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一級棒鰻魚飯
2020-08-02 3857 瀏覽
正所謂男人唔補好易無😂今日我就補一補，鰻魚益處有好多，但係佢成為男人因物嘅其中一樣原因就係「補腎強腎 」😅鰻魚具有良好的補腎強腎的功效，是年輕夫婦、中老年人的保健食品。Anyway，題外話唔講咁多。今日去咗一間新開嘅日本菜餐廳，佢哋嘅食物主打鰻魚同埋串燒。呢間舖頭其實座銀拉麵係同一個group，所以見到佢哋筷子都仲係用緊拉麵嗰邊嘅包裝。餐廳唔係好大，最多應該係坐到20個人到。令我印象比較深刻嘅應該係解釋得非常清楚嘅侍應同埋有個日本人坐鎮嘅開放式廚房。食物方面，佢哋推介蒲燒鰻魚丼set，前菜有蟹肉麵豉蒸蛋同埋沙律，再加一個有菇係入邊嘅清湯。蒸蛋味道好清但係同一時間亦都好清楚咁樣食到蟹、麵豉同蛋嘅味道，唔會撈到亂晒，平時食開都係喺上面加啲芝麻醬令到佢嘅味道豐富啲但係呢一個就完全冇咁嘅必要。至於個鰻魚飯簡直係正，侍應話係最頂級嘅鰻魚（唔通佢會同你講係最低級嘅鰻魚咩😅）係個透明嘅廚房度可以見到日籍師傅專心咁燒緊我條鰻魚，最後出嚟外皮燒到脆口，魚肉比我平時食嘅淋身，同平時食開嘅有少少唔同，而且亦散發住好香嘅蒲燒醬汁。價錢方面其實唔平，二百幾蚊一個鰻魚飯set，但係計返飽肚嘅程度同埋睇住一個日籍師
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正所謂男人唔補好易無😂今日我就補一補，鰻魚益處有好多，但係佢成為男人因物嘅其中一樣原因就係「補腎強腎 」😅鰻魚具有良好的補腎強腎的功效，是年輕夫婦、中老年人的保健食品。

Anyway，題外話唔講咁多。今日去咗一間新開嘅日本菜餐廳，佢哋嘅食物主打鰻魚同埋串燒。呢間舖頭其實座銀拉麵係同一個group，所以見到佢哋筷子都仲係用緊拉麵嗰邊嘅包裝。

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餐廳唔係好大，最多應該係坐到20個人到。令我印象比較深刻嘅應該係解釋得非常清楚嘅侍應同埋有個日本人坐鎮嘅開放式廚房。

食物方面，佢哋推介蒲燒鰻魚丼set，前菜有蟹肉麵豉蒸蛋同埋沙律，再加一個有菇係入邊嘅清湯。

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 蒸蛋味道好清但係同一時間亦都好清楚咁樣食到蟹、麵豉同蛋嘅味道，唔會撈到亂晒，平時食開都係喺上面加啲芝麻醬令到佢嘅味道豐富啲但係呢一個就完全冇咁嘅必要。

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至於個鰻魚飯簡直係正，侍應話係最頂級嘅鰻魚（唔通佢會同你講係最低級嘅鰻魚咩😅）係個透明嘅廚房度可以見到日籍師傅專心咁燒緊我條鰻魚，最後出嚟外皮燒到脆口，魚肉比我平時食嘅淋身，同平時食開嘅有少少唔同，而且亦散發住好香嘅蒲燒醬汁。

