g.e (gastronomy extra|ordinaire) (已結業)

是我第1次認真試一餐份子料理, 失望而回。不能說他們的東西不好吃, 但總括而言我真係唔知自己食過D乜。 呢度有3個唔同theme既房, 老細好有心機同做左好多功課, 是浮誇, 但誇得起。 印象深刻是那銀色的房, 你說古典又不是, 你說現代又卻帶經典古式元素, contemporary classic? 或者好多人都會比玩味什重的旋轉掛鐘所吸引, 但其實整餐廳的華麗不只單一角落的高貴。 如果按裝修的話, 可能係全香港我最喜歡既餐廳, 除了ICC101的田字頭日本餐外。我故意不看menu, 讓我的朋友去點餐, 就看看不像蠔的蠔有否蠔味。 結果是強差人意! 你說食物的presentation, 其實還有更多改進空間, 至於味道方面我不懂欣賞。這道菜, 不知什麼名堂, 但賣相讓我想起中學時代上美術課後, 清潔的那畫面。 不是不漂亮, 是有點虛無縹緲, 想不到紅的有點瓜味, 黃色的有點肉味! 真是測試味蕾的最好時候, 而樓下的爆炸糖, 竟然是清淡得沒什麼味道。終於知道這是什麼, 是我杯茶, 因為我吃steak是喜歡raw, 只要四邊稍熟就可以了, 柔軟得像棉花糖一樣, 扒的質素很高沒半點腥或異味, sauce很清淡, 吃過這碟菜後覺得師傅的非分子料理更好吃。 繼續閱讀

女友和我喜歡周圍試新嘢，今次晚餐選擇咗 ge環境不俗，很有特色餐牌分 Tasting Menu 及 A la Carte...我和女友選了８course tasting menu $1300 per person，但全程你唔知食ma，要等每道菜上的時候才會知道。我和女友不是十分喜歡這樣的安排，最低限度也應該事先讓我們知道每度菜的主材料...最終我們是消費者 (要比錢埋單)食物方面: 不是我們杯茶，太過偏重分子料理。當要用真功夫烹飪時 (例如 sweet bread) 就不合格招呼方面：個 waitress 介绍每道菜都唔清唔楚 (可能唔知道菜係甚麽都唔定) 又细聲，女友話次次都聽唔道佢講ma 埋單連酒水及加一 $5131.5 (這個價錢大把選擇)，另外酒水方面的價錢比較偏貴餐廳每個地方也有不同的主題和裝飾有創意...Italian Egg Yolk, Chicken Consomme & Preserved Ginger 賣相十分，味道零分完全唔知食緊係蘆筍，因為係分子料理。女友突然間叫我跟住去打邊爐，我問佢點解...佢話Ｄ嘢唔好食，得嗰樣又唔飽Brill, Squids, Spinach & Black Ink Sauce 這個算是全晚最好的一道菜Sweet Bread & Artichoke，Sweet Bread 過咗火，又老又旱而且味道麻麻賣相不錯，但你唔知食緊 ma，因為無 menu 而個 waitress 又介绍得唔清唔楚 繼續閱讀

奇妙樂園一般是用來形容主題公園, 但是夜參與嚐味晚宴的餐廳 G.e, 真的用得上這個稱號, 當然還有其美輪美奐的室內的設計, 幾個獨特場景的主題房間, 在奇妙樂園之上還要添加"華麗"這個形容詞才更合適, 能夠在這裡和幾個食友共渡驚喜萬分的一夜, 確要謝謝餐廳和公關的邀請.餐廳位於帝樂文娜公館2樓, 本身公館的設計已經極盡前衛, 特意選擇由樓梯登上餐廳, 從中感受更多既古亦今的場景氣氛. 由正門步入餐廳, 先到達了酒吧區, 親切的公關和其他食友在這裡先交談一會, 之後便引領我們步入用餐區; 大致分作四個空間, 每個都有不同主題, 我們亦有幸參觀了其中三間, 最浪漫美麗的一間Eden, 是夜有客人使用, 無緣跟她近距離接觸...我們被安排在Black "黑房"中用餐, 因燈光實在偏暗, 餐廳特意把光線調光一點, 讓我們能容易一些拍照, 貼心的關注. 是夜品嚐的是每位$999 的嚐味menu, 食物由意籍主廚Ganluigi Bonelli 發板, 有點像日本的Omakase course 一樣, 不同的是, 這裡的菜式經常轉變, 只要大廚靈感一到, 便會有新菜式出現, 所以今次能吃到的, 下次來的時候, 未必再有機會品嚐, 絕對要好好細味每道菜的真髓.G.e 做的是Progressive Cuisine, 不屬於任何一個國家的料理, 亦不屬於任何一個派系的烹調手法, 他就是有他的一套, 不會拘泥於形式限制, 以無形勝有形, 一種食材放在Bonelli手裡, 會變化出萬個可能, 心裡不禁充滿期待!!未正式進入用餐前, 先喝了餐廳為我們安排的香檳, 在迷人的情調下, 再給酒精陶醉一下, 心裡的快樂指數迅速提升, 一個美好的開始.先送上逗嘴小吃 Amuse bouche, 侍者送上一朵玫瑰花和一個樣子像沙冰的小吃; 美麗的玫瑰花未放進嘴裡, 已經逗得在場的女士們連眼睛都微笑起來, 再把她往嘴裡送, 原來是一顆海綿蛋糕, 口感軟軟綿綿, 舌頭嚐到夾雜著植物清新和鮮肉咸香的味道, 既複雜又醉人, 連我也笑了.另一個用細長酒杯盛著的沙冰, 要用匙羹直插進底部, 把幾層不同味道的夾層一起送進口裡, 嚐到了檸檬和熱情果的清新, 再加上冰凍的口感, 一下子把炎夏的熱力, 迅間冷卻起來, 換來是透心涼的微笑.G.e 繼續發揮"你估我唔到"精神, 突然來了一個用外賣盒盛著的炸香芋片給我們品嚐, 我們一口香檳一口炸芋片, 感覺有如在老友家中, 把酒歡聚, 加上香芋片帶濃郁的芋香, 脆口但不油膩, 多吃也沒問題, 讓我們更加放鬆的環節.