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2009-09-11
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For some time 江仔記 has boasted itself and its fishballs of some legendary status, followed by a rush of demands to try them. After some trials in the past I was tempted to think it deserved the title, and that was some years ago when I didn't know the difference. Luckily enough I've had the chances to eat around the city -- to try places OTHER THAN this one. Little did I realized, that there is a whole new world of fishballs out there, and this self-proclaimed expert may need to look deeper into
We arrived just after the peak hours, to find many people still, we were led up to the dingier upstairs to sit. The ceiling was extremely low (Careful, mind your head). Little did I know what "mind your head" also entailed into consideration that you're about to have a disappointing meal -- the sign was also a standin warning to tell others that they could expect no less than mediocrity. Read on.
魚三味河, served in bowls with the company's name on it, looks slightly tacky with the name, but sadly pale on the fish broth. Bits of 冬菜 and scallions afloat the broth. I would've preferred the topping to be Chinese celery instead. Moving on, "3 ways" turned out to be the legendary "fish balls " (and fish cakes), fish and pork dumplings (魚皮餃), and fish rolls (魚扎) -- something rather lost through the tide of time, no longer in the popularity radar because it's complicated to make and frankly, not a lot of people appreciate it.
The rice noodles were stuck into a giant lump, while the broth was faintly milky and faintly tasting like anything at all. The dumplings were good enough. The wrappers, made partly with ground fish, tasted appropriately "fishy", while the pork filling wasn't much saltier than the wrapper. That I'll give plenty of credit to the makers. The fish rolls -- originally made with fish finely minced until mushy. Each roll is made by gathering a small mount of fish mixture, quickly smeared across the cutting board and on it place a matchstick each of carrot, celery and fatty pork, quickly roll the entire thing until it resembles a thick thumb.
The fish rolls turned out, only looked the part. It lacked the texture crunch of the veggies and the fish mixture was just too soft. It managed to stay in shape and not fall apart, (unlike my expectation and anticipation, each shattered into pieces by now). It's also too salty through and through. The fish balls (and cakes) were really something to get mad at. They were neither the bouncy type nor the soft gooey type. Oh I know, they were the flavorless type -- not exactly flavorless. The fish balls tasted fishy enough, but not the refreshingly welcoming taste. The fishcakes' 'crust' detached from the inside, and let's not forget it's made from the same fishball mixture which means. It's all the same taste.
When the food is bad, everything else you notice seem to get worse -- the floor is slippery, the dishes piling up in buckets, the best service was like barking commands, and when you pay the check in exact change seems like they're throwing the money at you (not aiming). I wondered if the limited time success of the fishballs has grown all over its heads, that after the glory has passed they still maintained that very sense of pride that dared the customers to impress them. Maybe this emperor really need some new 'balls' to improve on what they're selling to the customers, and I'm not just meaning the ones made with fish.
張貼