價錢方面其實唔平，二百幾蚊一個鰻魚飯set，但係計返飽肚嘅程度同埋睇住一個日籍師傅咁用心烹調，再加上真係好好味就抵返晒。
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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    Delivious eel
    2020-07-02 1440 瀏覽
    Parents’ friend opened this new restaurant in central specialized in grilled unagi, flown in from various places such as Nagoya japan. Never a big fan of eel until tonight, we started off with shirayaki unagi (whole), a Japanese chef with 30+ experience has perfectly executed the unagi: crispy skin and juicy meat!! Freshness it is!!! 2 starters: pork shabu salad and onsen tamago with sea urchin, the latter was quite good, but the pork shabu didn’t stand out much even with a special yuzu sauce. W
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    Parents’ friend opened this new restaurant in central specialized in grilled unagi, flown in from various places such as Nagoya japan. Never a big fan of eel until tonight, we started off with shirayaki unagi (whole), a Japanese chef with 30+ experience has perfectly executed the unagi: crispy skin and juicy meat!! Freshness it is!!! 2 starters: pork shabu salad and onsen tamago with sea urchin, the latter was quite good, but the pork shabu didn’t stand out much even with a special yuzu sauce. We also tried other yakitori which are also very good: skewers included breast with perilla leaf, wings, gizzard, and belly with green pepper. Crispy outside and juicy the inside. Overall it’s a new place worth trying!
    Shirayaki  unagi  (whole)
    $700
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    (以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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    Just focus on the unagi, ya?
    2020-06-30 1542 瀏覽
    Summary: It’s a harsh rating for a new restaurant, but you don't get a grace period when you charge the prices Sumiya does. Apart from terrific service and a beautiful and smartly designed interior, it’s hard to recommend it. They stretch themselves too thin and end up messing up the basics. They have a chance to be great though: the unagi itself was the best kabayaki I've had in HK. A mid/high range specialty unagi restaurant in HK would be a smash; this hodgepodge izakaya/eel restaurant is abs
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    Summary: It’s a harsh rating for a new restaurant, but you don't get a grace period when you charge the prices Sumiya does. Apart from terrific service and a beautiful and smartly designed interior, it’s hard to recommend it. They stretch themselves too thin and end up messing up the basics. They have a chance to be great though: the unagi itself was the best kabayaki I've had in HK. A mid/high range specialty unagi restaurant in HK would be a smash; this hodgepodge izakaya/eel restaurant is absolutely not. Maybe give it a shot in a month or two to give them a chance to clean up their foibles, but even then, I’m not sure this proposition works

    Sumiya, boasting fresh eel flown in from Japan, is part of the Zagin group, which includes the restaurants on Gough Street, Zagin Soba (meh) and Marude Sankaku (fantastic), among others. Their specialty is obviously eel, with an emphasis on kabayaki style (with tare). The head chef is from Kyoto, but we neglected to ask where he worked before.
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     Here’s the gorgeous exterior and interior. I love the modern Japanese look and how they placed the bar by the street. Most tables get a look inside the kitchen, and even in this tiny space, they manage to fit a lot of seating. They replaced the truly terrible Tiger Room, and even without discussing the food, Sumiya is, aesthetically, a big upgrade to Gough St. 

    I enjoyed the service – shout out to Stanley in particular, who had a strong grasp of the menu, and was very friendly in answering our questions about the restaurant and the food. He even moved us to a kitchen-facing table when it became available. No issues there.

    Here’s the menu:
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     As you can see, it’s quite varied for such a small restaurant – $800 eel sets along with yakitori and izakaya appetizers. I’m not sure what they were going for, but small restaurants should focus on a limited menu built around the specialty of the shop, i.e. EEL.
    It’s almost like “there’s already a charcoal grill, why not include yakitori too?” Logical I suppose, but they obviously require different timings and techniques, leave different residues on the grill, need different seasoning etc etc. It’s a tiny restaurant - why spread yourself so thin? We could see the results of this in how many people were running around in the kitchen, but of course, the food is the ultimate proof. Unfortunately…

    To get a good feel of what they were capable of, we ordered the Unagi Kappo set and an Unagi-don, along with an eel-cucumber appetizer.

    Unagi Kappo Set
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     So, I was assuming, based on the description, that it would be 6 different eel dishes, prepared in various methods e.g. simmered, grilled, pickled etc. I’ve had eel-based sets like this before (admittedly in Japan), so I thought this wasn’t a crazy assumption.

