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2015-02-05
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8.5/10 plates emptied!坤記老店不易找，因為不靠近地鐵站，要坐電車才能到——在上環西港城總站坐「叮叮」向西營盤方向在第四個站下（上車的站不算）。因為店面小人氣旺，要提前至少3-4天電話訂位，也可以碰運氣，7點以前都比較容易等位。這是一家大排檔式的食肆，千萬別對服務、環境有期待——爆滿時也許你要抱著手袋吃；侍應都是老人了，而且食客幾乎都是熟客，所以對於他們愛理不理或是和別桌吹水以致很久才回應你的呼喚等情況，要有心理準備。總之，一切都只是為了口腹之欲！Gobay是這裡的常客，稱其為至愛五大香港中餐食肆之一，並聲稱每次來都不會失望——除了東西賣完沒得吃以外。由於煲仔飯要等40分鐘，即叫即煮，我們先試了這裡的小炒。先聲明，這篇食評要有一定的耐心才可以看完，因為包含的內容太多，有很多粵菜精華在裡面，會有一定的篇幅。Gobay, as one of the frequent visitors and die-hard fans, brought along the Gang to this hidden gem in Sai Wan, an old-fashioned dist
[Written by Gobay in Chinese, Carly in English]
坤記老店不易找，因為不靠近地鐵站，要坐電車才能到——在上環西港城總站坐「叮叮」向西營盤方向在第四個站下（上車的站不算）。因為店面小人氣旺，要提前至少3-4天電話訂位，也可以碰運氣，7點以前都比較容易等位。這是一家大排檔式的食肆，千萬別對服務、環境有期待——爆滿時也許你要抱著手袋吃；侍應都是老人了，而且食客幾乎都是熟客，所以對於他們愛理不理或是和別桌吹水以致很久才回應你的呼喚等情況，要有心理準備。總之，一切都只是為了口腹之欲！Gobay是這裡的常客，稱其為至愛五大香港中餐食肆之一，並聲稱每次來都不會失望——除了東西賣完沒得吃以外。由於煲仔飯要等40分鐘，即叫即煮，我們先試了這裡的小炒。
先聲明，這篇食評要有一定的耐心才可以看完，因為包含的內容太多，有很多粵菜精華在裡面，會有一定的篇幅。
Gobay, as one of the frequent visitors and die-hard fans, brought along the Gang to this hidden gem in Sai Wan, an old-fashioned district of Hong Kong which shows so many flying colors of authentic Cantonese cuisine you have yet to experience. Efficient, not-too-friendly staff at Kwan Kee might not be the most ideal place if you like to served, yet the mind-boggling food is to die for. Experience what we mean by mastery of skills – “Breath of Fire” in Cantonese cuisine. What does it mean by local, authentic Hong Kong dining experience, this is your place to be.
【豉汁燜涼瓜& 欖菜肉鬆四季豆】HKD50 & HKD55大排檔裡的廣東菜蔬小炒，講究的就是「鑊氣」——BBC曾經有一個蠻精準的翻譯稱其為"Breath of Fire"——上檯時看得到熱煙氣，入口燙舌，一咬之下涼瓜生脆，舌底回味猶甘，還要邊吃邊因為燙嘴發出"嘶嘶"的聲音，這就是「有鑊氣」，是對用火和尖底鑊的大廚的功架發出的由衷讚美。這裡的炒菜特色是爽脆，所以喜愛腍軟的朋友可能不太認同。相較而言，四季豆則沒那麼出色。四季豆雖然新鮮飽滿，但是豆類如果炒得過生過脆，入口未免會有一股菜青味，而且四季豆要軟中帶爽才能有口腔中豆汁四濺的快感，這裡炒得差了火候。
【Sautéed Bitter Melon in Soy Sauce & Sautéed Preserved Vegetable and Minced Pork with Beans】HKD50 & 55Burst of the sweetened soy sauce bean flavors always go so well with the mellow bitter vegetable, the mastery of skills “Breath of Fire” in Cantonese cuisine is profoundly exhibited from these sautéed dishes, the bitter melon and beans were sizzling hot, as if they just bounced out from the wok (dome-shaped pan). “Breath of Fire”: Picture the food freshly diced and being stirred in the huge wok of bursting flaming fire, lively dancing, the power of fire quickly seals the juice and moist of the food whilst having it cooked through. You can even taste the fiery hotness burning on your tongue as the food is served piping hot to the table – magnificence of Chinese cuisine culinary skills. At Kwan Kee, profound culinary skills of controlling the fiery flame of the wok were well-exhibited, without over-burning the vegetables, preserving optimal freshness and slight crunchiness of the beans on the palate.
