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2015-09-18
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8/10 plates emptied!名廚開的餐廳一般不是引來爭議，就是惹來非議，總會有人大愛的同時也有人拼了老命吐槽。吉碟幫總是很有『正義感』地要去試這些名廚餐廳，一來當然是投奔偶像光環，二來如果他們真的名副其實，也可以為其正名。人生很短暫，真正的『吃貨』經不起任何的美食錯過。What should I say about this place? Jamie’s Italian created much rage over the fact that it was “overrated” for its quality but rather underrated for its sincerity offering delicate homey meals.In the name of Gordon Ramsay, the Gang again received mixed reviews about this place as we were trying to get this review across; Carly revisited BSK at least 2 more
[Written by Carly in English, Gobay in Chinese]
名廚開的餐廳一般不是引來爭議，就是惹來非議，總會有人大愛的同時也有人拼了老命吐槽。吉碟幫總是很有『正義感』地要去試這些名廚餐廳，一來當然是投奔偶像光環，二來如果他們真的名副其實，也可以為其正名。人生很短暫，真正的『吃貨』經不起任何的美食錯過。What should I say about this place? Jamie’s Italian created much rage over the fact that it was “overrated” for its quality but rather underrated for its sincerity offering delicate homey meals.
In the name of Gordon Ramsay, the Gang again received mixed reviews about this place as we were trying to get this review across; Carly revisited BSK at least 2 more times to arrive a rather cohesive conclusion about the food and service.
Astonishing seasoning and execution for poultry dishes, crispy pork belly is to die for; superb desserts to turn heads for; service can be improved with a more welcoming attitude. Uptown vibe and vibrant mix of crowd to transform any dreadful day into an exhilarating night on full blast.
BSK源於倫敦，室內裝潢有點類似Mama San，皮質長椅，吧台，黑白地磚，大幅的落地玻璃，明亮簡潔。整體食物質素是上佳之選，Carly甚至再去了兩次以確保其食物質素的穩定，證明BSK是值得再次光顧。《Starters》
【Sea bass carpaccio, avocado, horseradish 海鱸魚生片配牛油果、辣根醬 | HKD138】One of the less impressive dish at BSK, expected to have a fresher marine taste from the sea bass, the avocado and horseradish did not add much flavor on the notes. The dish tasted rather bland and fish was a bit plastic-y and waxy. Fish carpaccio was never as appealing as raw beef carpaccio. Now Carly vaguely recalls her splendid dining experience at Gold by Harlan as their scallops carpaccio was stunningly impressive and Tango Argentinian Steakhouse’s sea bass ceviche was quite enjoyable too. But let’s not fret about the starters, mains were remarkable and dessert was a home run.
這道是當天『特殊』的菜，因為相對沒那麼好吃……我們寫過TangoArgentinian Steakhouse的Sea Bass Ceviche, 還記得那是相當出色和地道的。相較之下，這個既沒有菜名中『Carpaccio』的薄切口感，也沒有令人驚喜的味道。牛油果的厚重本來就非常危險地可能遮蓋海鱸淡淡的魚味，加上略帶刺激的辣根醬，即使有西柚的清新，我們還是完全嘗不到魚的味道，想來這條海鱸也會死不瞑目啊，多好的魚啊，糟蹋了。海鱸料理的主心應該是突出魚肉如牛油般的厚滑口感，所以根本不需要加牛油果或辣根醬這類口感和口味都偏重的配料。
《Mains》
【Fish and Chips, crushed peas 炸魚柳和薯條 | HKD208】Proof of British chef nailing a traditional comfort food on the spot! Have you ever had the experience of super thick bread-like crust wrapped around your unappealing fish fillet that was absolutely served from frozen fridges and you get confused whether this was the standard of fish and chips in Hong Kong? BSK will alter your thought, noteworthy that Chef Ramsay likes to serve all the dishes at the same time instead of one by one, all the mains were served at once to fill our hungry tummies. Barramundi being known as the Asian sea bass was firm and meaty; not quite very juicy yet the mild flavored fish goes great in that light crispy batter and homemade mayo dip on the side. Slightly buttery and succulent fish are the best fit for comfort food on a draining work day.
