sub-HKD200) starters and mains. We started with a selection of “Frapas” which were exceedingly affordable (HKD 100 for 3):
Frapas
$100
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Tuna Tartare
Sausage Crostini
Butternut Squash Puree
We thought these were all fine and worth finishing certainly, especially with the delicious homemade (?) bread they are happy to continue serving you all meal. Flavors were a bit un-surprising shall we say, but the dishes were appetizing and appropriately seasoned, which is more than I can say for the rest of the meal.
As for appetizers, we tried the:
Beef Ravioli with mushrooms
Beef Ravioli
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A visually striking dish – four pieces of ravioli covered in a Parmesan foam and mushrooms, layered in a brown butter sauce. To say nothing of the butter (which I thought was fine, though my friend though that was too much itself) the foam itself is just a bomb of salt – I was expecting that parmesan umami blast, but everything was just dominated by the saltiness. The ravioli is stuffed with shredded beef, not the usual cheese + meat mixture, but's sensible given the heaviness of the brown butter/parmesan foam sauce. Should have been at least good but ended up being just edible.
Grilled Octopus and Squid with Egg and Grilled Rabbit Rillettes
Grilled Octopus/Squid with Egg
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I really wanted to love this dish – a squid ink and vegetable puree (according to the waitress) as the base to support grilled, sliced octopus, a runny fried egg, and a grilled rabbit rillettes garnish. I love every individual ingredient here, but again, the squid ink puree was just way too salty, and beyond the saltiness, was burdened by an un-placeable heaviness. I don’t think there was any cream, but was an assault on the senses. My friend couldn’t eat more than a bite, though I did finish most of it in the end.
Scallops with Parmesan Foam and Brown Butter sauce
Scallops
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Nicely-cooked scallops, but bathed in the same Parmesan foam as the ravioli, it was way too salty. Shame.
Dessert: Mango Crème Brulee with Mango Sorbet
Mango creme brulee
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This was probably the best dish on the night, and with such a generous portion, clearly designed to be shared. Two nicely textured (smooth but with some heft) crème brulees topped with chunky mango and a served with a scoop of homemade mango sorbet. Mango is very much my thing, and though simply constructed, the tang of the mango works really well with the creme brulee.
Overall, it’s a great concept (a wine shop serving good food), a great venue, and an interesting menu at reasonable prices (was about 1000 for 2 including a bottle of White). It was disappointing on the day we went (perhaps because it was Dec 30th?) but I feel like the chefs that put together those dishes surely know how to extract subtler flavors from their ingredients. I’ll definitely try it again, but for now it can’t be rated more than just Okay.
张贴
