g.e (gastronomy extra|ordinaire) (已結業)

是我第1次认真试一餐份子料理, 失望而回。不能说他们的东西不好吃, 但总括而言我真系唔知自己食过D乜。 呢度有3个唔同theme既房, 老细好有心机同做左好多功课, 是浮夸, 但夸得起。 印象深刻是那银色的房, 你说古典又不是, 你说现代又却带经典古式元素, contemporary classic? 或者好多人都会比玩味什重的旋转挂钟所吸引, 但其实整餐厅的华丽不只单一角落的高贵。 如果按装修的话, 可能系全香港我最喜欢既餐厅, 除了ICC101的田字头日本餐外。我故意不看menu, 让我的朋友去点餐, 就看看不像蚝的蚝有否蚝味。 结果是强差人意! 你说食物的presentation, 其实还有更多改进空间, 至于味道方面我不懂欣赏。这道菜, 不知什么名堂, 但卖相让我想起中学时代上美术课后, 清洁的那画面。 不是不漂亮, 是有点虚无缥缈, 想不到红的有点瓜味, 黄色的有点肉味! 真是测试味蕾的最好时候, 而楼下的爆炸糖, 竟然是清淡得没什么味道。终于知道这是什么, 是我杯茶, 因为我吃steak是喜欢raw, 只要四边稍熟就可以了, 柔软得像棉花糖一样, 扒的质素很高没半点腥或异味, sauce很清淡, 吃过这碟菜后觉得师傅的非分子料理更好吃。 继续阅读

女友和我喜欢周围试新嘢，今次晚餐选择咗 ge环境不俗，很有特色餐牌分 Tasting Menu 及 A la Carte...我和女友选了８course tasting menu $1300 per person，但全程你唔知食ma，要等每道菜上的时候才会知道。我和女友不是十分喜欢这样的安排，最低限度也应该事先让我们知道每度菜的主材料...最终我们是消费者 (要比钱埋单)食物方面: 不是我们杯茶，太过偏重分子料理。当要用真功夫烹饪时 (例如 sweet bread) 就不合格招呼方面：个 waitress 介绍每道菜都唔清唔楚 (可能唔知道菜系甚么都唔定) 又细声，女友话次次都听唔道佢讲ma 埋单连酒水及加一 $5131.5 (这个价钱大把选择)，另外酒水方面的价钱比较偏贵餐厅每个地方也有不同的主题和装饰有创意...Italian Egg Yolk, Chicken Consomme & Preserved Ginger 卖相十分，味道零分完全唔知食紧系芦笋，因为系分子料理。女友突然间叫我跟住去打边炉，我问佢点解...佢话Ｄ嘢唔好食，得𠮶样又唔饱Brill, Squids, Spinach & Black Ink Sauce 这个算是全晚最好的一道菜Sweet Bread & Artichoke，Sweet Bread 过咗火，又老又旱而且味道麻麻卖相不错，但你唔知食紧 ma，因为无 menu 而个 waitress 又介绍得唔清唔楚 继续阅读

奇妙乐园一般是用来形容主题公园, 但是夜参与尝味晚宴的餐厅 G.e, 真的用得上这个称号, 当然还有其美轮美奂的室内的设计, 几个独特场景的主题房间, 在奇妙乐园之上还要添加"华丽"这个形容词才更合适, 能够在这里和几个食友共渡惊喜万分的一夜, 确要谢谢餐厅和公关的邀请.餐厅位于帝乐文娜公馆2楼, 本身公馆的设计已经极尽前卫, 特意选择由楼梯登上餐厅, 从中感受更多既古亦今的场景气氛. 由正门步入餐厅, 先到达了酒吧区, 亲切的公关和其他食友在这里先交谈一会, 之后便引领我们步入用餐区; 大致分作四个空间, 每个都有不同主题, 我们亦有幸参观了其中三间, 最浪漫美丽的一间Eden, 是夜有客人使用, 无缘跟她近距离接触...我们被安排在Black "黑房"中用餐, 因灯光实在偏暗, 餐厅特意把光线调光一点, 让我们能容易一些拍照, 贴心的关注. 是夜品尝的是每位$999 的尝味menu, 食物由意籍主厨Ganluigi Bonelli 发板, 有点像日本的Omakase course 一样, 不同的是, 这里的菜式经常转变, 只要大厨灵感一到, 便会有新菜式出现, 所以今次能吃到的, 下次来的时候, 未必再有机会品尝, 绝对要好好细味每道菜的真髓.G.e 做的是Progressive Cuisine, 不属于任何一个国家的料理, 亦不属于任何一个派系的烹调手法, 他就是有他的一套, 不会拘泥于形式限制, 以无形胜有形, 一种食材放在Bonelli手里, 会变化出万个可能, 心里不禁充满期待!!未正式进入用餐前, 先喝了餐厅为我们安排的香槟, 在迷人的情调下, 再给酒精陶醉一下, 心里的快乐指数迅速提升, 一个美好的开始.先送上逗嘴小吃 Amuse bouche, 侍者送上一朵玫瑰花和一个样子像沙冰的小吃; 美丽的玫瑰花未放进嘴里, 已经逗得在场的女士们连眼睛都微笑起来, 再把她往嘴里送, 原来是一颗海绵蛋糕, 口感软软绵绵, 舌头尝到夹杂著植物清新和鲜肉咸香的味道, 既复杂又醉人, 连我也笑了.另一个用细长酒杯盛著的沙冰, 要用匙羹直插进底部, 把几层不同味道的夹层一起送进口里, 尝到了柠檬和热情果的清新, 再加上冰冻的口感, 一下子把炎夏的热力, 迅间冷却起来, 换来是透心凉的微笑.G.e 继续发挥"你估我唔到"精神, 突然来了一个用外卖盒盛著的炸香芋片给我们品尝, 我们一口香槟一口炸芋片, 感觉有如在老友家中, 把酒欢聚, 加上香芋片带浓郁的芋香, 脆口但不油腻, 多吃也没问题, 让我们更加放松的环节.先上第一道菜my color, 是属于意籍主厨的颜色, 由绿, 白, 红组成的构图, 清楚联想到意大利国旗; 新鲜的火箭菜鲜甜爽口，水牛芝士外滑，内里呈糖心蛋状态，是保持得不错的burata, 芝士冰带来新鲜口感；蕃茄用三个不同状态呈现眼前，有干蕃茄，鲜蕃茄，还有蕃茄冰，蕃茄粉丝必定感动；但奇妙处还不只于此，当各种味道混合起来的时候，会产生更多预计不到的味道变化，我们就在一片惊喜中，完成了这道＂我的颜色＂。经过意大利国旗的洗礼之后，侍者放了些茶碗在台上，随之注入热腾腾的流质液体，当大家以为是汤品，又一次... 估错了。过了约5分钟，侍者再把另一半顶层放在茶碗上面，组合了一个像香座的摆设。