Last time we stepped through these doors, Caprice was still under the direction of Executive Chef Vincent Thierry and the restaurant still has its 3 Michelin stars.But with the disappointing departure of their commander from its opening day roster, new Chef de Cuisine Fabrice Vulin now has the daunting task of reclaiming its lost star and more importantly, regain the reputation as the best French fine dining restaurant in Hong Kong.Well-traveled Chef Vulin is well known for starting two successf
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Last time we stepped through these doors, Caprice was still under the direction of Executive Chef Vincent Thierry and the restaurant still has its 3 Michelin stars.
But with the disappointing departure of their commander from its opening day roster, new Chef de Cuisine Fabrice Vulin now has the daunting task of reclaiming its lost star and more importantly, regain the reputation as the best French fine dining restaurant in Hong Kong.
Well-traveled Chef Vulin is well known for starting two successful restaurants in Marrakesh, Morocco but it was his work at Michelin starred Maison Pic and La Chèvre d'Or, that has earned the praise of foodies from around the world. From his newly launched menu, we are expecting a modern French cuisine with its fair share of Mediterranean and Moroccan touches.
There are two lunch sets available on top of the a la carte menu, a 2-course set at $495 and 3-course set at $560. Although the desserts didn't look promising at the first glance, we went for the longer 3-course set.
As soon as we made up our minds on our appetizers and main courses, the staff wasted no time serving up our first (and last) nibble of the afternoon - toasted baguette with heirloom tomatoes (2/5).
I was a little surprised that they decided to serve just a simple nibble as amuse bouche. Perhaps I was living the dream of dining at some of these top French restaurants where the amuse bouche usually consisted of a number of interesting nibbles. This was utterly disappointing.
Our highly anticipated lunch finally kicked off starting with a French Tourteau crab jelly, potato leek salad and Vichysoisse.
I have always enjoyed Caprice's French Tourteau crab themed dishes in the past but this was a little too bland. Perhaps something exotic like mango or yuzu would help to bring out the best of the Tourteau crab (3/5).
Warm duck foie gras with quince confit and muscat grapes in a "natural" jus was next. The slice of foie gras was perfectly seared with the quince confit and muscat grapes providing a nice complement to the rich taste of the foie gras.
But little that I knew, it would be the best dish of the afternoon (4/5).
Both of our main courses had a little bit of Italian twist to it. First, it was a seafood fregola sarda served in a shellfish bouillon.
The fregola sarda is a type of pasta from Sardinia, Italy that looks and tastes like couscous. I like the idea of serving Canadian lobster, king prawns and squid together with the pasta but the shellfish bouillon had got to be a little more dominant (3/5).
I misread the menu badly and thought this was a dish with a Bresse chicken leg served alongside a few foie gras ravioli but as it turned out, the meat from the Bresse chicken leg was inside the ravioli. Oops.
This was the total opposite of the previous dish where some of the flavors (the foie gras and pancetta emulsion in particular) were a little too overpowering (3/5).
I was rather disappointed when I saw "rhum baba" and "chocolate brownie" in the dessert section. A little boring, don't you think? But it was a pleasant surprise in disguise.
Instead of a traditional rhum baba, I was getting a slice of rhum baba infused with passion fruit cream and served with yuzu sorbet, exotic fruits, coconut cream and almond crumble. A extremely well-prepared dessert both in terms of flavor and presentation with the various textures providing a lovely variety of taste and intensity (4.5/5).
Layered Ocoa chocolate brownie with ocoa marshmallow, blackberry mousse and banana ice-cream was a symphony of delightful textures and contrasting flavors that was both exciting and enjoyable (4/5).
Finally, petite fours including a piece of chocolate with chestnut cream and marshmallow on top, a blueberry macaron with blueberry jelly and blueberry confit and a toffee candy with crushed walnuts before we settled the bill.
Not the exciting brand of French cuisine I was dreaming of. The delivery was good and the quality was Michelin star worthy but definitely not 3-star caliber.
(以上食记乃用户个人意见 , 并不代表OpenRice之观点。)
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张贴
评分
味道
环境
服务
卫生
抵食
用餐日期
2014-10-18
等候时间
10 分钟 (堂食)
人均消费
$560 (午餐)
推介美食
Warm duck foie gras with quince confit and muscat grapes in a ''natural'' jus
rhum baba
Amuse bouche
French Tourteau crab jelly, potato leek salad and Vichysoisse
Warm duck foie gras with quince confit and muscat grapes in a ''natural'' jus
seafood fregola sarda served in a shellfish bouillon
Bresse chicken leg and foie gras ravioli
rhum baba
Layered Ocoa chocolate brownie with ocoa marshmallow, blackberry mousse and banana ice-cream
Went to this lovely French restaurant with my mum on Wednesday. It is a bright, elegant restaurant with great ambience. The Amuse Bouche was first served. Topped with cherry tomatoes, morzerella cheese and olive oil, it's a very simple and light appetiser.Shortly, a selection of bread was served with salted and non-salted butter. The bread was slightly warm. The round olive bread was soft and has a strong aroma. The sesame bread was crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. The appetisers w
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Went to this lovely French restaurant with my mum on Wednesday. It is a bright, elegant restaurant with great ambience.
