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2009-07-14
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For the longest time I know, the old location of 大利清湯腩 was always a full house -- It means if you want a particular cut of brisket then it's a race against time. One incident of me walking me when the store ran out of 坑腩 and 爽腩 at the same time before lunch hours have ended. That made me realize that I won't ever set foot here unless I am here early enough to wait for what I want, rather them watching pieces of briskets simmer ready to be eaten by someone else other than me...Good thing there i
Weekend afternoon was surprisingly 'empty'. Was it the heat deterring people from eating anything hot (temperature) and slow-cooked over a period of time? Noodles with one kind of meat ingredient costs about $26, but with one more ingredient is $28, which is exactly why you need to feel greedy and order 坑腩 and 爽腩 at the same time. Many also ordered the slow-cooked Lo-Bok ($10 for a piled up serving).
Nooldes arrive promptly. The broth is nowhere neat "clear as consomme" as they claim -- look wise and taste wise, through rich with beefiness resulting from a lot fo beef and its bones simmered for a long time. A faint reminder of star anise diminished slowly behind my palates as I sipped the hot broth. The tendons were gelatinous and soft, almost like a beefy terrine in aspic. The 坑腩 was tender, and bears no resemblance of those stringy brisket bits caught between the teeth in many other brisket nightmares. 爽腩 has the texture from the textbooks -- a little chewy but didn't transform into edible rubber. The membranes attaching bits of meat are the best part as I slowly savour every morsel of it. You won't get a lot of those in each bowl, so every bite will count.
If you like 伊麵, feel free to go for it. There are occasions when the noodles were perfectly cooked while one time they got mushy before we started taking the picture, shown here. Cuttlefish balls here are sourced well. They got the better kind and it's not mushy all through, with a little bite indeed. In the midst of blazing summer heat, the new joint certainly is "cooler" than the old one, plus, during lunch hours, the lines tend to be shorter too!!
Note: The briskets you can count on, but do remember to try different cuts if you can, so you'll know what to order and not get the "ordinary" cut which tends to be the stringiest and toughest cut. Also be sure that the broth is hot enough when your noodles are served. If you order 河粉, consume promptly, as they tend to absorb the broth quickly and become mushy.
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