太爺雞的食记– 香港筲箕湾的粤菜 (广东)中菜馆

在舊店時早已食過同寫過, 感覺上不是太好食, 勝在夠平: " http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=30321 "********************** 太爺雞飯 -想再寫這裡是有理由的. 上次食時已講過, 這裡的太爺雞是食不出有任何煙燻味的.... 後來無意中看到有雜誌再寫起這裡賣的原來真的只是玫瑰豉油雞.... 是沒有煙燻製過, 怪不得只吃得到玫瑰露同豉油味. 有點兒取巧吧, 因同真正是一點關係都無. 這裡賣的, 話說也是'新鮮雞'添. 但老實講, 現時香港很多地方說的新鮮雞, 其實也是日鮮雞, 有冰過的.... 不是在店裡或附近街市即劏的雞.一天入面有24小時, 過咗劏雞後一兩三個小時, 唔好話本應是日鮮雞, 或冰鮮雞, 再雪咗三四個時晨就已變成雪雞或雪藏雞了. 本人的 interpretation 很簡單 - 一隻新鮮的雞或魚, 從100% 新鮮度開始後, 細胞就會隨著時間開始漸漸變壞, 變成向下走的 90%, 85%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 30% 新鮮罷了... 其實

在舊店時早已食過同寫過,
感覺上不是太好食, 勝在夠平:
" http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=30321 "

**********************

太爺雞飯 -
想再寫這裡是有理由的. 上次食時已講過, 這裡的太爺雞是食不出有任何煙燻味的....

後來無意中看到有雜誌再寫起這裡賣的原來真的只是玫瑰豉油雞.... 是沒有煙燻製過, 怪不得只吃得到玫瑰露同豉油味. 有點兒取巧吧, 因同真正 [太爺雞] 是一點關係都無.

這裡賣的, 話說也是'新鮮雞'添.

但老實講, 現時香港很多地方說的新鮮雞, 其實也是日鮮雞, 有冰過的....
不是在店裡或附近街市即劏的雞.
一天入面有24小時, 過咗劏雞後一兩三個小時, 唔好話本應是日鮮雞, 或冰鮮雞, 再雪咗三四個時晨就已變成雪雞或雪藏雞了. 本人的 interpretation 很簡單 - 一隻新鮮的雞或魚, 從100% 新鮮度開始後, 細胞就會隨著時間開始漸漸變壞, 變成向下走的 90%, 85%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 30% 新鮮罷了... 其實這是一位日本壽司師傅教我的.

即劏 (20C+), 即劏後在室溫放一兩小時 (20C+), 冰鮮 (4-6C+) , 雪 (0-4C) , 雪藏 (-18C+/-), 或超級冷藏 (-20 to -55C +/-) 其實是 slow down 這 decomposition process 的. 每樣都有唔同的 decomposition rate, 用 derivative 就可計算出來. 其實知道 Food Science 的 Chef 或食客也會知道, either 冰鮮或 Instant Snap Frozen 雪藏, 反而可能比雪櫃 (refrigerated) 好. 因為 decomposition 是有時間性的, 但 Snap Frozen 技術有機會最可能保留著最新鮮的狀態, 直到你解凍為止. (當然, 怎樣去急凍同解凍也是很深的學問, 因急凍得不妥, 也會毀壞細胞的.. like bruising, equivalent of frost bite or ice damaging original cells, etc.) 如果不是的話, 日本也不會經過很多的研究後, 壽司店同魚民選用了 Snap Frozen Invention 來保全 Ikura, Tuna, Toro, Urchin, Crab 的原味了. 隨咗劏魚的一兩天是新鮮之外, 就算是香港'伊滕', 也是大部份時間賣雪藏金鎗魚的! 停屍房用上雪藏或甚至 Cryonic Freezing 也是有理由的. 當然, 有得選擇在幾個小時內食用的話, 超級冷藏是無須用吧. 在室溫或微溫冰鮮下, 會比較好....唔會給不熟或沒有 Proper Snap Frozen Equipment 的情況下, 比機會破壞細胞的可能性!

Anyway I just wrote the above because there seems to be a lot of false rumours going around as to what is good, bad or average when it comes to chickens and raw seafood, or how they are kept, as many people seem to make assumptions without realising that overseas in so many places, scientists have already discovered a lot more than what it seems on the surface and how to store bodycells or vegetable cells, and how it all works in the background and it relation to food. (I will cover this topic again soon in another review!) The one thing I hate the most is when the same mistake is
regurgitated again and again when it isn't even accurate or up-to-date information. >.<

Back to chicken rice! This time, the chicken texture seemed a little stringy and dry than last time, however it retained some fresh chicken taste! The sweetened soy sauce was ok-good, penetrating into the skin but not the white meat though, yet this time it carried a lot more cheapish rose wine influence. Anyway, I didn't think this was very impressive but for the lowish price and for a fairly fresh, barely refrigerated chicken, its a good deal I suppose!

I think the chicken freshness isn't a problem, but its the cooking method which they could improve on to make the meal more complete.