Shortly, a selection of bread was served with salted and non-salted butter. The bread was slightly warm. The round olive bread was soft and has a strong aroma. The sesame bread was crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside.
The appetisers were then served. I had the Tuna Carpaccio. It was beautifully presented. The tuna was transparent with a slight pink colour and the apple vinaigretta brought a slight sweetness and sourness to the dish. Quite impressive.
The warm duck foie gras was served with caramelised pear and muscat grapes.The pan-seared foie gras has a slightly crispy exterior and a creamy interior that melted in the mouth. The servings of the caramelised pear and grape also lightened the dish.
We both chose seafood as our main course. It was very nicely done indeed. The clear broth was surprisingly flavourful, with a natural saltiness and sweetness. There was also a hint of mint, which makes it very refreshing. The lobster was fresh and tender, and the king prawns were simply flavorsome.
When the Michelin guide this year announced that Caprice had lost a star it was a little startling to see one of the greats take a stumble. Ever since previous Chef de Cuisine Vincent Thierry decided to move on to new ventures everyone was wondering who would be taking over the reins at Caprice. Now with new chef Fabrice Vuilin ex-executive chef of the two star La Chèvre d’Orat the helm, will his new menu regain the much coveted third star for Caprice in 2015?Let's see.Some welcome appetisers to
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When the Michelin guide this year announced that Caprice had lost a star it was a little startling to see one of the greats take a stumble. Ever since previous Chef de Cuisine Vincent Thierry decided to move on to new ventures everyone was wondering who would be taking over the reins at Caprice. Now with new chef Fabrice Vuilin ex-executive chef of the two star La Chèvre d’Orat the helm, will his new menu regain the much coveted third star for Caprice in 2015?
Let's see.
Some welcome appetisers to begin with. Sardine milifeuille with squid ink jelly, puff with foie gras mousse and fried shrimp patties. The pastry at Caprice is always nicely done crisp buttery layers with the smooth sardine mousse. Not fishy to taste, but it lingered on the fingers afterwards so remember to ask for wet towels. The puff was nice too, choux pastry with a sweet crunchy crust holding a savoury foie gras mousse.
Amuse bouche of artichoke cream. Two layered, a chilled thick and full bodied cream at the top, while a more translucent soft jelly-like layer on the bottom. Refreshing to start with.
This was the bread I was waiting for~ Olive scroll and baguette. Never fails to please, especially when consumed with a healthy spread of creamy butter.
His choice of appetiser, Brittany lobster soup with ravioli of lemon confit. The soup although creamy was not quite thick enough, but the raviolis were plump with a zesty tang. Nice temperature.
My poached egg was beautifully presented crowned with a savoury sable cracker adorned with greens, diced pork, foie gras and mushrooms. The egg felt like it was hard-boiled, but slicing into it revealed a runny yolk centre adding its richness to the sauce. The flavours worked well, the plain egg giving a neutral counterbalance to the intense savoury flavours of the accompaniments, if the egg white had been poached more softly and the dish served hotter than lukewarm I would have liked it even more.
The escargot was served with compliments (thank you) and the somewhat forest-like presentation matched the use of ingredients. Unlike what most restaurants in Hong Kong would serve- garlic butter soaked snails where we have to pry them out of their shells, here they were de-shelled and scattered among mushrooms, Iberico ham and mossy mounds of herb brioche. Not drowning them in garlic butter allowed us to fully appreciate the natural sweet flavour of these molluscs before following up with the brioche which had a garlicky oil seeped into it. Again, if only this was served warmer...
For mains, his dish of poached scallops and shrimps on a bed of cauliflower mousseline was lovely. It looked so simple yet the scallops were velvety and sweet, the shrimps nice and bouncy with the fried shrimp head adding a textural crunch. Perfect if you are looking for something lighter.
I chose the braised oxtail cannelloni recommended by the Maitre' D and this was an extremely hearty dish. Three tubes of al dente pasta curled around a tender filling of pulled oxtail decorated with bits of bone marrow and strips of pancetta. The texture was quite sticky, requiring some effort to eat, but I guess that just meant it was full of collagen *pinches cheek*.
A little surprising to see chocolate fondant on the menu as it is now such a common dessert, but it came recommended so he chose this. A solid looking fondant with hints of its warm liquid center starting to leak out from the cracks. Intensely rich, the chocolate used was dark enough to leave enticing bittersweet tones on the tongue and when you are about to fall into a chocolate coma, turn to the sweet poached pears and cool Tahitian vanilla ice-cream to refresh yourself. I ate most of his
Feeling like something pastry for dessert I was a little disappointed that they did not serve a milefeuille anymore so I picked the substitute of strawberry tart. It was so pink! A trail of berry sorbet, dobs of cream and flavoured sugar crisps where the tart sat at the centre with a mane of strawberry slices fanning out. It looked better than it tasted. The tart base did not seem fresh, a little soft with no snap and the almond filling made the whole texture quite gummy. At least the strawberries were relatively sweet, but otherwise quite disappointed.