【椒鹽九肚魚】HKD70Lorling在品嚐時說，『哩度尐炸漿咁好，椒鹽乜都好食架啦！』確實，這裡用來炸海鮮的麵漿非常特別，不是日式的麵包糠炸漿，只是很平凡的粉漿，但很薄很均勻地裹著白嫩的九肚魚，咬開外層的酥脆，裡面「只融在口，唔融在手」的魚肉，口感就是熱版的意大利Panna Cotta，本來潮汕人稱九肚魚為「豆腐魚」，綿軟少骨，應該形容它的口感像豆腐，但它沒有那種Q彈的感覺，單純是粉嫩滑溜，總之就是好吃！強烈推薦！
【Deep Fried Bombay Duck with Spicy Salt 】HKD70“The battered mix here is so nice, anything with spicy salt is going to be nice!” Lorling cried in joy. Undoubtedly, as simple as that, the battered cake flour mix wrapping the seafood/fish would have to be as thin as possible, avoid being floury or doughy. Bombay duck fish was so silkily velvety and soft, like boneless, some people refer them as “tofu fish”! Carly couldn't help and had a couple of these lipsmacking goodies.
【薑蔥生蠔煲】HKD90這個菜是最反映「不時不食」的精髓的，每年十月底開始是本地生蠔的收穫季節，所以不到秋冬是吃不到好的蠔煲，有時候甚至沒得吃。老一輩的香港人都會聽說過流浮山的金蠔和蠔水，那是本地人的驕傲，直到現在還經常有食客專門去流浮山買蠔和蠔水籌備自家的宴會，對食材的質量有著讓人佩服的執著。當然這裡選用的不是金蠔 (有興趣的食客可以到流浮山“尋味金蠔”，但必須要提防「貨不對辦」的情況出現)，一般薑蔥或燜煮都是用稍微小隻一點的蠔，當晚我們吃到的不算大隻，但仍甜美。平心而論，生蠔的裙邊存著很多的水分，煮了以後是會縮水的，所以用平常吃美國White Pearl或是法國Gillardeau生蠔的大小去衡量熟蠔是不公道的。這裡的蠔也是用的本地流浮山的生蠔，三到四年的養殖齡，爽身和甜鮮，咬破蠔身就感受到口腔充盈著豐滿的蠔汁，不濃但也不淡的蠔味在舌邊回盪，加上翠綠的甜蔥，也是很不錯的一道菜。吃熟蠔和吃生蠔不一樣，也許你無法吃到海洋的氣息，但是海鮮的鮮甜以熱汁的形態包裹舌頭每一處味蕾時的感覺，依然會讓人覺得幸福 。
【Shallot and Ginger Oysters served in casserole】HKD90Eating food at their best seasons is a norm and culture all around the globe. Every year around October, it would be their plentiful season and timing for oysters in Hong Kong. Anticipate the come around of autumn or winter if you are looking for fatty good oysters around. Older folks insist in going to Lau Fau Shan – West of Yuen Long to get freshly shucked golden oysters and salty water from the sea and bring them back home or keeping them alive till preparation of the meal at Lau Fau Shan to avoid restaurants using fake golden oysters. Kwan Kee did not serve golden oysters to be table, rather smaller and rounder in size, the creamy and sweet marine flavor are considered above average. Mantle of an oyster contains mostly water and after cooking, oysters will inevitably shrink. It is best not to compare local oysters against American White Pearls or France Gillardeau big tubby elongated ones. Oysters from Lau Fau Shan, on average are 3 to 4 years old, mainly fresh crispy and sweet. Articles claim that there are three stages of how to indulge in an oyster: first comes the seawater saltiness, second the body and sweetness, last finishing off by floral and fruity notes. Indulging in the marine liquor from the oyster itself is another height of simple enjoyment; there is no other food on Earth that can quite replicate one’s dining experience of this beauty from the sea.
