A brand-new branch of La Rotisserie takes the concept of takeaway to new heights, as they move right into the heart of Sai Ying Pun. Francophiles and all lovers of roast chicken, prepare to pamper your taste-buds!

■ Doing it again - the new branch on Sai Ying Pun's Third Street

La Rotisserie, the French roast chicken takeaway and épicerie, has recently opened its second branch in Sai Ying Pun, following its Sheung Wan debut last year. With its black interiors, charming décor and smart logo, it’s already creating plenty of Euro buzz in the old-world neighborhood. The clientele, so far, seems mixed – young hipsters make an occasional appearance, but so do taitais and neighborhood grannies, drawn to the sight and smell of freshly-roasted chicken carved right in the counter.

What’s so special about their flame-roasted specialty? ‘All our chickens are A-grade, corn-fed, free-range French specimens – they even speak French!’, quips Chef Aurelien Malik Benbernou, as he slices into the piping hot meat, like some fancy French version of a Chinese butcher at a meat stall. He, along with Jerome Carlier and Marie Ranc, were inspired to set up the company by their shared childhood memories of family dinners, and by their dream of bringing an alternative vision of French culture to Hong Kong. ‘We want to show that French cuisine is not just about high-end dining, but that it can also be built around the concept of takeaway.’ says Marie, who’s in charge of branding. Indeed, with its fast but delicious menu, it’s good news for urbanites who just want to grab’n’go. At five minutes tops, you can get your boxful of authentic French chicken.

■ A gold-star meal: chicken 'on the go'

Sai Ying Pun, despite initial thoughts of: ‘Hey, isn’t that really far away?’, is a natural choice for their new venture, with the enclave increasingly tipped as another Soho East. ‘We love the village atmosphere here,’ says Marie. ‘We are a small business, and we can’t afford rent in places like Causeway Bay. At the same time, we understand that often people want to move away from dining in Central, and Sai Ying Pun is a great chance for them to move out of their usual haunts. The neighborhood is vibrant, and it’s changed so much even in the last 12 months; nowadays there are lots of trendy new places opening, including the French guys at Metropolitain. Also, with the new MTR station coming in the next few months and the escalator about to be completed, we’re confident business is going to grow.’

What new tricks does the store have up its sleeve? For one, this branch is much more spacious, making room for a partnership with Le Madeline de Proust (think candy-colored, high-concept confectionary) and Edmond Fallot condiments (gherkins and mustard). For another, it offers more flavors. With 2 rotisseries ovens instead of one, customers can now get 2 flavors of chicken constantly on the go. The classic choice, made from traditional French herbs, is an old favorite, but the rotating daily –e.g. French mustard, keeps the surprises coming.

In many ways, La Rotisserie combines the pleasures of European culinary culture with the ease and convenience of a Chinese roast meat stall – for $90-$150, you can get half a chicken or a whole chicken, which will be carved right in front of you, and get your fill of sides as well, including pasta, greens and potatoes – the latter roasted directly under the chicken, thus chock full of its juices. While chicken is undoubtedly the star of La Rotisserie – think crispy skin, and plenty of thick luscious white meat, the shop also offers baked goods both savory and sweet. A range of quiches – from zucchini to walnut to bacon, sandwiches and croque monsieur are complemented by apple tarts, blueberry tarts and a rather awesome chocolate cake. Clearly, these guys can bake too. (Food is baked fresh on location in each of their shops)

Yes, it might be out of the way (for now), and the menu might be unapologetically chicken-centric, but it’s definitely worth a trek up the road. At $68 for a lunch combo (¼ chicken + 1 side dish + choice of soup or iced tea), it’s also good value for money. Get a whole chicken for your family dinner – or, for those seeking a light snack, the nifty little chicken baguette (assembled a la minute – with the bread prepared in France and lightly finished in Hong Kong) might do the trick.

■ The three French owners of La Rotisserie - Chef Aurelien, Marie Ranc and Jerome Carlier, combining culinary, marketing and finance backgrounds

House Specialties: Chicken and beyond

■ The classic flavor of chicken is made from 20 French spices and a secret recipe

■ Chicken slow-roasted on the spit

■ Chef Aurelien carving the chicken

■ Bite-size portions served!

■ Zucchini, tomato and mustard quiche

■ 'Le Chocolate Cake' using secret recipe

■ Soup of the day - pumpkin soup

■ Chicken baguette

■ Pasta, greens and French potatoes

■ The affordable new lunch-set

The Rival Establishment: Flames Charcoal Chicken

(Photo by supersupergirl)

While La Rotisserie is all about French culture, Flames is a lot more low-key and geared towards a Hong Kong clientele. With a choice between Australian-style and Portuguese-style specimens – the former marinated in herbs and the latter spicy, its chickens come stuffed, roasted and salted, and are served with generous portions of rice, chips and salad, as well as gravy or peri peri sauce.

In fact, how expert is the roasting? The verdict is mostly positive. OpenRicer flyinghome says: ‘The chickens were nice and hot when we got it and it was very juicy with a touch of charcoal flavour. My favourite salad was the roast pumpkin - it had a very nice vinegar dressing on it. Must try is the chips!!!’There were, however, occasional voices of dissent. OpenRicer kelly sze says: ‘The appearance is really attractive, but the portion of rice was disappointing. The chicken skin itself is delicious, but the meat is bland. I also ordered the pasta salad – except for the dash of herbs, there’s nothing special. Truly, one time here is enough.’

At around $50 - $130 (for quarters to whole chickens), prices are slightly lower than La Rotisserie’s. It’s arguable though, that tasty as it is, it’s also slightly less authentic. A streamlined, relaxed alternative to La Rotisserie? Or a less sophisticated contender? Diners, feel free to let your taste-buds decide.

Text, photos: Michelle W (some photos courtesy of La Rotisserie)