都爹利會館

營業中

休息中

如果第一次來《都爹利會館》，不知就裏，以為真的是會所，其實中菜館子一家而已，只是開在中環，藏身一棟大厦內，別緻的名字，加上 brassy and wooden （真鍮與木）的裝修， 不大炫耀的 vibe，感覺氛圍上質而 classy 。話時話，東京丸之內重建了的《東京會館》，宏大氣派，金碧輝煌，卻不媚俗，裡面的會議廳和餐廳都是開放的（當然要訂座啦）☝🏽😎。唯《都爹利會館》的缺點是地方小巧，樓底低，平日午餐滿座，人聲鼎沸，熱鬧是熱鬧啦，不過嘈到拆天，其實小型 dining room 要對吸音做更多功夫，可能香港沒有人當噪音一回事，惡性循環，嘈雜地方，說話更大聲，噪音變本加厲，來應酬唯有「硬著耳朵」，好友共聚平日則不會選擇這裡。怕熱鬧如小妹般嘛，星期六來才對，尤其是新年，三樓 restaurant 吃套餐和小菜（當然可以預訂大菜和吃點心既）大概五成滿，吃得十分舒服，真正能全意享受《會館》佳餚。今天吃『賀年套餐』，加兩款新年點心。本來想喝杯香檳，看酒牌只有 Ruinart 和 Krug 可以 by the glass，兩款非小妹所愛，午餐又無需開一支啦，見有英倫 Saicho 帶氣茶可點，就以茶代酒。【 氣泡茶 】套餐送一杯 Jasmine tea，之後我們再追加兩小瓶 Darjeeling 和 Hojicha 各一。不差，亦不過甜，只是小妺認為茶原味最好。******點心先上。【 魚躍龍門 ｜ 油雞樅菌金魚餃 】是加了油雞樅菌並以金魚造型的蝦餃。皮和蝦餡料比例均稱，加入菇菌，分外芳香，皮是略為煙韌那種，澄麵比例略高吧？整體不但賣相漂亮，亦相當美味。****就是你想批評這個點心，並嫌斧痕略深，唯擺盤佈局，餐具用色，皆含工筆之意， 靛青之碟，彷如荷塘景色，看著教人心情愉悅，廚師是有點美學根底啊，新年喜慶，就讓這點氣氛，祝願如意吉祥吧，不用苛評了。【 金龍獻瑞 ｜ 金香龍蝦千層酥  】酥皮層疊香而酥脆，餡料龍蝦香口彈牙，整個點心做的出色。單論酥皮，《唐人館》蘿蔔絲酥餅的酥脆輕盈更勝一籌（小妹只是說酥皮呢，餡料不同不作比較）。回說這件千層酥，旁邊用 langoustine 點綴，小妹也覺得內裏蝦肉像海鼇多過龍蝦，請高明指點小妹是否有錯呢。**【 醬料 】方面，豆瓣醬過鹹，掩蓋了其他味道，奇怪現在很少豆瓣醬不過鹹的。反而那「豆豉」味辣醬有點意思，醬油般底蘊中帶點變化。始終菜餚美味，醬料到底錦上添花而已。醬油未有用武之地，不知品質如何。 除了 Saicho 氣泡茶，我們也點了【 普洱 】。一般坊間中菜，小妹是不甚喝茶，尤其是普洱，怕染色貨式，來這裡比較放心，所以要喝點普洱。吃粵菜點心，茶乃解膩佳品，不可或缺。對於中國茶，小妹鍾愛普洱和六安，多得「家教」，喝得甚濃，才啖出黑茶毫不花枝招展中的鬱鬱之味道，看小妹沖泡六安，朋友們都呆了🙄。上質普洱（六安也是）口感圓滑，沖泡多次依然味美，是日所飲當然不是此等級數，沖泡幾次，顏色漸淡，落得安心，因為知道茶色天然 。味道，不過不失啦。****好了，點心後，第一道菜：【 豪氣滿天 | 發財哈棗拼招牌叉燒 】蝦棗加入髮菜增添新年的味道成為「發財哈棗」，名字雖難免俗套，寓意笑口常開，也是妙事。