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2010-05-13
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WOK FRIED SWISS-SAUCE BEEF HOR FUN (瑞士汁干炒牛河) - 4.0The are 2 variants here, we ordered that version synonymous with 太平館's famous 瑞士汁干炒牛河. The beef had a good wok-chi, not overly sodarised but still tender, it rest upon a thick Sweetish-Swiss caramelised soy-sauce with a Meatiness and Gingeriness, this stock derived sauce definitely took no shortcuts with preparation. Hor Fun rice noodles were also enjoyable and the Mung Bean Sprouts remained crisp - indicating they were added to the wok at the
The are 2 variants here, we ordered that version synonymous with 太平館's famous 瑞士汁干炒牛河. The beef had a good wok-chi, not overly sodarised but still tender, it rest upon a thick Sweetish-Swiss caramelised soy-sauce with a Meatiness and Gingeriness, this stock derived sauce definitely took no shortcuts with preparation. Hor Fun rice noodles were also enjoyable and the Mung Bean Sprouts remained crisp - indicating they were added to the wok at the right timing, not thrown in so early that liquid has been drawn out from prolonged frying and become chewy, a problem I nit picked at Macau's 細龜.
WOK TOSSED DRIED SHRIMPS WITH CHINESE CHIVES (乾蝦豬肉炒韮菜花) - 3.5
This wasn't really 韮菜花, it was mostly 韮菜 and some of them were old. Fried together with a lot of minced 'fatty' pork, we were surprised at this shop's adherence to recreating authenticated versions of the dish, as fried pork fat creates much better taste and aroma, at the expense of health. It might sound contradictory but as a compromised eater who wants the best flavours but also needs to watch out for health, I find that at other places such as 民聲冰室's steamed pork patty its nigh on impossible to pick out the meat from the fat for eating. Here, however, I can simply not eat the solid fat, but still receive its taste contribution from the melted, healthier liquid fat much like when I eat Sukiyaki, Beef Bourguignon, Quiches, Pastas, etc., prepared with fried tallow, lard or lardon or anything carrying fat (goose fat, guanciale, butter.) Pastries requiring different fats for baking formation meanwhile is another topic, which I'm willing to compromise on. The semi-dried shrimps were very tasty here, but too skimpy in proportions.
DAILY SOUP (老火湯) - 4.2
This was surprisingly very good, mostly tasting of chicken, root vegetables and dates. It was sweet and had 0% MSG.
HONG KONG MILK TEA (香港奶茶) - 2.5
Wouldn't call this awesome but it was slightly aromatic and smooth, just not bold nor thick-bodied enough for some to be considered the real deal. At least it doesn't carry bitterness or a sour finish.
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One of my big findings last year was discovering that - Chinese Mainlanders really buy into our Hong Kong style 茶餐廳 concept as well as our 飲茶點心 restaurants, although most of them wouldn't be able to tell the minute differences or similarities between these with 冰室 or 大牌檔 in terms of food and settings. Up in China, 香港茶餐廳's have been all the rage for years and when our compatriots finally visit this city, they always schedule in a secret side trip to compare the genuine thing to those readily available in their cities. Whereas, many Western or other Asian tourists equally follow their guide books with listed To-Try-Dishes already and visit our street stalls 大牌檔 or open 24 Hours 點心 places as to them, THESE represent Hong Kong Culture - the middle-class hk citizens and what we survive on daily, however much false, real or idealised their expectations may be.
Hong Kong Canteen 香港飯堂 has no resident rickshaw lying on the familiar raw concrete floor as gew-gaw ornament like in 香港大牌檔, but rest assure eclecticism also crept in and found itself home here in the form of that miniature sized Tram with indented tram tracks, sitting alongside neo-lighting signages and antiquated G.O.D / 歲月神偷 style wall paintings. As if you didn't already find 香港大牌檔 too laid on thick with faux HK-Chinese deco and trinkets, here it can only be described as overdone - its a clustered mess. The originators who helped built the other place literally copied the same business model, tweaked it, then decided to play double-up anyway in the thought process. Even the cashier lady seems cloned from the original. (Just kidding: she's actually the same person, poached from the other place! ) Food quality meanwhile lacks the fiery and rusticated feel of the original, but then again it might suit tourists more than the locals.
張貼
