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2012-05-23
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Trust your gut feeling. 雞骨熬的清湯，與「鳥華」截然不同．醬油：正！I Initially wanted to try the ramen at Mutekiya at Sheung Wan after trying the newest branch at Wan Chai. The noodles there were quite nice and chewy. It's from Hokkaido. The broth was too light though and barely had any miso taste in my miso ramen! They said their "signature ramen" was actually Tsukemen so I didn't mind trying (even if i was just slightly doubtful about it...) However, after double checking The food reviews by other commentators, m
I Initially wanted to try the ramen at Mutekiya at Sheung Wan after trying the newest branch at Wan Chai. The noodles there were quite nice and chewy. It's from Hokkaido. The broth was too light though and barely had any miso taste in my miso ramen! They said their "signature ramen" was actually Tsukemen so I didn't mind trying (even if i was just slightly doubtful about it...) However, after double checking The food reviews by other commentators, my better senses got over me. I was reminded of "Ryo Tei".
The only cause of concern was that this shop is very very famous - in Australia......not in Japan (similar to a Chinese restaurant very famous in the UK or Japan). Anyway I placed my trust on the veteran commentators and decided to risk it.
It was quite easy to find, it's just a 5 minutes walk after you leave exit A, Sheung Wan MTR station.
It was raining at the time but was still quite busy at 1:30 pm. As always, it's easy to get a seat if you're dining alone (for ramen).
I left my umbrella outside and took a seat.
The whole shop was brightly light by lanterns and had orange wall papers with light wooden-panel as the main theme. The place wasn't too big. It had two or three tables for four persons and two more smaller tables plus about 6 counter seats. The seats were quite widely spaced apart and there were some partitions inside the shop so it didn't feel cramped. The ceiling was quite high so that helped reduced the volume as well.
I noticed a little multilingual disclaimer on the wall which stated that the broth of their Fukuoka ramen were traditionally strong. If you prefer a lighter taste, you could make a special request. This time I wasn't too sure about what ramen I'd like to order so I took my time.
The menu was pretty comprehensive and had quite a lot to choose from, include a large number of side dishes. They had two main types of broths for their ramen: Pork and Chicken.
Since i've tried quite a range of pork bone ramens - from the fast food varieties to ButaO and the super condensed Kureha - within quite a short span of time, I wasn't too interested in comparing pork bone broths again (at least not for a while). So I settled for a chicken based broth. They had quite a few to choose from as well, such as miso or salt if I remember correctly. I also noticed a spicy option! I couldn't resist that and that's what I chose. It came after a short wait:
It looked very good! Broth: I was half expecting the soup to be a bit similar to "Tori Hana", i.e. the one which seemed like a Korean Sam Gye Tang. But it didn't look like it at all. The broth was essentially more similar to a Soy-sauce based ramen. The chicken taste was less pronounced than the aromatic chicken soup served in "Maru Tama" at TST. I then realized (and confirmed with my wife) that this was made with chicken "gara" - i.e. somewhat like a Chinese style clear chicken broth without much chicken oil.
Nonetheless I was quite happy with the broth here and I found it quite addictive. Seemed to be a clear chicken broth mixed with shoyu broth and had a lot of garlic, sesame, and shredded onions. The sesame didn't seem to add much to the taste though. However, the shoyu they used was excellent! It had a very light sweet taste when you first tried it but a very deep and fragrant aromatic aftertaste.
Somehow it reminded me a bit of "Red Dragon" in Tatsuya. By far the one broth which was most similar to my favorite spicy ramen I had in Shuzuoka.
As the Japanese name of the ramen suggests, it's just "PI RI" spicy, i.e. just a bit spicy. Less spicy than the one provided at Tatsuya but still a little bit more spicy than the spicy version at Tori Hana. Definitely less spicy than a Korean tofu soup.
For those who like to enhance the spiciness, I noticed, at the end of the meal, that they had what seemed to be a home made chilli sauce. I finally gained a better understanding of what one meant by "specially made chilli sauce". There are different ways of marinating a chilli sauce and combining various ingredients. The ones here seemed to have used some Korean chilli powder, sesame seed or oil and grounded chilli powder. The spiciness wasn't too sharp, the texture might be a bit similar to a "Gwai Lin Chilli Sauce" but only at about 10-15% of the it's spiciness. It was quite aromatic and should have some grounded bonito powder.
Noodle: As stated, from Fukuoka. The quality was slightly above average. A bit better, i.e. chewier, than "Hachiyo", but not as chewy and eggy as "Hinshou" in Jordan. Of course, as long as you're talking about the yellowish thicker type of noodle, "Hakotade" is still the best.Egg: Slightly fluid in the middle but it was cold. No complaints but nothing special about it either. As always, I think the egg at "Maru Tama" is still the best I've tried so far. "Hachiyo" is also very good.