【臘味滑雞煲仔飯】HKD75 【白鱔排骨煲仔飯】HKD85主角出場！
烹調煲仔飯的區域是開放式的，每個食客都可以見證每一煲飯的完美誕生。煮一煲上乘的米飯，當中蘊涵的文化和功底往往非同一般。煲仔即「瓦罉」或「砂鍋」。《食經》裡就有專門寫瓦罉煲飯和相米放水的章節；日本料理的壽司飯對於一家壽司店來說簡直就是靈魂般的存在，更有「蒸灶」等專門煮飯的工具。進廚房的人第一學煲水，第二學煲飯。說明煮飯，並非易事。首先是對米的鑑別甄選，其次是煮飯用的水源，再來就是選擇的器皿，最後才是怎麼煮。這裡的煲仔飯選用泰國香米，米和水的比例、火候的控制都非常好，幾乎每一個煲仔飯的米顆粒分明，油潤晶瑩，柔軟有咬口，有米飯獨特的香甜。看師傅的做法是「先武火後文火」—— 先大火煮滾，再小火燜至飯收水，形成鍋巴。
【Clay pot Rice with Preserved Sausages & Chicken 】 HKD75【Clay pot Rice with Rice Eel & Spare Ribs】HKD85
Here comes the ROCKSTAR of the night!
Open kitchen setting let diners observe what exactly is happening in that basic kitchen of Kwan Kee’s. It takes extraordinary skills and combinations of elements to create one perfect sizzling hot clay pot rice. Clay pot cooking method has been prominent around the globe – as the food in clay pot loses little to no moisture as it is surrounded by steam, creating the moistly tender flavorsome dish. Juniors who come into the kitchen will need to learn first: how to boil water, then how to cook rice. Seems easy, hard to master. Clay pot rice in Chinese cuisine often uses Jasmine rice, relatively pointy and skinny. Formula to Kwan Kee’s scrumptiously amazing clay pot rice: golden ratio of rice and water and the balanced control of timing and intensity of fire when food and rice are cooked into that clay pot. Each grain of rice is separable on the palate, crystal clear with a nice touch of oil from the preserved sausages and chicken fat, burst of savory aroma, soft and chewy simultaneously, elevates the unique sweetness of rice. It is crucially important to use strong intensity of fire to boil the uncooked rice and then turn to medium low fire, so the rice will absorb the broth/essence from the cooked meat and get cooked thoroughly – forming an enjoyable thin layer of golden rice crisp around the pot.