    Amazingly though, for 800$, there are only two tiny pieces of kabayaki; and the kicker – they weren’t even good. Insufficiently grilled and left too long to cool, they were a bit chewy and not just a bit fishy. Unreal.
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     The rest of the set was unimpressive too – the tempura was the best dish by far, terrific thin batter, freshly fried and interestingly-filled. The simmered pork belly and mushroom was cold, overcooked and boring, and the pickled egg rolls were an unpleasant combination of bitter, sour, and under-seasoned. The duck was overpowered by English mustard, and again, cold.
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     The saving grace of this set was sadly the humble udon dish, which had a wonderful umami-filled dashi broth, though my friend thought the udon itself was too soft
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     Also, this chawanmushi. A comment I’m surprised to have to make – the joy of chawanmushi is the subtle flavour of steamed egg with the broth from chunks of chicken and texture of gingko, mushroom or fishcake. What isn’t joyful is this pool of unagi tare (which in this setting is VERY sweet) steamrolling all the mild ingredients it it has submerged. For me, a perfectly steamed, cloying and unpleasant mess (we did finish the eel)


    Unagi Don 
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     I’m conflicted on this – after my first bite of eel I told my friend that it made up for the disastrous eel in the kappo set. It was the perfect combination of charcoal, tare, crunchy skin and bouncy eel. Tare isn’t easy to get right, and unagi shops guard their recipe fiercely. Usually some combination of mirin, sugar, soy sauce, vinegar, sake and dashi (eel or fish), the best sauces complement sweetness with savoriness, imparting depth and more concentrated umami/ocean flavor to the eel. I think Sumiya’s tare is darn good, and I never got bored of it, even with as generous a portion of eel as the unagi-don provides. There’s no way to describe a perfectly grilled piece of eel; the perfect crispness of the skin in combination with the silky flesh, brought together by excellent tare. Obviously the best part of the meal, and the best in town for me.

    But then I tried my first bite of rice and it all fell apart; not literally, quite the opposite in fact. I’m pretty sure most people are like me: a big part of eating Japanese eel is the joy of good tare and well-cooked Japanese rice. A lot of places serve pretty mediocre eel, but most places can’t mess up rice and sweet sauce. Sadly, this place reverses the equation; I mean, look at this rice:
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     There are a lot of weird things going on here. First, the rice grains were fragmented a la Vietnamese broken rice, which I’d never seen in Japanese rice. 2nd, it’s unusual for tare to be completely mixed with the rice; in unagi-don the rice is usually coated with only the extra sauce from the eel. 3rd, there’s no way around it, they cooked this rice in too much water. Japanese rice is forgiving with extra water though, so reaching this level of gloppiness requires some serious heavy-handedness. I suppose then it’s a combination of all three: too much liquid (water and tare) into small, broken rice grains results in soggy, sticky rice. Considering there are only two things you need to get right in unagi-don, this is frankly unforgivable. No matter how good the eel is (and it was very good), it’s like bad rice (shari) in sushi – it just can’t happen. 

    I’ll assume they fix the ratio of water:rice eventually, but it’s still overkill to fully mix the rice with so much tare. I’m also not sure why they use broken rice mixed with regular rice, as it inevitably results in messy non-uniform texture and saturation; very un-Japanese indeed.

    Eel-cucumber salad
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     This was great – slightly sour cucumbers and savory eel, not weighed down by any tare. It’s a small victory, but a great dish with sake or shochu

    Overall though, I can’t, at the moment, recommend Sumiya at all. The poorly-executed and thus horribly expensive $800 kappo set and the glopfest rice in the unagi don are evidence of a restaurant that hasn’t figured out what it wants to be. The kappo set points to finer-dining aspirations, but the flavors and execution (why was everything cold?) did not work. On the flip side, that they couldn’t get the rice correct in a RICE BOWL shows their attention is overly divided, or that they haven’t been able to taste and perfect the fundamentals. A Japanese-run restaurant that messes up rice is… unfathomable. As I’m sure someone has said before; rather than drain the ocean, better to clean your own pond first. 

    HK doesn’t have a great unagi place; Sumiya has the fundamentals to become one. The unagi in the unagi-don proves they have what it takes if they only have to worry about grilling eel.  I just hope they figure out that out, instead of trying to compete in the jungle of HK izakayas (which by the way, don’t mess up rice).
    (以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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      $650 (晚餐)