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2025-07-06
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There are not a lot of restaurants offering Nordic cuisine in HK, and many years ago I went to one which was memorable. Unfortunately it was closed now, but their Chef Jim Lofdahl has since opened Embla at the same spot, and today we came to Upper Station Street to see whether the restaurant can still maintained the magic that took me away in the prior visit.The general layout and décor looks familiar. Apart from the dining tables, there is a preparation space with counter seats where the diners
There are not a lot of restaurants offering Nordic cuisine in HK, and many years ago I went to one which was memorable. Unfortunately it was closed now, but their Chef Jim Lofdahl has since opened Embla at the same spot, and today we came to Upper Station Street to see whether the restaurant can still maintained the magic that took me away in the prior visit.
The general layout and décor looks familiar. Apart from the dining tables, there is a preparation space with counter seats where the diners can look at the activities closely and enjoy conversations with the chefs. In no time the whole restaurant is fully occupied, testimony to their popularity.
The Dinner Menu ($1,288) has four courses, with each course having two options so it allows diners plenty of choices. I also go for their wine pairing ($1,088), as well as the traditional Swedish dish Gubbrora ($850), or ‘Gentleman’s Delight’ as a canape. To pair, we have a shot of the award-winning Gustav Dill Vodka from Finland.
Served on a glass bowl, Gubbrora is a mixture of smoked eel, pickled herring, eggs, dill, and chives, with complex and great taste. On top are a layer of prized Ossetra Caviar from the Royal Caviar Club, with interesting nutty flavours plus savoury. The dill puree further adds a layer of fragrance. Scooping a small spoon onto the crisp rye bread, it is so delicious I cannot help but want to lick the whole bowl clean. A must order.
Pairing for the starters is Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve. This champagne has fine and persistent bubbles, with nice aromas of freshly baked brioche, citrus and green apple, along with some almonds and nuts. A good versatile NV champagne.
The first Amuse Bouche is a Broccoli Tart, with some shrimps and a touch of the prized Ossetra Caviar on top. The crunchy tart has a nice contrast with the soft texture of the shrimps, while its sweetness are complemented with the savoury from the caviar. A very nice starter.
The second Amuse Bouche is Danish Pancake, being in a classic ball shape, warm and buttery, with some rainbow trout shreds inside. On top is a slice of smoked rainbow trout fillet, further with some rainbow trout tartar on top. Of its size, eating the whole piece in one bite poses a big challenge for even the guys, but it is so tasty I want to order another one straight away.
Pairing for the first course is Stellenrust Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2023, from South Africa. This bottle uses grapes from a single vineyard planted in 1964, exhibiting rich and creamy body, with notes of lemon rind, flint, peaches and some development of honey.
While my wife has smoked shrimp, for the first course I go for Cured Yellowtail (supplement $200). The fish fillet is thinly sliced, and together with mandolin-sliced spring radish, are made to a flower shape, and decorated with some trout roes. Finishing with the essence of the elderflower which provides nice acidity and freshness, it is elegant on presentation, with wonderful taste. Amazingly good.
Next comes the Sour Milk Bread. This Swedish bread is irresistibly delicious, with a crumbly crust, a soft and sweet inside, and together with a bit of butter applied, the rich flavours are simply fantastic, and I told the staff that they should consider selling these like a bakery.
Pairing for the second course is Domaine Joseph Pascal Puligny-Montrachet 2023. With the white Bourgogne beautifully highlighting the terroir of the village, it has a crisp acidity, with lime blossoms and yuzu leading to apple and some subtle oak.
For the second course my wife has chosen turbot while I picked Norwegian Langoustine. The langoustine is rich with umami and sweet in taste, with the poppy slow-cooked teardrop peas to provide a great contrast in texture, sitting on a sugar kelp bouillon with pea oils. The peas are also mixed with peaso, a miso-like fermented paste made from peas, adding its unique flavours. Very nice.
Pairing for the third course is R. Lopez De Heredia Vina Tondonia Vina Bosconia Reserva 2021. With a deep ruby colour, this Rioja wine has a nice nose, full-bodied with lots of mature fruit. Perfect match with lamb.
For the third course my wife has picked the wagyu striploin while I go for Dry Aged Lamb. The lamb has been dry aged for 10 days to intensify the flavours, then wrapped with wild garlic leaves to roast to medium rare, very tender and succulent, and paired with a lamb jus with rosemary sauce. On the side is stuffed morel mushroom and green asparagus. This I think is the better option compared with the wagyu.
Included in the menu is coffee or tea, with the inspiration from the Swedish ritual of ‘Fika’. Served in a French press, the 100% Kenya coffee is roasted in Sweden, fragrant and nice, and paired with Madeleine. Its size is much larger than the typical ones from French restaurant, but very nicely made, soft and fluffy, with dusted sugar on the surface.
The dessert is Rapeseed Oil Sorbet with some rose water poached rhubarb at the bottom, having a nice sweet and sour balance of the rhubarb to add to the delicate taste of the sorbet. Decorated with a few meringues in the shape of twigs, and further supplemented with a vanilla and rose mousse, it is a great finale to a wonderful meal which we enjoy every individual course to the full extent.
Service is very good, with the staff friendly and eager to chat with us, introducing the dishes and making fun, creating a lively and happy dining experience. The bill on the night is $5,680 and a bit on the high side, but considering the quality of the food, it is still a place I would recommend, especially if you would like to try Nordic cuisine.
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