雞在米七成熟的時候放入，雞的油脂就會慢慢滲進米粒中，形成濃香。很多人以為把臘腸放進飯裡燜熟是最好的，但那只是懶人的做法，要真正吃出臘腸的口感，甘香脆潤，就只能隔水蒸，然後飯熟了再放上。如果和飯一起煮，米水的蒸汽直接接觸腸衣，會導致臘腸或潤腸太乾太韌，甚至把腸衣泡脹破了。跟飯的醬油是老抽，有種微甜的鮮——這是畫龍點睛的關鍵步驟——把醬油淋在飯上，然後拌勻了再吃，能起到提鮮的作用。最讓人享受的是起飯焦（鍋巴）的過程，這裡的飯焦是可以整片整片地從鍋裡扒下來，金黃焦香的飯焦脆脆地混合著柔軟的香米一起吃，口感非一般地好！Chicken slices will be placed in the
clay pot by the time when the rice is 70% cooked, the essence of chicken oil will eventually spread to each grain of rice, forming a rich and irresistible aroma. General presumption of putting preserved sausages (lap cheong 臘腸) into the pot, cooking that with the uncooked rice was the best way of cooking. Consider that as the lazy way of cooking and not the most ideal; cooking lap cheong with the rice together will easily make the sausage casing break, sucking all the moist from the already preserved sundried meat as it is boiled under heat with the rice, leaving the lap cheong dry, losing its palatable oil and fatty juice. Add a light spoon of dark soy sauce, stir it with the rice, freshness of the meat will be quickly enhanced – another noteworthy factor that makes a perfect pot of rice.
吃完後我們甚至能看到鍋底反射出一層油光，粒米不剩，這就是上乘的煲仔飯帶給我們的感動。臘味、滑雞、白鱔和排骨似乎都成了配角，但還是稍微說一下吧：白鱔在煲仔飯中並不常見，但當晚吃的白鱔口感偏腍軟，並不十分出色；臘腸和臘肉是好吃的，不會過老，把臘腸和飯一起放進嘴裡，油脂爆開的瞬間包裹著米粒，也是一種很讓人陶醉的吃法。
Kwan Kee’s overpoweringly mastery culinary skills are fully demonstrated in a simple down-to-earth of piping hot clay pot rice – golden brown crispy, crunchy layer of rice crisp, shiny oil left at the bottom, airy crispy and not too hard on the edges. Never undercooked or overcooked, cooked rice absorbing all the essence and oil from the savory meat, making this UNBEATABLE, LIPSMACKINGLY GOOD. Even for Carly and Lorling as a non-rice lover, they were both astonished at what this traditional authentic place has to offer. Gobay was absolutely right, the rice eel and spare ribs were all considered as side casts as the rice was cooked to its perfection, leaving you this heavenly satisfied blissfulness, and an immense appetite of coming back for more.
我們當晚沒有容量把招牌豬骨煲和羊腩煲一起品嘗了，但Gobay極力推薦之下，我們下次再來就要嘗試這兩個冬日名菜。這裡雖然等位比較艱難，而且由於店面擠，坐得不算舒服，甚至看到有人是要搭檯的，但食物的味道實在讓人回味，推薦成為定期飯堂的選擇之一，畢竟，我們都只是為了吃一口好飯菜。
The Gang has yet to try Kwan Kee’s signature pork bones hot pot and lamb brisket, it is very likely that we will pay a return visit soon, catching the last chill of winter! Very reasonably priced accustomed Cantonese dining place, no fancy decor, absolutely no friendly service yet the food matters – and just for that CLAY POT RICE. A million words are not enough to describe the palatable amusement from a sublime old-fashioned bowl of rice. We rated this 8.5 out of 10 – highest rated restaurant so far, there must be a reason.Gobay話你知 :
用瓦罉（砂鍋）煲飯煮菜的好處：
其實在電飯鍋和金屬鍋尚未問世之前，國人一直都是用瓦器煮米飯的，當時沒覺得有什麼矜貴之處。其實瓦罉的特點是傳熱均勻，散熱慢所以保溫得好，這樣食物的原汁原味更容易被保留，連香味也一樣較容易集中揮發出來。
關於米的鑑別：
其實除了泰國香米（Jasmine Rice），廣東也有讓人驕傲的白米，《食經》中提到增城絲苗米和南海鹽步的齊眉油粘米。這些都屬於「尖仔米」，有相當一部分人喜歡吃「珍珠米」，比如東北盤錦，黑龍江五常，日本的池上，越光等等。米有太多種類了，連TVB電視劇《巾幗梟雄》也專門以清朝江南的米業為背景的，當中曾提及不少米的種類和種植的話題。米的種類不一樣，吸水的程度就不一樣，所以「相米放水」完全是一個經驗活，要時間和試驗練出來的。