观赏过后再把它一分为二，先品尝底层，白色流质已变成半固体，试吃一口，原来是豆腐，再吃深一点，还有三文鱼子在底部，鲜香混杂著豆香，让人回味的享受。上层则放了些蚬肉，旁边伴著椰奶和蓝色爆谷，很海洋的颜色；把它们拌匀后同吃，很有泰国料理的味道，也突出了蚬肉鲜甜，同样喜欢的头盘。惊喜停不了, 侍者端上了一个长身弧形的玻璃罩, 里面烟雾迷漫, 看不清内里是甚么... 过了一会, 侍者打开了玻璃罩, 原来入面放的是牛油, 经过烟熏后的牛油充满著苹果木香, 涂在薄薄脆片上同吃, 口腔内弥漫著牛油香, 苹果木香, 脆片的咸香, 与别不同的美味.房间突然传来一阵松露香气, 原来是随之而来的料理味道, 黑松露, 粟米慕丝和粟米饼, 还有巴马火腿, 又是想也没有想过的组合, 但却美味非常, 为我们的味觉记忆添上新的资料.之后是一式三组的料理, 对, 虽然名为六道菜的晚餐, 但实际吃了多少道菜已经有点模糊了, 这也是其中一个好玩之处. 三样料理均为一口份量, 小巧精型; 先品尝带子刺身, 带子肉本身爽口清甜, 调味带一点点辣, 另外还附有一个带蔬菜味的字母, 联想起小时侯爱吃的字母通心粉; 之后试吃用切碎的墨鱼做的意大利饭, 鲜甜的墨鱼汁配衬弹牙的墨鱼肉, 又是一个亮点; 最后试吃了带子天妇罗, 薄薄的炸皮轻轻地包裹著带子肉, 外脆内鲜, 同样满足.再来了一个间场小吃, 牛油果打成的忌廉配合黑鱼子, 舌头品尝了咸, 鲜, 甜, 还有牛油果的丰厚感觉, 让人兴奋的小点.之后连续品尝了两个主菜, 先上是Flat, 清蒸龙脷鱼放中间, 四边放了多种食材, 丰富的组合; 浓缩了蟹脂汁液, 最叫人惊叹, 另外蔬菜全部能尝到植物的绿色味道; 反而鱼肉不会有太大惊喜, 尚可以做得更出色.另一个主菜是羊肉, 能吃到羊肉的膻香味, 肉质嫩滑, 和著伴碟的芒果汁同吃, 教我们著迷了!!到了让人心动的甜品时间, 先上是甜品前的甜品, 一个小杯盛著乳酪和红桑子酱, 酸酸甜甜的味道, 配搭幼滑的口感, 有让舌头焕然一新的感觉.真正的甜品终于出场了, 另类的黑森林, 用朱古力雪糕伴一片薄薄的威化饼, 两旁还有甜美的樱桃, 软绵绵的绵花糖, 上面还放了一条朱古力意大利粉, 一个全新定义的黑森林味道, 让在坐每位都赞叹不已!最后的petit four 时间, G.e 还是忘不了给我们惊喜, 一块长方形的木板上分散地摆放了不同字母甜点, 骤眼看上去像是小孩子的学习玩具, 让人有回到童年时的感觉; 还有那一片片像咭片似的甜点, 也叫人难忘!! 还有一个像珠宝箱的盒子内, 珍而重之地放了几颗白色小圆球, 把它放在舌头上, 千万不要嘴嚼, 慢慢球体便会转化成浓浓的芒果汁液, 徐徐地流进身体内; 最好玩的是望著对座的食友把圆球放入嘴内, 又不敢嘴嚼, 眼内流露出像小孩子般天真无邪的期待, 很有意思的小甜点!!即使是到了最后, G.e 还不放过"你估我唔到"的方程式, 这次更是加倍地玩得淋漓尽致; 我们面前放了一个白色的小盘子, 里面有一颗像薄荷糖的东西, 之后上演了让我们低呼惊叫的一幕...太精彩, 太好玩的一顿尝味晚餐, 再一次谢谢餐厅的招待, 还有亲切, 风趣的两位公关, 为我们带来一夜欢乐; 一定会介绍更多爱吃, 爱玩的朋友来体验一下, 这个既是餐厅也是奇妙乐园的好地方. 继续阅读

.....Parma ham, polenta cake, black truffle - the unique aroma of black truffle was overwhelming and you couldnt help but 'wow' at the beautiful presentation of the dish. Tricoloured it was - brown, yellow and white, resembling earth and nature maybe? The white foam and meringue were processed milk, and the yellowish part were polenta cake processed in different ways. It was so complex and interesting - digging in was like adventuring down a dark alley, you simply dont know what to expect and what's ahead, but whatever you come by, they are AMAZING. Beneath the thinly sliced black truffle were parma ham, red cabbage and a mushy cake of - polenta, was it? I disremembered - all i know was that it was DELICIOUS, whatever it was made of. So far our food came in relatively 'conventional' containers until these. I decided to call these the 'Seafood Trio' as they were all seafood, scallop and squid to be more precise. First there was a silver spoon with scallop tartare, seasoned with chilli, and a letter 'c' made of - compressed broccoli? Damnit, it was SO refreshing. The letter C was extraordinary as you would have thought you were eating a stalk of broccoli, only that it had adapted a new rubbery texture. Next was the scallop tempura served on a light