After 8 months, the legendary L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon is back this September. Staying on the 4/F of the Landmark atrium, the restaurant has an expanded layout and an extensive wine list of 17, 000 bottles.I reserved a seat at the kitchen counter. The interior is painted red and black, giving a subtle yet luxurious feel. The counter array offers guests an extended view of the kitchen's inner workings. While the setting is cozy, the close proximity to fellow diners can be too intimate; lack of elbow room between guests may compromise privacy.I opted for three courses and decided to go with the classics. To start, I was offered a generous assortment of bread. The standout to me was the mini croissant, which was crispy, fluffy and buttery. The bacon baguette was also well-seasoned, featuring the right amount of saltiness with a satisfying chewy crumb.The classic Foie Gras Royale served as the amuse bouche. It featured a foie gras mousse base, topped with port wine reduction and parmesan foam. The parmesan emulsion, while intensely flavorful, maintained a light texture that harmonized with the rich foie gras to create a layered savory profile. While the salt level of the dish could be a bit too much to start the meal, it established a promising foundation for the upcoming courses.Next was the iconic Le Caviar Imperial. The appetizer combined a lobster consommé jelly base with king crab at the center, finished with caviar and cauliflower purée dots.The dish balanced the salinity of the lobster jelly with the sweetness of the crab, delivering a sophisticated taste of the ocean. The caviar, in fact, was far from a luxurious flourish. It provided intense umami that elevated the entire composition to another level of harmony and depth. A highly memorable plate.For the main course, I decided to go with Le Pigeon. The dish combined slow-cooked pigeon breast with foie gras and garlic confit. An accompanying leg piece, glazed in honey and soy sauce, was juicy, tender and crispy. The interplay between the rich foie gras, sweet grapes, and mellow garlic was exceptional, evoking a sophisticated, garden-like sensory experience. The dish was truly the highlight of the meal.Served with the pigeon was the signature Puree De Pomme. The potato puree was buttery, rich yet velvety and light. It was arguably among the best purees I’ve ever had.Instead of dessert, I went with Les Fromages; basically a fine selection of cheese. Rather than the cheese trolley, I was served a plated assortment of three cheeses, paired with walnuts, fruits, and more bread. A minor critique would be the bread; it arrived somewhat dry and cold. Warm, crusty bread, or crackers could have provided better textural contrast to the dish.My meal concluded with a double-shot espresso and petit fours, which included two macarons and a madeleine. The coffee and the mignardises complemented each other well, showing balance and harmony.Service at the restaurant was solid. Staff were friendly and attentive; I was pleased to be offered extra bread to take away. Moreover, given the restaurant's established reputation, my expectations were slightly higher. For example, I expected the petit fours to be served after I had finished the cheese course. Also, I felt there could be more interaction between the staff and guests to elevate the dining experience.My experience at L'Atelier was very positive. While there is always room for refinements, it remains one of the best dining destinations in Hong Kong, and I eagerly anticipate my next visit.…查看更多