對於英國的炸魚柳和薯條，我們可能心裡上一開始時拒絕的，特別是看到對應的價錢後，總覺得還不如去麥當勞吃個魚柳包餐。不過為我們點單的侍應力推說是招牌菜之一，我們唯有硬著頭皮，自我安慰地說傳統英式食品是應該嚐嚐。結論是：幸虧我們聽話！——這個炸魚柳真的非常好吃！魚是港人俗稱『盲鰽』，鱸魚的一種，在澳洲很常見的一種養殖魚。酥炸盲鰽的粉漿不厚而且鬆脆，微甜的魚肉層次分明地濕潤著舌尖，輕輕一頂，你就能感覺到魚片的滑落，牙齒輕碰它就細碎地化在口中，口感味道均達一流層次。本來薯條也是一個主要的元素，但被魚肉征服的我們已經無暇顧及不算特別出彩的薯條，很忙碌地拼命地吃魚……
【BSK short rib burger, Monterey jack cheese, spicy sriracha mayo 招牌牛小排漢堡 | HKD188】The Gang saw drooling pictures of BSK’s renowned short rib burger, expecting much; the half Aussie and half UK mix of meat patty, wasn't exceptionally juicy or rich in flavor, even though stated as grinded by hand, the refined meat texture made one very delicate burgers. Homemade spread of sirarcha mayo was a light touch, mildly-seasoned; apparently sirarcha has been widely used amongst burger places such as Butchers Club’s Wu Tang, the unique sharp spiciness gives off a pleasant acidic sweetness which is well complemented with meaty combos. Burger construction was clean and simple, you can easily finish the burger without sauce and oil dripping all over your fingers yet this was not as good as we expected, to the point, lacked character.
吉碟幫一直致力於尋找香港地最好吃的漢堡包，BSK雖然算不上『最』，但卻是對得起它的價格。它的肉扒是用澳洲牛肉和英國牛肉混合，裡面還有不同牛部位的肉，比如肉眼扒位的肉和牛胸肉等，混合製成的漢堡肉汁豐富，肉味強而且口感煙韌。搭配的Monterey Jack芝士，是美式『white cheddar』的一種芝士，白色比較堅實。 Sriracha Mayo是BSK自家製的辣味蛋黃醬，非常好吃。西方人都偏愛Sriracha辣醬，Butcher’s Club的Wu Tang漢堡也是用了它來調味。這種越南華僑發明的辣椒醬帶點酸甜，沒有很衝擊五感擊潰人味蕾的辣度，不加任何色素很健康，所以近年來風靡全球，成了漢堡和禽肉類的絕配辣醬之一。但麵包卻是還是Jamie’s Italian 最優秀，如果能放到這裡，則幾乎完美，可惜『完美』是可遇而不可求的。
【Traditional shepherd’s pie, braised lamb, onions, carrots, celery, potato puree, parmesan, brioche garlic crumbs 經典牧羊人派| HKD198】Braised lamb flavor stood out amongst the huge combo mix of veggie and herbs, it was British packed in a little piping hot pot, one scoop of shepherd’s pie allowed you to indulge in some mushy creamy mashed potatoes and well-seasoned lamb. It was a bit salty after a few spoons and for non-lamb lovers, please do intend to stay away from it.
Chef Ramsey曾經在電視節目上說過，牧羊人派和炸魚柳是他最愛的英國食品，小時候他母親經常做給他吃，故他餐廳裡的牧羊人派就是按照改進的他母親的食譜來製作的。牧羊人派易做難精，概念上極像意大利人的Frittata，一開始源於媽媽們用廚房剩下的材料做給家人吃的食物。這裡用的是羊肉，羊肉味挺突出的，所以不喜歡羊羶味的食友我們不推薦這道菜。調味偏鹹，這也是牧羊人派最難調控的地方：如何能不那麼鹹？但是土豆泥的細膩程度令人讚歎，這也確實符合Chef Ramsey的一貫標準，他對土豆泥的異常高的標準可能就是源自母親自小為他做派的心意吧。
【Hand cut chips 法式炸薯角 | HKD68】Not particularly impressive. Not as great as Carbone’s crispy spiced up ones, or Doppio Zero’s mind-blowing Pecorino cheese sprinkled mushy hot creamy & crispy potatoes, it reminded Carly of the disappointing Polenta chips at Jamie’s Italian. I know it’s just potatoes, but seriously, it’s the basic ingredients which you can separate good chefs from groundbreaking world-class ones.