先上第一道菜my color, 是屬於意籍主廚的顏色, 由綠, 白, 紅組成的構圖, 清楚聯想到意大利國旗; 新鮮的火箭菜鮮甜爽口，水牛芝士外滑，內裡呈糖心蛋狀態，是保持得不錯的burata, 芝士冰帶來新鮮口感；蕃茄用三個不同狀態呈現眼前，有乾蕃茄，鮮蕃茄，還有蕃茄冰，蕃茄粉絲必定感動；但奇妙處還不只於此，當各種味道混合起來的時候，會產生更多預計不到的味道變化，我們就在一片驚喜中，完成了這道＂我的顏色＂。經過意大利國旗的洗禮之後，侍者放了些茶碗在檯上，隨之注入熱騰騰的流質液體，當大家以為是湯品，又一次... 估錯了。過了約5分鐘，侍者再把另一半頂層放在茶碗上面，組合了一個像香座的擺設。觀賞過後再把它一分為二，先品嚐底層，白色流質已變成半固體，試吃一口，原來是豆腐，再吃深一點，還有三文魚子在底部，鮮香混雜著豆香，讓人回味的享受。上層則放了些蜆肉，旁邊伴著椰奶和藍色爆谷，很海洋的顏色；把它們拌勻後同吃，很有泰國料理的味道，也突出了蜆肉鮮甜，同樣喜歡的頭盤。驚喜停不了, 侍者端上了一個長身弧形的玻璃罩, 裡面煙霧迷漫, 看不清內裡是甚麼... 過了一會, 侍者打開了玻璃罩, 原來入面放的是牛油, 經過煙燻後的牛油充滿著蘋果木香, 塗在薄薄脆片上同吃, 口腔內彌漫著牛油香, 蘋果木香, 脆片的咸香, 與別不同的美味.房間突然傳來一陣松露香氣, 原來是隨之而來的料理味道, 黑松露, 粟米慕絲和粟米餅, 還有巴馬火腿, 又是想也沒有想過的組合, 但卻美味非常, 為我們的味覺記憶添上新的資料.之後是一式三組的料理, 對, 雖然名為六道菜的晚餐, 但實際吃了多少道菜已經有點模糊了, 這也是其中一個好玩之處. 三樣料理均為一口份量, 小巧精型; 先品嚐帶子刺身, 帶子肉本身爽口清甜, 調味帶一點點辣, 另外還附有一個帶蔬菜味的字母, 聯想起小時侯愛吃的字母通心粉; 之後試吃用切碎的墨魚做的意大利飯, 鮮甜的墨魚汁配襯彈牙的墨魚肉, 又是一個亮點; 最後試吃了帶子天婦羅, 薄薄的炸皮輕輕地包裹著帶子肉, 外脆內鮮, 同樣滿足.再來了一個間場小吃, 牛油果打成的忌廉配合黑魚子, 舌頭品嚐了咸, 鮮, 甜, 還有牛油果的豐厚感覺, 讓人興奮的小點.之後連續品嚐了兩個主菜, 先上是Flat, 清蒸龍脷魚放中間, 四邊放了多種食材, 豐富的組合; 濃縮了蟹脂汁液, 最叫人驚嘆, 另外蔬菜全部能嚐到植物的綠色味道; 反而魚肉不會有太大驚喜, 尚可以做得更出色.另一個主菜是羊肉, 能吃到羊肉的羶香味, 肉質嫩滑, 和著伴碟的芒果汁同吃, 教我們著迷了!!到了讓人心動的甜品時間, 先上是甜品前的甜品, 一個小杯盛著乳酪和紅桑子醬, 酸酸甜甜的味道, 配搭幼滑的口感, 有讓舌頭煥然一新的感覺.真正的甜品終於出場了, 另類的黑森林, 用朱古力雪糕伴一片薄薄的威化餅, 兩旁還有甜美的櫻桃, 軟綿綿的綿花糖, 上面還放了一條朱古力意大利粉, 一個全新定義的黑森林味道, 讓在坐每位都讚嘆不已!最後的petit four 時間, G.e 還是忘不了給我們驚喜, 一塊長方形的木板上分散地擺放了不同字母甜點, 驟眼看上去像是小孩子的學習玩具, 讓人有回到童年時的感覺; 還有那一片片像咭片似的甜點, 也叫人難忘!! 還有一個像珠寶箱的盒子內, 珍而重之地放了幾顆白色小圓球, 把它放在舌頭上, 千萬不要嘴嚼, 慢慢球體便會轉化成濃濃的芒果汁液, 徐徐地流進身體內; 最好玩的是望著對座的食友把圓球放入嘴內, 又不敢嘴嚼, 眼內流露出像小孩子般天真無邪的期待, 很有意思的小甜點!!即使是到了最後, G.e 還不放過"你估我唔到"的方程式, 這次更是加倍地玩得淋漓盡致; 我們面前放了一個白色的小盤子, 裡面有一顆像薄荷糖的東西, 之後上演了讓我們低呼驚叫的一幕...太精彩, 太好玩的一頓嚐味晚餐, 再一次謝謝餐廳的招待, 還有親切, 風趣的兩位公關, 為我們帶來一夜歡樂; 一定會介紹更多愛吃, 愛玩的朋友來體驗一下, 這個既是餐廳也是奇妙樂園的好地方. 繼續閱讀

.....Parma ham, polenta cake, black truffle - the unique aroma of black truffle was overwhelming and you couldnt help but 'wow' at the beautiful presentation of the dish. Tricoloured it was - brown, yellow and white, resembling earth and nature maybe? The white foam and meringue were processed milk, and the yellowish part were polenta cake processed in different ways. It was so complex and