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2013-10-16
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La Cantoche is tucked away in Sheung Wan, a little off the beaten track but not hard to find (directly opposite Java Java on Hollywood Rd, in a tiny side alley) making it still close to the action and bright lights of Soho. The party menu is great value - $450 for appetisers, mains and dessert, a combination of large dishes and platters to share and a free flow of red, white and rose wine, making it ideal for the Christmas party season or birthday parties. There were 8 of us in total and the f
The party menu is great value - $450 for appetisers, mains and dessert, a combination of large dishes and platters to share and a free flow of red, white and rose wine, making it ideal for the Christmas party season or birthday parties. There were 8 of us in total and the food & wine is plentiful and varied. The service was attentive and informative.
The decor is very informal and casual, 'frat-boy cool' masculine (with a foosball table at the entrance, chrome and brick, and Michael Jackson's 'Bad' spray-painted on a wall upstairs, multi-coloured wood and metal chairs). Though the venue is small, it doesn't feel it. The lighting and the high ceiling by the entrance give an illusion of space. It is also nice to be able to see the food properly as the place was lit well. Though the decor wasn't to my taste, it is very much of the personality of the owner, which I like. He is not catering for a specific crowd, rather it is very much something of himself that he is offering up. This again is reflected in his menu, a mish mash of French, Vietnamese and Laotian cooking.
I was very impressed by the influences of Laotian and Vientamese cuisine on the menu, and these were very interesting. So too were the Arabic influences. The only lows (for me) were the typically French, Cordon Bleu-style cheese / chicken dishes, which were not that exciting and served as fillers. I felt they were completely unnecessary. The owner's Vietnamese and Laotian history really shine through and I feel the dishes where he paid homage to these roots were the most exciting and delicious. He would be better served if he followed this instinct to produce exciting fusions between French and Asian cuisine.
The starters:
- Sardines Escabeche - marinated sardines with capers and sundried tomatoes - very Mediterranean, salty and delectable.
- Goat cheese springroll salad - who does not love goat's cheese or springrolls? This was a fantastic blend. A nice fusion, but quite filling starter. Crispy outside, creamy inside. Healthy serving of salad.
- Rice Krispie - my favourite, a twist on David's mother's Laotian cooking - lettuce leaves with crispy puffed rice, chillis, nuts and spices. Utterly more-ish and delicious. I could've eaten platefuls of this. It was crunchy, light, bursting with flavour and nicely spiced.
- Chakchouka - baked eggs in tomato and bell pepper - perfect with the merguez.
- Baked camembert with roast potatoes to dip - my least favourite, although I think this was partly due to the clashing flavour of the cheese (which I suspect was rolled in ash) with the Asian spices I had before. It tasted bitter and acrid and put me off, though my companions were fine with it. If i had eaten this on its own, I think it would've been a different experience.
Mains / Shared platters:
- Merguez sausages - divine! Perfect for a party, loads to share, spicy, salty and cooked with a slight crispy edge. Was delicious!
- Steak Hache - Steak Tartare - I'm not usually a fan of raw meat, but this made me a total convert, it was beautifully prepared and tender, with a slight sweetness. There was no metallic 'tang' from blood which means it was hung properly. It was full of flavour and definitely a star on the menu.
-Raisin and Lamb Tagine & Cous Cous - sweet and full of spices like cinnamon. The heat came from a small side dish of rose harissa paste, which I think was a nice thoughtful touch, for those who don't like their food too hot. I really enjoyed this and thought it was tender enough, though the person next to me felt it was a touch too dry and could've been moister.
- Cordon Bleu Chicken stuffed with ham and reblochon cheese - again, for me, the cheese was very overpowering and not as enjoyable as the other mains. As a dish, I felt it was lost amongst the other more interesting dishes. This seems like it's been tacked onto the menu to show that the chef can cook Cordon Bleu, but it is completely unnecessary. However, there are people who may prefer their food plainer and simpler and not so adventurous or spiced, in which case, this would suit them, and makes perfect sense on a party menu.
-Chicken skewers - marinated in Oriental spices (I did not find out which ones). A perfectly serviceable filler. Nothing exciting or outstanding compared to the others.
- Sides - Carrots Vichy, Yellow beans, mashed potatoes and cous cous - all good side dishes, though the yellow beans were least liked. Mashed potatoes were excellent, pureed, creamy, full of butter and flavour.
Desserts
- Chocolate tart - smooth, creamy, heavy, a morsel goes a long way. Good-sized portions, this is definitely one to share if you are wary of putting on weight. Not one to share if you love chocolate. This one is a keeper.
- Crushed M&M and nougat icecream - a lovely balance of textures and flavour, surprisingly delicate. The nougat flavour is very evident.
Other Info. :
No service charge on a la carte menu.
(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
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