metal container which looked like a bloom's end to me. The coating was thin and the warm scallop was smooth and fresh, while the green bit on top was relatively cold, but the contrast in temperature further enhanced the complexity of the tempura that no sauce nor dippings were necessary anymore - thoughtful. Last was the squid ink risotto - at least that's what we were told it was. And it looked like it was with the grains of rice in it, and it was not until we all took a bite that Kenny told us it was all squid and no rice. Yes, they chopped the squid so finely until they resembled rice grains and cooked them in squid ink and lily bloom. I am not a big fan of lily bloom but together with the squid ink it tasted better than what I had thought it would be. Intermezzo - for refreshing our taste buds we were given avocado with caviar, poked on a transparent red plastic stick. The avocado was creamy and the unique freshness of caviar rushed out as the coating burst in your mouth - whoa. Stunning.Fish - we had steamed sole with crab bisque sauce, flowers, curry-flavoured pasta, and more flowers. Omgosh, the dish looked so floral and gardenly to me! What surprised me most as there was steamed white fungus in it and it was a very 'Chinese' ingredient - that's what 'globalization' means, i guess.The fungus was soft, and despite its pale colour it had picked up so much flavour from the broth and fish. The veggies and flowers were refreshing, and the steamed sole was light and soft. What surprised me the most was the brown jelly of crab bisque. Burst it with a fork, and the rich seafood flavor came rushing out. If only i had a spongy bread to soak up the bisque!Roast - lamb belly with mustard, ricotta cheese and etc. The three pieces of lamb looked dry and tough on appearance but they turned out to be almost the BEST lamb I have ever had.The meat was soft and tender, nicely roasted,having just the right amount of fat, and the unique taste of lamb was pleasantly intense - lamb lovers(like me!) would fall for this for sure! While the mustard sauce was light and succeeded in balancing the grease of the meat, the cubes of deep fried ricotta cheese was absolutely glamourous.The outer crust was of the perfect golden brown color and the interior was runny yet cheesy, and it was a funny contrast to the (unprocessed?) lump of whitish ricotta cheese by its side. The thin sweet potato crisp and the thick cut of steamed sweet potato were equally delicious. All in all - delicious and it is indeed something i'd crave for more!Refreshment before dessert - yogurt with raspberry compote to calm