interesting - digging in was like adventuring down a dark alley, you simply dont know what to expect and what's ahead, but whatever you come by, they are AMAZING. Beneath the thinly sliced black truffle were parma ham, red cabbage and a mushy cake of - polenta, was it? I disremembered - all i know was that it was DELICIOUS, whatever it was made of. So far our food came in relatively 'conventional' containers until these. I decided to call these the 'Seafood Trio' as they were all seafood, scallop and squid to be more precise. First there was a silver spoon with scallop tartare, seasoned with chilli, and a letter 'c' made of - compressed broccoli? Damnit, it was SO refreshing. The letter C was extraordinary as you would have thought you were eating a stalk of broccoli, only that it had adapted a new rubbery texture. Next was the scallop tempura served on a light metal container which looked like a bloom's end to me. The coating was thin and the warm scallop was smooth and fresh, while the green bit on top was relatively cold, but the contrast in temperature further enhanced the complexity of the tempura that no sauce nor dippings were necessary anymore - thoughtful. Last was the squid ink risotto - at least that's what we were told it was. And it looked like it was with the grains of rice in it, and it was not until we all took a bite that Kenny told us it was all squid and no rice. Yes, they chopped the squid so finely until they resembled rice grains and cooked them in squid ink and lily bloom. I am not a big fan of lily bloom but together with the squid ink it tasted better than what I had thought it would be. Intermezzo - for refreshing our taste buds we were given avocado with caviar, poked on a transparent red plastic stick. The avocado was creamy and the unique freshness of caviar rushed out as the coating burst in your mouth - whoa. Stunning.Fish - we had steamed sole with crab bisque sauce, flowers, curry-flavoured pasta, and more flowers. Omgosh, the dish looked so floral and gardenly to me! What surprised me most as there was steamed white fungus in it and it was a very 'Chinese' ingredient - that's what 'globalization' means, i