Char siu: Three thick pieces of what I believed to be pork loin/belly (I'm trying to learn a bit more about the different parts of an animal). Some may find it a bit fat. Those were quite thick and the size were generous. I'd say the quality was above average, it's more tender and a little bit more aromatic than "Tatsuya" but not as good as "Hinshou". Still, a completely different animal from the chicken char siu provided at "Tori Hana" (those at Tori Hana was just similar to shredded chicken fillet) .
So all in all, I was very happy with ramen. The size of the noodle was fine. Should be OK for most (more than Hinshou, similar to Tori Hana). At HK$72, I think it's quite reasonable.After a while, my tempura arrived. HK$42 for three pretty large prawns. The prawns were all very fresh and delicious. The batter was crisp but not too oily. One of the better ones provided in Hong Kong. The price is a lot more reasonable, at least 5-6 times cheaper that those provided at the self-proclaimed tempura specialist shops, for example "Ten Yoshi" (overpriced) or "Inagiku" (grossly overpriced ) The quality here was much much better!
Some Japanese people dip their tempura with salt. However, the sauce provided here was really good! It's dark coloured and very aromatic. The shoyu had a really rich and complex taste to it! Even better than the special soy sauce provided at "Shugetsu"! To be fair, it would be too strong to use the tempura soy sauce here for tsukemen. But I almost had the urge to drink it! Pretty attentive service. No complaints. It was still raining when I was leaving the shop but some old fella who hasn't got the full quid nicked my umbrella! The friendly waitress basically scrambled around the whole shop to look for my umbrella and was extremely apologetic about it. Her sincerity was much appreciated. Not her fault anyway, just someone who's got their kangaroo loose on the top paddock.
Bog in, mate! It's Ace.
If still in doubt, listen to the Friendly & Independent Gourmets & Just Ask the openrice Members!"
原先打算去上環的「無敵家」，但後來決定信大家。（剛在灣仔分店試了它們的味噌拉麵 - 麵條幾彈牙但湯底太稀。沒有味噌的味道。）亮亭好像才是拉麵專門店。
午飯時間（約一點半），下雨，一枝弓不需要等位。
橙色的裝潢令人覺得舒服。樓底高，座位之間有距離感。大概有25-30人的位。
牆上寫明拉麵是福岡風味。味道頗濃。客人可以要求淡一點的版本。
打開餐牌，發覺選擇比想像中多。主要分為＂豚骨湯頭＂及＂清雞湯頭＂。亦有天婦羅及其他食品。算相當全面。
試過很多豚骨拉麵，暫時集中試其他款式，擴闊自己的眼界一點。試歸試，見到辣的款式仍很難抗拒！最後決定叫辣雞湯醬油拉麵（ピリ辛口鶏ガララーメン)及一客炸蝦天婦羅。
等了不太長的時間後，我的拉麵到了。相當似樣！
喝了一兩口湯後覺得很不錯！
總評：
醬油湯頭很有鮮味。更勝「周月」的特級醬油！有蒜香味，加上自家製的辣油（微微的香辣：約是桂林辣椒醬的10-15%而已）及大量芝麻（口感多於味道）和辣蔥來提味。
筍乾一般-沒有「舞心」那麼鮮甜。但爽脆，OK.
但我後來才記得這應該是雞湯才對。多喝幾口，才記起是＂鶏ガラ"-用雞骨熬的清湯。而不是像「鳥華」那像篸雞湯，即連雞皮，雞肉及雞油的濃雞湯。「丸玉」的雞湯稠度是這兩間之間，但雞湯雖然較清但雞味最出及最鮮甜。
「亮亭」則醬油味較重。沒所謂，因為醬油很鮮甜。
麵條：福岡拉麵。小小粗身。較「八千代」彈牙。但沒有「品尚」那麼好。但算不錯。
蛋：微微溏心但心是涷的。可以接受。當然，溏心蛋我仍然覺得尖東的「丸玉」最正宗。其次為中環的「八千代」。
叉燒：四成肥肉。沒有渣及有點肉味。中上。
天婦羅：有驚喜！大蝦夠鮮，夠肉。炸得鬆化但不油膩。比＂天良し＂或＂稻菊＂好得多！
特別要一提點天ぷら的醬油：超正！比以醬油為主打的「周月」味道更濃郁香醇。酒味芳香的 aftertaste 。帶甜。令我幾乎有喝下的衝動！有這麼好的醬油，怪不得同樣有醬油的辣雞湯醬油拉麵都很好！
服務員態度有禮。
價錢合理，我必定會再試！
題外話/補充資料：
佐敦的「品尚」醬油似乎亦是相當優質的．可說是叮噹馬頭！
註：如天婦羅的海鮮夠鮮的話，日本人很多不點醬油，只點海鹽或岩鹽！各位可以一試！
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
張貼