哈棗彈牙不靭，而且本身味道已經很好，不需要加調味的，尤其無需要加甚麼甜醬之類。若然想加點刺激的話，豆瓣醬太鹹，不宜，反而那豆豉辣椒醬，可酌量。至於叉燒，的確有其特色。不但色澤深紅，連味都不同，沒有燒臘叉燒那種對小妹來說過火了之甜味，甚至未嚐到一股突兀的，有點假的玫瑰酒「香」。****這個叉燒味道深沉細膩，基本上完全不像叉燒。反而是 spit roast 慢烤豬肉。Spit roast 慢工細貨，豬肉不但嫩，調味得宜的話，肉味還清晰可嚐。想要傳統之味，這個「叉燒」也許不是你口味。如果不介意不同的烹調之法，《會館》叉燒有自己一番風格，至於喜歡與否，見仁見智，小妹嘛，是完全可以接受，並衷心讚美。【 延年益壽 ｜ 花旗參石斛花膠燉雞 】參與石斛，木藥之香，誠然花旗參還是搶鏡一點，湯清甜有真味，今天的花膠非上盛珍品，勝在燉得挺腍中間仍帶質感，口感甚好，只是略嫌未夠入味。鮑參翅肚，並非小妹至愛，唯喜歡「肚」（魚肚 / 花膠），但卻愛如豬皮般的魚肚多於一大片的花膠（消費也理性點，要知真正花膠可以貴得嚇人啊）。那種豬皮般的魚肚，容易入味，口感奇妙，吃得十分過癮。至於真花膠，便宜的乃「拼貼」貨式，真正一大塊的不容易煮，一是不夠入味，一是燜得未夠火候，暴殄天物啊 😭。****【 花開富貴 龍馬精神 ｜ 西蘭花豉汁龍蝦球 】龍蝦肉爽彈，鑊氣夠炒得龍蝦球相當香，只是豆豉多了一點，令整個菜式過鹹了。不過單嚐龍蝦，則甚為滿意的。而且以「分餸」中菜來說，非常夠熱，嚐得到師傅的鑊氣 。****【 發財好市 ｜ 髮菜蠔豉豬手 】擺盤一般（這是讚譽，不要太做作，令食物上桌時已經凉了）。菜餚味濃每一樣都卻層次清晰。豬手為乳豬手，軟滑而且夠腍，稍嫌過於細小，不夠喉（小妹以為是一大隻豬手喔）🥺。如果新年餐餐吃這樣的髮菜蠔豉菜式，或會生厭，但是小妹過年十分克制，這個賀年菜式今天吃得開懷。****【 五福臨門 ｜糯米飯 】糯米飯外軟糯，內心有質感，調味亦佳，醬香而不鹹。之前在《文華廳》一樣吃糯米飯，那裡的飯粒過硬啦。《都嗲利會館》完勝《文華廳》。本來應先寫《文華廳》一餐，但《都嗲利會館》是新年午餐，為免有過期之感，決定先完成這一個食評。****【 都爹利賀年美點 ｜ 流沙煎堆仔、黃金煎年糕 】兩者皆不俗。年糕香甜，煙靭不黏牙，濃郁卻沒有過份甜，比坊間大路貨式好得多啦。小煎堆則鬆脆可口，縱然「沙」未見為小妹傾「流」，仍不失作為 finale 的美味甜點嘅。啊，請不要遺忘那在碟上一角小小的，兩翼飛飛的 cape gooseberry 呢 😌。****【 總結 】今天午餐每人 $1,650，你話《都爹利會館》貴，當然不便宜啦（吃平日套餐不需要這個價錢的），雖然這裡食物有一定質素，有些造型美，也有挺美味的，但並不每一樣都最好，表現仍有參差，如果平日那樣熱鬧（不叫它「嘈雜」是有點克制了），小妹是不會付出這個價錢來這裡午餐。然而今天是農曆新年後第一次在外午餐，《會館》環境靜局，而且今天菜式似乎比平日還是更花心思，要有坐得舒服可以靜靜地吃餐飯，而且 classy 的地方，週末《會館》誠然好地方。享受一個新年午餐，祈願「春滿乾坤福滿門」，小妹就不吝嗇啦。 繼續閱讀