the palate and refresh the taste buds, also to prepare us for the upcoming desserts, something we had all been so looking forward to. We were asked to dig deep into the bottom of the cup so as to savour the different ingredients and flavours. And there it was - raspberry compote, perfect to eat with the tarty and light yogurt - was it greek yogurt? Anyway - I was completely refreshed and ready for whatever sweet that's coming up next, and hell yea i LOVE that cute little wooden spoon!Dessert - ah, so there we were at last! Chocolate, marshmallow, preserved cherry, crushed biscuit and etc. were what we had. The taste of it largely resembled the classic Black Forest but the texture was much, much more complex and interesting - first there was the creamy and rich scoop of chocolate ice cream sat on thin cocoa wafers, and beneath the crisps were nicely roasted mashmallows. You could never go wrong with chocolate and roasted mashmallows - remember the comforting smores we had whenever we go BBQ? now THIS tasted so much like the delicious snack beside the flames.The long dark brown string was a crispy 'chocolate speghetti', and the green thing was - guess what? - CELERY. OMGOSH! The pickled cherries had a subtle hint of liquor and was slightly bitter on the preserved skin, and the jelly (which looked like black pudding to me) where everything were sat on was unexpectedly smooth in texture and yet intensely COCOA-ish. And i love the yellowish sand-like biscuit crumbs - not very buttery and greasy but SO aromatic. oh my god.The Petit fours came on a heavy metal flat pan.At one corner there were thin light blue slices that looked more like glass than something edible. With several sprays of edible perfume they were magically transformed into - candies. YES, candies that melts on your tongue...wicked.The letters were milk chocolates while the coins were dark chocolate with runny caramel(?) fillings.The yellow citrus candies in edible transparent wraps was slightly chewy but oh-so-summerish and refreshing!What surprised me were the small cubes of green apple candies poked at the tip of the fine metal antenna. I would have considered it a decoration rather than something edible on the metal pan!And - guess what? The feast hadnt come to an end yet. We were brought a delicate jewel box and in there rested 6 pearls.We were asked not to bite nor chew but to let it melt on our tongue. 