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2009-04-05
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係香港,'道'其實跟大多數嘅日本菜色係真係好唔一樣的.通常,香港人食黎食去都只係鐘意專攻同一種型色嘅日本嘢.私人而言,這當然係冇問題啦.袒白講,呢樣嘢自巳都有做－.好同唔好,應唔應該，呢啲係私人主見．你唔好理我喇.只不過，當有啲好野係大家面前但唔夠朋友或者其他人識得欣賞嘅話或ｓｕｐｐｏｒｔ佢，咁好多時當佢以後唔再係到嘅話，ｓｕｆｆｅｒ嘅就只會係我地呢啲為食鬼囉. 事先講定，當我大致上苙過吓兩嘢'道'嘅中午同夜晚餐牌之後, 我已經知道晚上黎會係完全兩回事來的. 呢間野嘅特點,就係師父係夜晚造嘅'迷你-會席宴'.即係Kaiseki course. $600+ Per Person.Kaiseki in Japanese actually has 2 subtly different meanings.發音係一樣的.'會席''懷石' 佢地分別其實不大的,因為兩種料理係同出於一轍的- 跟茶席有關. 只不過後者係京都懷石料理時’點心’嘅部份'可能會花巧啲啲,靚仔啲同用啲FORMAL少少嘅木具同八吋. 就算好像平時食的便當,呸如對面'見城'嗰個四格松花堂便當或nobu便當,也是沿於原來的'會席料
通常,香港人食黎食去都只係鐘意專攻同一種型色嘅日本嘢.
私人而言,這當然係冇問題啦.袒白講,呢樣嘢自巳都有做－[笑].
好同唔好,應唔應該，呢啲係私人主見．你唔好理我喇.
只不過，當有啲好野係大家面前但唔夠朋友或者其他人識得欣賞嘅話或ｓｕｐｐｏｒｔ佢
，咁好多時當佢以後唔再係到嘅話，ｓｕｆｆｅｒ嘅就只會係我地呢啲為食鬼囉. 事先講定，當我大致上苙過吓兩嘢'道'嘅中午同夜晚餐牌之後[得日文], 我已經知道晚上黎會係完全兩回事來的. 呢間野嘅特點,就係師父係夜晚造嘅'迷你-會席宴'.即係Kaiseki course. $600+ Per Person.
Kaiseki in Japanese actually has 2 subtly different meanings.發音係一樣的.
'會席'
'懷石'
佢地分別其實不大的,因為兩種料理係同出於一轍的- 跟茶席有關. 只不過後者係京都懷石料理時’點心’嘅部份'可能會花巧啲啲,靚仔啲同用啲FORMAL少少嘅木具同八吋. 就算好像平時食的便當,呸如對面'見城'嗰個四格松花堂便當或nobu便當,也是沿於原來的'會席料理'的呢!
乜都有啲,前菜、炊き合わせ、焼き物、煮物、酢魚、冷やし鉢、香の物（漬物）、天ぷら、etc. 仲又嘅係,'會席宴'已經轉變成可以飲酒的,不是只可以飲茶咁無奈!
係我記憶中,香港會做差不多類似嘅料理就只有幾間,好像'割烹宇津木'同'灘萬',就算'旬菜富'都以經有少少無咁似(新派少少). 呸如係其他日本料理店,好像'櫻'度叫 Omakase Course,出黎嘅效果同 Overall Course Balance 又唔同了,因為那邊似高級居酒屋多啲.
比起晚宴,'道'嘅午餐選擇僅是比較簡單的'和式或日替定食',像親子飯跟烏東同竹の子餐 - 人客係食出同其他居酒屋好大嘅分別的,尤其係.'利久庵',..等等.
唯一一樣有啲啲似晚宴的,就是'Omakase 定食',不過仲係同是夜餐牌有肯定的很大大大差距... 既然在這裏了,就先試一試佢個午餐定食喇:
1) 親子飯跟烏東同燒竹の子餐 -
The Chicken thigh is cooked slightly in soya based mixture of sauces first, then topped with the stirred in egg and slid over the top of the rice. My friend privately complained that the chicken was super hard and slightly dry, it was not of the normal texture expected from this dish. This was confirmed when I did a cross-tasting.
The Udon in the broth however, as supposedly very nice, with the noodled boiled to the right consistency and the broth had a balanced seafood/seaweed taste. I tried some of the 竹の子 which were slightly marinated and had bonito flakes, it was awesomely crunchy and flavoursome.
2)‘お任せ定食’-
Seems like this has been ordered by everyone a million times already, but I wanted to try it anyway as it might give me a glimpse of what to expect during dinner. I have to say I was slightly disappointed with the cooking. The 煮物 consisting of mainly vegetables, such as 蓮耦,竹の子,carrots, etc, was very nicely marinated and cooked. However, the Tempura pieces did not really have a tempura batter texture, it was more like fish and chips batter, and there is no '花' like commercial tempura, nor was it thinner crisp batter like specialty Tempura shops.
The 燒魚 of 1 small piece of white and 1 piece of salmon fish, was very tough. I understand that in Japan, especially for breakfast and lunch, this should be cooked until it absorbs all of its marination of soy based sauces - but in this meal, the fish was way firmer than the norm in Japan, it started becoming stringy - it was cooked on too high a heat.
Some of the small baits and Tsuke-mono pickles were great. The 半熟温泉卵 in its つゆ
was very nice too.
The Sashimi of 2 kinds however were once again unsatisfactory, the Red Tuna was dull
and had not much taste. The Yellow Tail was slightly better although not firmed-up anymore, you can see from the fish cells.
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其實,朋友同自巳有啲認為-呢到可以煮成更上一層樓的.. idea又驚喜,不常見的食物種類又多.
希望下次食晚飯'會席'的時候,
師傅功力會升番多嘟,
咁就掂喇.
Because the Dinner sounds very promising.
As it is - this particular lunch, around a high 3 to low 4.
张贴