This was definitely not the best experience at Caprice and you can tell Chef Fabrice still needs time to assimilate with his new surroundings as well as tweaking his dishes to conform with the palate of the locals. Some of the dishes were served barely warm which was not ideal so hopefully they can improve on that, but otherwise service was welcoming and attentive as usual and the environment beautiful as always.
Frogs’ Legs Meunière, Boudin Blanc, Young Spinach Leaves and Black Truffle 另一款頭盤則選了田雞腳,其實平日的我不太吃的,覺得有點核突,但不知道甚麼原因,看到這道菜的名字又想試試。田雞腳的外層先抹上了香料,經過了deep fried,外層很香脆,肉質則很嫩滑帶juicy,咬著肥美小脾的感覺不錯;而白色泡則是由田雞汁打成的;白色泡泡下還有Boudin Blanc,那是田雞製成的白色肉腸,肉質就像平日
Slow cooked Pigeon Stuffed with Foie Gras, Black Truffle, Leek and Agria Millefeuille 接下來便到主菜,現在回想起,覺得那天點了太多肉,雖然我是食肉獸,但實在有點過份。鵝肝釀進了Pigeon中,雖然兩者的味道都很強,但卻異常的相配,所以只要拿掐得好,即使兩者很強,也不會搶去各自的味道,相反會更驚喜;鵝肝的數量不算很多,入口即化;而pigeon則超級軟稔,軟得像海綿一樣,pigeon的味道亦很強烈,雖沒甚麼油脂,但吃到最後竟然有點膩。那四方形的是leek+potato,兩者都煮至熟透。個人認為這道菜做得不俗,不怕強烈pigeon味道的你或者可以一試。
Korean Strawberry Napoleon, Yoghurt Cream, Aromatic Mint and Strawberry Sorbet Napoleon雖然在很多地方都可以品嚐,不過這個是filled with Yoghurt Cream,比較之下,我更喜歡這個版本,吃時沒有那樣的膩,不過亦不其然的吃得更多;而那三片的酥皮是非常鬆化,吃進入亦不會感到很油;而旁邊的Strawberry Sorbet則帶微酸,亦為了減低了不少的膩感。雖然拿破崙這個甜品很普通,但味道卻做得不錯,甜而不膩,我頗喜歡的。
四季酒店內的法國餐廳Caprice今年初在餐廳近入口的長走廊一邊間開了一個bar area,設有雲石吧枱和絲絨或皮梳化配矮枱。這邊的氣氛保留一貫Caprice的優雅高貴氣質,舒適之餘更多份輕鬆感。開放時間由每日下午5:30至午夜,可讓大家飯前飯後嘆杯酒及食吓芝士。這日我們坐在大落地玻璃窗前的梳化,雖然樓層矮所以景色不算最美,不過對著無遮擋的開陽中環碼頭、維港及對岸尖沙嘴景,都幾寫意。侍應的服務態度都很親切友善,細心為初訪Caprice Bar的我們作出介紹。這裡的menu相當簡單,有數款bar food小食($170-$480/款),如風乾火腿,凍批,黑松露炒蛋等,亦有數款法國芝士($210-$280/一款)及2款甜品($110/一款)。但說到主角,就一定非Caprice的法國芝士莫屬。我們雖然都喜歡吃芝士,不過並沒有太深入研究。與其要自己做選擇,我們都被menu上這個 'A bit of everything' ($280)吸引了。'A bit of everything'是由餐廳的芝士大師按顧客的口味和喜好從芝士櫃中選出6至7款芝士。就像我們都偏好軟身與味濃的芝士,芝士大師為我們選
這裡的menu相當簡單,有數款bar food小食($170-$480/款),如風乾火腿,凍批,黑松露炒蛋等,亦有數款法國芝士($210-$280/一款)及2款甜品($110/一款)。但說到主角,就一定非Caprice的法國芝士莫屬。我們雖然都喜歡吃芝士,不過並沒有太深入研究。與其要自己做選擇,我們都被menu上這個 'A bit of everything' ($280)吸引了。
'A bit of everything'是由餐廳的芝士大師按顧客的口味和喜好從芝士櫃中選出6至7款芝士。就像我們都偏好軟身與味濃的芝士,芝士大師為我們選了這7款不同地區的法國芝士。各款芝士香氣和味道都層次豐富,我們對很喜歡呢!芝士大師只與我們傾談了解一下後就可以為我們選來這麼合口味的芝士,果然夠專業!
我們只記得這日吃到的各款芝士都不是一般坊間餐廳或超市芝士店可以找到的,但是確實名稱就沒有記下。不過也無太大所謂,反正據芝士大師說,這裡的芝士款式會定期及根據季節轉換,所以隔一段時間來又會有新鮮感。我覺得這menu上這個按口味度身預備的'A bit of everything'芝士拼盤,一次過可以品嚐和體驗多款特色優質法國芝士,連加一才約$300,真是相當值得推介。