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2015-05-27
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The menu is the type of thing that probably deserves at least a sonnet writing about it, running as it does the full cheese gamut from your standard farmhouse-gouda mix to more aspirational numbers, such as its slow-and-low lamb shoulder with melted Swiss cheese, or a pastrami- Sparkenhoe Red Leicester number, which is topped with a little coronet of porcini mushrooms.If you are wondering why I am expending so much air extolling the virtues of a takeout-cum-restaurant that effectively melts chee
If you are wondering why I am expending so much air extolling the virtues of a takeout-cum-restaurant that effectively melts cheese, it's because that is my dream. I appreciate flair and technical ability and all those other things that make chefs great and food superlative, but I also like two pieces of bread with something melting in between. I like the feet-on-the-coffee-table informality of it all.
It's not just that, though. This is a food with so very many strings to its bow. Texturally, it is a delight, the buttered-crunch of the toasted bread, the oozing warm cheese making a little slick on your tongue; I can taste it now. It is also balanced, with a little carbohydrate and, well, quite a lot of fat. But really the thing that draws me, bottom lip aquiver, fork in hand, is that it is so very soothing: it is the angora jumper of food. It calls to me of cuddles and duvets and being with people who won't pull a funny face if you end up with a spaghetti-string of cheese falling from your mouth. It reminds me of being young and uncomplicated.
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