這間食館在香港是名人食堂，現在名人不見了。樓上的ESTRO是他們的姊妹店，這間西餐廳的tasting Menu是合格的，以一間五星級的餐廳來講，無論在食物質素及服務方面都有極好的印象。這間餐廳，地方偏遠，沒有泊車地方，但收費卻是比五星級的餐廳費用更五星級。以性價比當然不會用在高級餐廳上，而是以食物質素及服務態度來決定這間餐廳的菜單價值是否合情合理，答案是不合理。也明白這間中餐飯館為何生意一落千丈，也不是沒有他的原因。在光顧完後餐廳傳來了問卷調查，也不用回覆。客人不回覆一間五級餐廳發來的調查，已經說明這間餐廳盡在不言中。在中環的中餐廳確實有很多選擇，由大班樓到32公館，都走高級路線，但這一間有點不知進取，服務就是一般酒樓的質素，客人未食完就已經要求結帳。當時只不過是9:30左右。大廳及房間依然仍有食客，由服務員到經理級完全給不到你一個殷勤的服務。絕對是不稱職。人手嚴重不足。整個會館都很像沒有管理一樣，與灣仔的一般酒樓沒有分別。但價格完全有點超乎想像意外。一碟豆苗居然是三百六十多元，炒起來這一碟素菜完全炒不起豆杯的味道。生炒排骨只食到罐頭菠蘿的甜味，廚房並不能夠把生炒骨的精髓完整的表達出來。就看到廚房的人材未到這個級別。所有的菜式沒有什麼好評價，因為想不到什麼值得稱讚。整個場館都是有一點點會所式的中餐格調，遊走於九零年代。但是服務態度及菜式味道將會令到這一間飯館望而卻步。先前的西米布甸已經不再有，今次試了合桃糊味道濃甜度適中。 繼續閱讀

事隔兩年，再一次到中環都爹利會館食午餐。今次不知為何比上兩次多了很多人，所以感覺沒有以前咁舒服和寧靜。這裡食物和兩年前差不多，價錢也一定的貴。這裡可選擇的食物不多，所以要的不會是飽肚，而是感覺。而修予這種感覺的，就是身旁的食客。食客以洋人居多，幸好都爹利沒有為遷就洋人而把口味造到西方唐人街般，而是有適量的 fusion 把中國飲食文化和藝術結合。正是這種獨有的感覺，並不是一般酒樓、甚至酒店中菜廳能找到的。只可惜服務比兩年前還差了，飲品差不多食完飯才有，前後倒轉了。食物是敗筆，反而是靠環境和氣氛取勝。 繼續閱讀

Superb food. Must try the XO sauce Cheung Fun. The spicy Cha siu was interesting but I would go back to honey glazed in the future.Food is consistently excellent at Duddell’s. Service isn’t. I ordered a bottle of champagne and instead of repeating my order or pointing on the drinks menu to confirm my ask, the waiter spoke loudly “you want the $xxxx bottle”. I had never experienced such a way to confirm my order and thought it was embarrassing. The bottle did not come with a cloth so while the first pour was ok, the refills were done with the water from the ice bucket dripping from the bottle and from the waiter’s hand. 😳 thirdly, we got prosecco glasses, not champagne glasses. I see other tables having flutes. Wonder why?That morning I actually tried to call the restaurant to make a reservation but left a voicemail. Given that there was no response I managed to find an on line booking site and made the reservation that way. Same time same name same number of guests, same contact details. Half way through dining, the receptionist called and asked if I still needed a table. I told her I was already eating inside the restaurant and she was surprised. This means the 2 systems don’t sync. All in all, my experience was marred by what I feel is a lack of training of the servers. For this price, it could have been better. 繼續閱讀