guess.The fungus was soft, and despite its pale colour it had picked up so much flavour from the broth and fish. The veggies and flowers were refreshing, and the steamed sole was light and soft. What surprised me the most was the brown jelly of crab bisque. Burst it with a fork, and the rich seafood flavor came rushing out. If only i had a spongy bread to soak up the bisque!Roast - lamb belly with mustard, ricotta cheese and etc. The three pieces of lamb looked dry and tough on appearance but they turned out to be almost the BEST lamb I have ever had.The meat was soft and tender, nicely roasted,having just the right amount of fat, and the unique taste of lamb was pleasantly intense - lamb lovers(like me!) would fall for this for sure! While the mustard sauce was light and succeeded in balancing the grease of the meat, the cubes of deep fried ricotta cheese was absolutely glamourous.The outer crust was of the perfect golden brown color and the interior was runny yet cheesy, and it was a funny contrast to the (unprocessed?) lump of whitish ricotta cheese by its side. The thin sweet potato crisp and the thick cut of steamed sweet potato were equally delicious. All in all - delicious and it is indeed something i'd crave for more!Refreshment before dessert - yogurt with raspberry compote to calm the palate and refresh the taste buds, also to prepare us for the upcoming desserts, something we had all been so looking forward to. We were asked to dig deep into the bottom of the cup so as to savour the different ingredients and flavours. And there it was - raspberry compote, perfect to eat with the tarty and light yogurt - was it greek yogurt? Anyway - I was completely refreshed and ready for whatever sweet that's coming up next, and hell yea i LOVE that cute little wooden spoon!Dessert - ah, so there we were at last! Chocolate, marshmallow, preserved cherry, crushed biscuit and etc. were what we had. The taste of it largely resembled the classic Black Forest but the texture was much, much more complex and interesting - first there was the creamy and rich scoop of chocolate ice cream sat on thin cocoa wafers, and beneath the crisps were nicely roasted