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2009-10-02
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A friend of mine who resides in the 半山 area closer to the East SOHO escalator side, once recommended this noodles shop to me. From his 'static' point-of-view, he reckons if I just 'Aim High' from where my office is and walk up the hill, I'll eventually locate here. So 1 late afternoon, I walked up and walked down and walked across and sideways but still I could not find the place! Eventually, by the time I got here, I figured not only was it located more West-wards than I was 老點'ed (thanks to
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牛腩麵 -
Their signature dish! The Briskets in my bowl were majoritively thick-sliced 坑腩 but 2 pieces were 筋腩 with lovely transparent tendons attached on the edge! At this shop, they do not take shortcuts when cooking their beef! They go to an extreme of sourcing the rare, very aged 40 years old 磨豉 (?) to marinate then cook their beef briskets with, overnight. It tenderises and absorbs as much flavour as possible! Using dinosaur-age Beans Paste is a similar approach by high-end Japanese shops using aged miso to cook their food or soups. I LIKE THE IDEA!
The Fermented Beans Paste was quite aromatic here, it was slightly broody in a way though since its dark-potent flavouring which robs it of most beef taste. HOWEVER, its really quite great if you like this type of taste and brisket cooking, plus the texture was actually really perfect. Not tough but just perfect in terms of a bitey texture! The beef is very 'salty' but expectedly so. Flavouring wise, Northpoint 佳記's brisket taste style is more suitable as a daily type of meal when its not too overwhelming on one's palate, but if I desire a strong, aromatic 磨豉 Brisket taste 1 day, then this is the place!
The Noodles however have nothing up against many other famous noodle shops, the above 佳記 for one is far better than here. Its actually good in a way, but slightly too rubbery and carries a shatload of 鹼水味. Personally I can accept this level but its walking on fine edges.
HONG KONG MILK TEA -
On the Introductory Page outside, they claim they have a pretty good milk tea and so I ordered a hot version. They use 2 types of tea leaves only, as opposed to the 4 or 5 other shops use, and one of them is the ubiquitous Yellow Label Lipton which many use as the base of their tea blend. When I got my Milk Tea, I was surprised how aromatic it was compared to virtually everything else I've had in Hong Kong so far..... for some reason it reminded me of Bergamot Oil in profile! As for the taste, it was also quite good - around a BLACK TEA:EVAPORATED MILK ratio of 7:3. To some people, this could be too tea watery and not 'evaporated or condensed milk viscous' or smooth enough. For me, I enjoyed subtle teas as well as bolder, thicker version.
The one here is similar to 籣方園's version, which both of these are again qute different to many other joints. Except here, its more Aromatic and also has 回韻 (Mid-length Aftertaste), but its very subtle so its not easily detectable. Whereas 籣方園 has a stronger 回甘 (Tannicky Reaction) without 回韻 yet slightly bolder. In comparison, many other places are just strongish without much lingering aftertaste...
Not sure how to say this clearly, but perhaps resorting to wine-jargon speech is easier ?? Its like comparing an modern Industrial Fruit bomb wine with Dark fruit and Oakiness upfront, to a more sophisticated French Pinot Noir or a Right bank Bordeaux - some will enjoy the former, much more forward flavours which are 'instantly' recognisable. The latter meanwhile, might not seem as impressive initially, but it lasts and lingers much longer in your mouth afterwards! The tea in this shop surprisingly belongs to the latter camp and in direct contrast to the way they approach their Beef Briskets!!!
To me, the Tea Base here still can have more sophisticated layering - but its already great and so far I haven't found many shops which are better than here! Most HK Teas nowadays aren't good to be honest.... it even prompted me to try making my own 1 time last week recently! Mine unfortunately did not get upto the high standards that I had set my goals as, so its not easy to get it right! Next time may be with the help of a few friends, I think I need to experiment a few more times but there's no guarantee I will ever succeed! Until then, I would stick to High Teas at Mandarin or Le Gouter Bernardaud or Tea & Herb!
BRISKETS NOODLES: BRISKETS '5'. NOODLES '3.5'
HK MILK TEA: ummmm.... HIGH '4'
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