香港本地生蠔：
香港的后海灣是生蠔養殖基地，處於鹹淡水交界，最適合蠔的生長。靠近后海灣的流浮山就是最出名食本地靚蠔的地方。上面提到的金蠔指的是選取大隻的肥美肉厚的白蠔，開殼取肉放入暖水稍微泡得半生熟狀，再生曬一天半左右得到的蠔（秋冬晴天才只需一天半，長短按天氣季節而定）。由於金蠔很珍稀，以前一般只拿來珍藏和送禮，像日本的禾麻乾鮑一樣，後來才逐漸流入食肆。想煮熟的蠔咬開後鮮嫩多汁，奧妙就是要將它在炒或燜之前放進微沸的水（俗稱「蝦眼水」，指水在沸騰前會有許多像蝦眼大小的氣泡，此時水溫大約在80度）走幾下，把蠔汁鎖住然後再烹調。至於「蠔水」（蠔油膽），指的是將生蠔煮出的汁熬成精華液。如果蠔體肥美多肉，大約10斤能熬出500ml的蠔水，一般的比例大約是1.5%左右，就是100斤的蠔只能熬出1.5斤的蠔水，簡直是精華中的精華。我們市面上的蠔油就是拿少量蠔水搭配其他材料製成的。香港曾有海味達人說過100公斤的蠔油是用1公斤的蠔水調配而成的，可想而知蠔水是多麼的貴重。
Gobay Food Knowledge Corner:
Why use Clay pots for cooking?
Clay pots were commonly used as the equipment for cooking before the introduction of electronic rice cookers. It wasn't until they replaced the traditional clay pots then we started to notice how valuable and unique they were. Clay pots’ heat distribution are fairly even, takes time for heat to be distributed throughout yet excellent in keeping the food warm and moist inside, even the scent and aroma can be concentrated in that little clay pot.
Distinguish the Rice
Well-known amongst Asia, Thailand Jasmine rice, long pointy grain type of rice gives a nutty aroma with subtle pandan-like flavor, is the favorite amongst households and local restaurants. Guangdong proudly produces their white rice, another type of long grain. Prevalent ones also include Japanese Koshihikari (越光), relatively short translucent grains, somewhat sticky, more chewy on the palate and often referred as sushi rice in general. Over 40,000 of rice varieties are found around the globe, each with different aroma, grain type, texture, cultivation and moistness. Amount of water and cooking time for rice is an entire lifetime learning process which only time will accumulate that experience.
Local Hong Kong Oysters
Deep Bay is a bay off the northwest coast of Lau Fau Shan, fresh water from the surroundings are flushed to the bay, creating this margin of fresh water and salt water, is an ideal breeding location for oysters. The ecology of the bay benefits oysters’ cultivation, being prominent in Hong Kong for fisheries and freshly shucked oysters. Golden oysters by definition are large, tubby white oysters being soaked in warm water, making them halfway cooked, then dry them under the sun for one and half days. Golden oysters are rare in kind, used to be for gifts or collections, yet they have been gaining popularity amongst local diners too. Trick to cook impeccable oysters is to quickly cook them for a few seconds in hot 80C water to lock down the juice within. “Oyster water” as the key to delicious thick oyster sauce is the elixir of the essence, 10 kg of oysters can produce 500ml of the water, condensing it down to 1.5% of those juicy goodies. Oyster sauce sold at supermarkets will mix “oyster water” with other seasoning to create the household sauce that goes well with almost any Chinese stir fry dishes. Experts once stated that 100kg of oyster sauce will use up to 1kf of “oyster water”, this clearly indicates how precious and valuable the “water” itself is.
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