mashmallows. You could never go wrong with chocolate and roasted mashmallows - remember the comforting smores we had whenever we go BBQ? now THIS tasted so much like the delicious snack beside the flames.The long dark brown string was a crispy 'chocolate speghetti', and the green thing was - guess what? - CELERY. OMGOSH! The pickled cherries had a subtle hint of liquor and was slightly bitter on the preserved skin, and the jelly (which looked like black pudding to me) where everything were sat on was unexpectedly smooth in texture and yet intensely COCOA-ish. And i love the yellowish sand-like biscuit crumbs - not very buttery and greasy but SO aromatic. oh my god.The Petit fours came on a heavy metal flat pan.At one corner there were thin light blue slices that looked more like glass than something edible. With several sprays of edible perfume they were magically transformed into - candies. YES, candies that melts on your tongue...wicked.The letters were milk chocolates while the coins were dark chocolate with runny caramel(?) fillings.The yellow citrus candies in edible transparent wraps was slightly chewy but oh-so-summerish and refreshing!What surprised me were the small cubes of green apple candies poked at the tip of the fine metal antenna. I would have considered it a decoration rather than something edible on the metal pan!And - guess what? The feast hadnt come to an end yet. We were brought a delicate jewel box and in there rested 6 pearls.We were asked not to bite nor chew but to let it melt on our tongue. 3 seconds and the crust burst open, and came rushing out was fresh and sweet mango juice. I went like 0,0 as i was completely SURPRISED. who'd expect to find mango sauce in a pearl?And at last came a final anticlimax which i think should be left for you to savour....it was the best way to end the feast of the night. We certainly had way more than 6 courses, each having a strong and unique character on their own, and all soooo thoughtfully cooked and beautifully arranged. It was fun guessing what was in the dish, so adventurous and stimulating, yet the flavour had not been compromised - tomatoes tasted like tomatoes, fish tasted like fish