目前還是很難有勝得過Carbone的炸/烤薯角，也沒有Doppio Zero的芝士脆皮薯好吃，表現一般。
《Grill》
【Dingley Dell Pork Chop 10oz 英國Dingley Dell牧場10安士豬扒 | HKD228】Juicy, succulent, cooked to its perfection. Taste the fatty goodness as the light grilled crisp on the edges preserved the juice of the pork chop, it altered our perception of dry pork chops we normally have. Just lightly seasoned with a bit of salt and herbs, it was the technique of grills at BSK that was more than impressive, close to astonishing. Carly revisited for dinner and tried their pork belly, even BETTER as the spicy sauce well complemented with the fatty belly, balancing off some of the oiliness yet the juice and fatty goodness was all packed and sealed under the layers of fat and meat. It was more of a surprise as BSK became one of the best places in Hong Kong offering skillfully done grill.
原份的香煎豬扒是西方人餐單上的常見項目，但是非常難做得好，火候很難控制——要在外層不被煎乾的情況下把裡面的肉恰好煎得粉紅色。然而這裡確實展現了大廚功力，完美火候和熟度。豬肉就簡單的用鹽和香草調了一下味，來自英國Dingley Dell牧場的豬肉即使比不上西班牙黑毛豬，但仍然是質素一流，豬肉味濃而香醇。《Dessert》
【Eton mess, strawberries, Chantilly, meringue 傳統英式甜品伊頓雜糕| HKD88】When life makes a mess, have a cup of Eton mess. Traditional British dessert consists of a mixture of whipped cream, meringue pieces, strawberry or any summer fruit, widespread since 19th century as it used to be served at Eton College’s annual cricket game.
Never hard to make but each component was important, meringue did not turn soft after being soaked under the cream, still crispy when we finished the whole cup. And the Chantilly aka whipped cream was whisked till it’s airy and velvety, smooth on the palate and mind-soothing in a guilty way.
伊頓雜糕是19世紀倫敦溫莎小鎮的伊頓公學裡的學生創作的。包含有混合奶油，蛋白霜，和新鮮的夏季水果，大多數會用士多啤梨。它不難做，主要是平衡奶油的幼滑和蛋白霜的甜脆，這裡做得相當地道。
【Sticky toffee pudding, Muscovado caramel, clotted cream 焦糖拖肥布丁 | HKD88】“God class” sticky toffee pudding in the house! LKF Tower is such a nice place to dine at, after discovering the best cheesecake in town at Carbone, BSK’s sticky toffee pudding was dreamily executed with excellence, beyond perfection. First off, not cloying sweet, the baked toffee pudding was still warm; cake was soft and crumbly good as you indulge it with a dope of Muscovado caramel and creamy clotted vanilla cream, you can even taste the baked fragrance of the toffee pudding as the bottom part was slightly burnt, so you get to experience the soft, fragrant, mildly sweet angelic dessert in one bite.
焦糖拖肥布丁也是傳統的英式甜品。這個也是做得非常出色，一點都沒有想像中拖肥的那種『太甜』，布丁暖暖的，非常濕潤，底部稍微有點焦香，一口咬下，可以同時品嚐到柔軟，芳香，微甜三方位的愉悅，很了不起的一道甜品，推薦不怎麼愛吃甜點的食友也可以放心嘗試。
Heard from few folks around us that BSK is overrated, undoubtedly, there is always room for improvement on service and certain food items. Order smart is our recommendation, obviously, read Emptyplates Gang reviews next time before you hit these restaurants headed by famed chefs.
Yet certainly Bread Street Kitchen and Bar scores a higher than Jamie’s Italian for its profound grilling talent and desserts from heaven. (Carly secretly went back 3 times for their Eton mess already *yikes*)
雖然有些人覺得BSK還是屬於『盛名之下，其實不符』，但吉碟幫眾覺得它已經達到了我們的期望值，名廚餐廳裡，它算是比Jamie’s Italian好太多，畢竟Gordan Ramsey是在廚房實打實幹了二十多年奮鬥出來的，廚藝和創意有目共睹。而且英國食品，能做到這樣，已經很不錯了。
Other Info. :
Reservation: +852 2230 1800 or book online via diningconcepts.com
(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
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