It was 2018 when I last visited, and this restaurant continues to win the prestigious Michelin award since its opening. Located on Shanghai Tang Mansion in Duddell Street, it has two floors, with the main dining area on the 3/F, where we are seated.The restaurant has a nice cozy ambience, with comfortable sofa seats on the window side, smart use of brass frames on the window to allow the natural light to come in while creating a contemporary vibe. The western setting creates an interesting contrast with the authentic Cantonese cuisine. Ordering a bottle of Ministry of Clouds Tasmania Chardonnay 2019 ($920) to go with my dinner on the night, we started with Duddell’s Appetiser Selection ($168 per person), picking Honey-Glazed Barbequed Pork, Crispy Pork Belly, and Marinated Jellyfish with Cucumber and Vinegar. The crispy pork belly is very good, with a thin layer of crispy skin and well-marinated pork belly underneath. The best though is the barbequed pork, and I would rate it as one of the best in town, with very soft and juicy texture, marinated perfectly, glazed beautifully on the surface with a slight char but not excessive. On the other hand, the jellyfish was a bit disappointing, with the vinegar not really seeped through making them bland and tasteless, and the cucumber also has the same problem. Perhaps not having sufficient time to marinate?For the soup, I have picked Minced Fish Broth with Fish Maw ($298) while my wife has Double-Boiled Chicken Soup with South African Abalone, Wolfberry and Yam ($388). My soup has a nice fragrance from the mandarin peel, but is under-seasoned. While I think perhaps the chef wants to highlight the delicate sweetness of the fish meat, with the fish maw already not having much taste on its own, the soup overall does not have enough flavour. Fortunately, the chicken soup helps to rescue some marks, as my wife love it very much. There are a few chef’s recommendations we have ordered, including Steamed Garoupa with Egg White and 20 Years Huadiao ($298 per person). The fillet of the fresh garoupa is steamed to perfection, fully cooked yet still soft and tender, with some chopped spring onion to add to fragrance and some gold foils to decorate. The wonders also come from the egg white, silky smooth with the right proportion of milk and supreme broth added, very tasty and delicious. The finishing touch of the huadiao sauce enhanced with amazing aromas. Very good and definitely worth trying out. Another recommendation is Deep-Fried Crab Shell stuffed with Fresh Crab Meat with Hokkaido Milk ($278 per person). Served on a nice crab-shaped holder, the nice golden-brown crust already starts my mouth watering. The stuffing was great in taste, with the onion adding a sweetness to the crab meat, and the clever splash of milk bringing forward the flavours further. A slight criticism is that the crab shell is a bit cool down, which I believe is because they are only served after we finished the prior dish. Otherwise, the overall taste will be even better. The Braised Bean Curd with Shrimp Roe and Bamboo Pith ($248) might seem an ordinary dish, but doing it right still requires a lot of skills. The bean curds have absorbed the flavours from the sauce, added with plenty of shrimp roe to enhance the umami note. The bamboo pith has been cooked well, with a clean taste and also taking the flavours from the sauce. The mushroom and choi sum are equally good too. For dessert, I picked Baked Sago Pudding with Chestnut Paste ($68) while my wife has Mixed Bean Sweet Soup ($68). The sago pudding is very good, freshly baked and steaming hot, with the chestnut paste rich in flavours. Even though a bit too sweet for me, with the balance of the sago pudding it does not feel excessive and I enjoy very much. The mixed bean sweet soup is decent as well. Service is good, but like virtually all Chinese restaurant the staff did not explain the dish to the diners, which to me is always the missing opportunity to build further connection with the chef, on the choice of ingredients and how the food is prepared and cooked. The bill on the night is $3,898 and considering the overall experience, a reasonable price. 繼續閱讀