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2010-02-28
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有天, 本應是想行過來這邊, 去食好旺角麵家的, 但臨到入門口又打了退堂鼓, 因為那日唔想食太甜嘅嘢. 個人應為好旺角個炸醬好味得嚟有點甜, 最好自己加點醬油, 但同時它真係特別又幾 Addictive! 看見生龍清湯腩 , 想起喺深水埗見過佢新開張, 但未是太有興致試. 主要是因為無睇清楚佢個牌? 但這天無意中看清楚了, 知道可能早期是走了寶也未定? 如你見到以下生龍清湯腩主打的招數, 也會有同感? : - 絕不含味精- 店是用新鮮牛腩- 牛腩湯是用牛骨, 豬骨, 老雞及疏菜cook 十幾小時- 蕃茄豬膶牛肉麵也全用新鮮貨- 雲吞是有豬肉, 大蝦同散尾- 雲吞麵湯底是用新鮮豬骨, 蝦角, 大地魚, 羅漢果, 蝦子, 瑤拄煲的.- 蝦籽是採用塔門一級貨色- 牛腩有得叫廋, 半肥廋 或 淋啲的...etc***************************** 4.5/5 蝦籽牛腩撈麵 - (廋腩): I have actually been quite disappointed with the quality of 蝦籽撈 in Hong Kong in gen
- 絕不含味精
- 店是用新鮮牛腩
- 牛腩湯是用牛骨, 豬骨, 老雞及疏菜cook 十幾小時
- 蕃茄豬膶牛肉麵也全用新鮮貨
- 雲吞是有豬肉, 大蝦同散尾
- 雲吞麵湯底是用新鮮豬骨, 蝦角, 大地魚, 羅漢果, 蝦子, 瑤拄煲的.
- 蝦籽是採用塔門一級貨色
- 牛腩有得叫廋, 半肥廋 或 淋啲的
...etc
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4.5/5 蝦籽牛腩撈麵 - (廋腩):
I have actually been quite disappointed with the quality of 蝦籽撈 in Hong Kong in general. The 1st shop which springs into mind is the very over-rated but very low quality 蝦籽麵 in SSP's 劉森記. The 蝦籽 there have absolutely no aroma or umami taste at all, the noodles are bland despite hand-made, the soup there also plain and below-par - the only remotely likeable thing is their 兵乓球雲吞, which has some 蝦籽 inside too as well as their pickles. Having tried most famous shops by now, I would say 麥奀雲吞麵's 蝦籽撈 is one of the better ones but even that is by no means close to being Great: their poor quality noodles aren't good enough for one. The soup on occasion is also way overly-salty and too bitter, due to the prolonged boiling with 大地魚 influence. There is also no aroma from the Pork Oil at 麥奀. Then if we jump to Macau, at 祥記麵家, the noodles aka Macanese style are good as a package overall, except the soup is absolutely wrecked with MSG and layer-less, the 蝦籽 quality on the other hand are completely rubbish and without taste just like 劉森記, defeating the purpose of ordering such a dish - the noodle's dish only salvaged by that good quality pork oil and soy-sauce mixture and crunchy noodles. 六記 on the other hand, must have the most addictive, most aromatic and tastiest 蝦籽 I've EVER tried within Hong Kong and Macau, at least on the surface. 但大多數人跟本不知道，其實很多時市面上比夠有香味同鹹香味的蝦籽, 實質是依賴外來味精或鹽或添了蝦糕炒的，有點兒取巧 - 澳門六記便是最佳例子 - 對，它是好吃及香，但味道有點靠了味粉，就連肉眼也可看得出來. 六記's Noodles were also the most aromatic of eggs I've ever tried too (I'll explain why this is so in a future review 1 day ) - but unfortunately they were just so flappy and lifeless on 2 occasions, and the soup was utterly boring. 北角佳記's version meanwhile, also lacks good quality 蝦籽 and the soup is ordinary, but their noodles are top notch quality. 楊記麵家 on the other hand, has relatively better quality 蝦籽 but the noodles and soup are too commercialised.
So imagine my surprise when I ate the 蝦籽麵 here. The soup was quite good with layering. The 蝦籽 was aromatic even to the nose, much like 六記's one, and it tasted like what it should be like - with a dense, concentrated umami flavouring, albeit still not enough but at least better than the rubbish version at 劉森記 and even 祥記麵家. The noodles here, were also very thin and tasty, almost resembling the ultra thin version at 麥兆記, but here the noodles were more aromatic, also combed through with a bit of Pork Oil (confirmed its pork oil, not vegetable or sesame oil).
But let's just say that, the 蝦籽+麵+湯 package I received from this shop = the overall No.1 Shop I've tried in HK and Macau so far, which is surprising as its relatively unknown, but instead of giving this shop credit I would blame it on the low quality of other shops. Only 六記 and 麥奀中環 can be 相睇並論. The fresh Beef Brisket too, which I shouldn't neglect since its another one of the signature dishes, was also really strong of beef brisket taste and very good, again surpassing my expectations.
4/5 牛腩湯:
This came with the above dish, which is surprising but I guess they needed to either give out the prawn soup or beef soup 1 way or another with the above combo'd meal I ate. This had a strong beefy bone character but not very oily. Its a very good broth in my opinion with some layering, but there was way too much white pepper, which it didn't need and spoiled an otherwise ok-good soup.
2/5 凈雲吞:
Unlike the beef brisket and prawn roe noodles above, this was quite disappointing.
The prawns vs pork ratio is around 80/20. Unfortunately, the prawns tasted like they were 急凍去殼蝦 - the shop says otherwise but I honestly don't believe them, because the only prawns which can give this rough, almost pre-cooked like texture and taste, usually comes from 急凍去殼蝦, even if 急凍有殼蝦 are quite satisfactory for me. These wontons were very below standard in terms of freshness of filling and taste, they were also 散收收 inside, breaking apart. The so-called 散尾 wonton tail here also looked better than it taste, the wonton skin was too thick and commercial, it has nothing on the ones at 麥兆記. Very disappointed.
4/5 雲吞湯:
This on the other hand, showed a bit of promise. I will say that so far, I have never tried a very very good soup when it comes with wonton noodles. The Mak An noodle's one comes closest, but as said above, it can be overly salty and very bitter on occasions. The version here is more subtle or even blander, but carries layers if you look for it depper rather than just outright pungent and 1 dimensional. Relatively speaking, the one served here already shows some heart and thoughtfulness, though still far from great.
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I also bought home some Prawn Roes to take home, which from my experience is similar in standard to the Mak An version - it costs $50 for 兩両, whereas the Mak An's version is $80 per blue bottle. The one served here is more aromatic even.
Overall - this shop shows more promise and attention to details than I had imagined, and I like it when shops don't use any MSG as enhancement whenever possible - even though MSG does work well in certain scenarios. The 蝦籽麵 served here was way above my expectations and heaps and bounds better than the 有樣睇但無料到的劉森記 version.
张贴