3 seconds and the crust burst open, and came rushing out was fresh and sweet mango juice. I went like 0,0 as i was completely SURPRISED. who'd expect to find mango sauce in a pearl?And at last came a final anticlimax which i think should be left for you to savour....it was the best way to end the feast of the night. We certainly had way more than 6 courses, each having a strong and unique character on their own, and all soooo thoughtfully cooked and beautifully arranged. It was fun guessing what was in the dish, so adventurous and stimulating, yet the flavour had not been compromised - tomatoes tasted like tomatoes, fish tasted like fish and lamb tasted like lamb. The only thing that had been played with were the textures and temperatures of the ingredients, and it could only be done and mastered if only you have complete knowledge of their chemical properties. My highest respect to Chef Bonelli - the alchemist, the magician, the mastermind behind the pleasant surprises and adventures I experienced throughout the night. You ROCK! 继续阅读

一改再改的g.e局，终于姗姗而来，吊足了胃口。之前亦在饮食杂志上听闻这间餐厅的背景与其主厨Chef Gianluigi Bonelli的光辉岁月，而所谓的progressive dining，又是怎样一种滋味？位于帝文娜公馆二楼，由四间风格迥异的主题房组成，或阴沉血腥，或明媚纯白，有宛如天堂的花之屋，亦有时光逆转的神秘火车。而我们一行六人，则要在黑漆漆的"Hell"进餐，正担心相机要悲剧之时，两位公关提出不如开灯以方便影相，委实是无言感激。用餐伊始，先来一杯香槟暖一暖胃，温润的酒香混合了蜜桃的香甜，想就此沉醉？未免为时过早了吧！天性爱花，看到羞答答的玫瑰，搂住红扑扑的海绵蛋糕，心也随即砰砰的跳；可却不容得含蓄，将整块蛋糕摆入口中，去感受那绵绵的、几乎可以融化的红菜头之清甜，间中又隐匿著浅浅的咸香，那滋味，溢于言表。甜与咸以外，也送上几许夏日的酸爽，柠檬味道的泡沫悬浮于以热情果与芒果调和而成的冰沙之上，去化解浓浓的暑意等开胃菜的当儿，也不忘送来一小盒炸芋头片，香口之余飘散著几丝芋香，炸得干爽而表面不带一丁点油，你说这是fine dining?怎么还传来『喀吃喀吃』嚼薯片的声响？小食过后，又是色彩绚烂的一道，火箭菜的深绿、水牛芝士的纯白再配上蕃茄的火红，轻柔的在你耳边低语——“Italian”；更忘不了水牛芝士幻化而来的雪花融化于口的一霎，抑或是红宝石盒内蕃茄雪芭倾洒而出的一刻。与绚丽对应的，是纯白又素净的豆腐花，柔滑的外衣下，隐藏著几颗淘气的三文鱼籽，为纯净的豆香注入一丝海洋的气息另一边，蚬贝与椰奶则带来另一番滋味，以浓郁的椰香衬托出蚬的鲜甜，而两块蓝得耀眼的爆谷脆，带著几分玩味与稚气，唱著一曲海之狂想。以为就这样沉醉于海洋的气息，蓦地挤入一股的浓烈的烟薰味，彷佛中学化学实验课上那熟稔的气味，定睛一看，原来是这四四方方的牛油在捣鬼。聚集的热度令其柔而不溶，涂抹在薄身咸香的脆片上，恍惚吃到带点木头气息的焦香醉人的夜晚，又怎能少得了黑松露的迷情？难解的是这次的主角却是本来貌不惊人的粟米，经厨师的一双妙手，或打磨成慕斯，或做成糕点，那质朴、甜丝丝的粟米香，与矜贵幽深的黑松露恍如天上人间，被俗气香艳的帕尔玛火腿拉到一起，构成了这妙不可言的碰撞。随后一阵海风又袭过，带来的竟是最爱的带子，并非纯净的鲜甜，却夹杂著一丝辣意。至于为何是Letter H，James快言快语：Coz you're a happy girl！清凉过后，再尝尝热气喷香的带子天妇罗，粉浆外衣酥脆而单薄，全然挡不住内里的爽甜与鲜嫩而后欣喜的看到心仪的墨汁意大利饭，本还期待那al dente的口感，谁知，入口竟然是充满弹性，原来那看似饱满的小圆米粒，是由切碎的墨鱼伪装而来。浅浅的一碟吞下去，除了满嘴的鲜美，大概还有一口黑牙吧！也是时候令味蕾休憩片刻，送上入口有如雪糕般幼滑的牛油果酱，配以黑鱼子酱的鲜甜，不禁在想，之后等待我们的又是什么？原来是清蒸龙利鱼配蟹肉浓汤，辅以银耳、节瓜、意粉等食材，绘出一幅春意盎然的画卷。最惊艳是那醇厚的蟹肉浓汤，浓缩了蟹膏的浓香，连蘸上它的银耳也变得无比鲜美。只可惜主角煮得稍久，少了鱼肉该有的嫩滑，有点失色了。海味要鲜，而羊肉，当然是要膻的才好吃，要再带上一点饱含脂香的腩，堪称完美。仅有膻还不够，还要再添一丝酸甜清爽的芒果酱，配上ricotta cheese的浓滑…怎么越饱却越精彩？懒理偷偷鼓起来的肚皮，心却开始雀跃，味蕾也开始跳舞。而这令我怦然心动的魔鬼原来是朱古力慕斯伴车厘子与朱古力雪糕，将朱古力的甘醇浓厚、樱桃的甜美多汁、棉花糖的细软缠绵、以及饼碎的细腻喷香融于一体。经典的黑森林组合，却被主厨重造出如此的精彩。末了，是更加玩味十足的petit four，最难忘记的却是最不起眼的一小粒绿色啫哩，怎料到入口一化开，是紫苏叶的气味。那独特的甘香叫醒了方才的甜梦，是时候收场了。哪知，还不是终点。摆在神秘盒中的，是晶莹剔透的珍珠，也是甜美香浓的白巧克力，融化的那一霎，涌出来的竟是香甜清爽的芒果汁。主厨带给我们最后的视觉宴席，是遇水会膨胀开来的湿纸巾，可别太嘴馋，把它也一并吞下去了…这一夜，身陷地狱，邂逅的却是恍如置身仙境的奇遇。你说这所谓的progressive dining，又是怎样一种滋味？ 继续阅读