and lamb tasted like lamb. The only thing that had been played with were the textures and temperatures of the ingredients, and it could only be done and mastered if only you have complete knowledge of their chemical properties. My highest respect to Chef Bonelli - the alchemist, the magician, the mastermind behind the pleasant surprises and adventures I experienced throughout the night. You ROCK! 繼續閱讀

一改再改的g.e局，終於姍姍而來，吊足了胃口。之前亦在飲食雜誌上聽聞這間餐廳的背景與其主廚Chef Gianluigi Bonelli的光輝歲月，而所謂的progressive dining，又是怎樣一種滋味？位於帝文娜公館二樓，由四間風格迥異的主題房組成，或陰沉血腥，或明媚純白，有宛如天堂的花之屋，亦有時光逆轉的神秘火車。而我們一行六人，則要在黑漆漆的"Hell"進餐，正擔心相機要悲劇之時，兩位公關提出不如開燈以方便影相，委實是無言感激。用餐伊始，先來一杯香檳暖一暖胃，溫潤的酒香混合了蜜桃的香甜，想就此沉醉？未免為時過早了吧！天性愛花，看到羞答答的玫瑰，摟住紅撲撲的海綿蛋糕，心也隨即砰砰的跳；可卻不容得含蓄，將整塊蛋糕擺入口中，去感受那綿綿的、幾乎可以融化的紅菜頭之清甜，間中又隱匿著淺淺的咸香，那滋味，溢於言表。甜與咸以外，也送上幾許夏日的酸爽，檸檬味道的泡沫懸浮於以熱情果與芒果調和而成的冰沙之上，去化解濃濃的暑意等開胃菜的當兒，也不忘送來一小盒炸芋頭片，香口之餘飄散著幾絲芋香，炸得乾爽而表面不帶一丁點油，你說這是fine dining?怎麼還傳來『喀吃喀吃』嚼薯片的聲響？小食過後，又是色彩絢爛的一道，火箭菜的深綠、水牛芝士的純白再配上蕃茄的火紅，輕柔的在你耳邊低語——“Italian”；更忘不了水牛芝士幻化而來的雪花融化於口的一霎，抑或是紅寶石盒內蕃茄雪芭傾灑而出的一刻。與絢麗對應的，是純白又素淨的豆腐花，柔滑的外衣下，隱藏著幾顆淘氣的三文魚籽，為純淨的豆香注入一絲海洋的氣息另一邊，蜆貝與椰奶則帶來另一番滋味，以濃郁的椰香襯托出蜆的鮮甜，而兩塊藍得耀眼的爆谷脆，帶著幾分玩味與稚氣，唱著一曲海之狂想。以為就這樣沉醉於海洋的氣息，驀地擠入一股的濃烈的煙薰味，彷彿中學化學實驗課上那熟稔的氣味，定睛一看，原來是這四四方方的牛油在搗鬼。聚集的熱度令其柔而不溶，塗抹在薄身咸香的脆片上，恍惚吃到帶點木頭氣息的焦香醉人的夜晚，又怎能少得了黑松露的迷情？難解的是這次的主角卻是本來貌不驚人的粟米，經廚師的一雙妙手，或打磨成慕斯，或做成糕點，那質樸、甜絲絲的粟米香，與矜貴幽深的黑松露恍如天上人間，被俗氣香艷的帕爾瑪火腿拉到一起，構成了這妙不可言的碰撞。隨後一陣海風又襲過，帶來的竟是最愛的帶子，並非純淨的鮮甜，卻夾雜著一絲辣意。至於為何是Letter H，James快言快語：Coz you're a happy girl！清涼過後，再嚐嚐熱氣噴香的帶子天婦羅，粉漿外衣酥脆而單薄，全然擋不住內裡的爽甜與鮮嫩而後欣喜的看到心儀的墨汁意大利飯，本還期待那al dente的口感，誰知，入口竟然是充滿彈性，原來那看似飽滿的小圓米粒，是由切碎的墨魚偽裝而來。淺淺的一碟吞下去，除了滿嘴的鮮美，大概還有一口黑牙吧！也是時候令味蕾休憩片刻，送上入口有如雪糕般幼滑的牛油果醬，配以黑魚子醬的鮮甜，不禁在想，之後等待我們的又是什麼？原來是清蒸龍利魚配蟹肉濃湯，輔以銀耳、節瓜、意粉等食材，繪出一幅春意盎然的畫卷。最驚艷是那醇厚的蟹肉濃湯，濃縮了蟹膏的濃香，連蘸上它的銀耳也變得無比鮮美。只可惜主角煮得稍久，少了魚肉該有的嫩滑，有點失色了。海味要鮮，而羊肉，當然是要羶的才好吃，要再帶上一點飽含脂香的腩，堪稱完美。僅有羶還不夠，還要再添一絲酸甜清爽的芒果醬，配上ricotta cheese的濃滑…怎麼越飽卻越精彩？懶理偷偷鼓起來的肚皮，心卻開始雀躍，味蕾也開始跳舞。而這令我怦然心動的魔鬼原來是朱古力慕斯伴車厘子與朱古力雪糕，將朱古力的甘醇濃厚、櫻桃的甜美多汁、棉花糖的細軟纏綿、以及餅碎的細膩噴香融於一體。經典的黑森林組合，卻被主廚重造出如此的精彩。末了，是更加玩味十足的petit four，最難忘記的卻是最不起眼的一小粒綠色啫哩，怎料到入口一化開，是紫蘇葉的氣味。那獨特的甘香叫醒了方才的甜夢，是時候收場了。哪知，還不是終點。擺在神秘盒中的，是晶瑩剔透的珍珠，也是甜美香濃的白巧克力，融化的那一霎，湧出來的竟是香甜清爽的芒果汁。主廚帶給我們最後的視覺宴席，是遇水會膨脹開來的濕紙巾，可別太嘴饞，把它也一併吞下去了…這一夜，身陷地獄，邂逅的卻是恍如置身仙境的奇遇。你說這所謂的progressive dining，又是怎樣一種滋味？ 繼續閱讀