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2025-03-29
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Today we visit Teppanyaki Tempura Shun, located on 45/F of Four Seasons Hotel in Central. Just adjacent to the famous Michelin-starred Sushi Saito, it is a relatively small space, with a bar counter that can accommodate 10 customers, with the two chefs busy preparing the dishes in front.The décor has not changed from the days of Tempura Uchitsu, with the signature fish tank on the background, with the plants showing lush green while the small fishes and shrimps in the tanks swimming around. The
Today we visit Teppanyaki Tempura Shun, located on 45/F of Four Seasons Hotel in Central. Just adjacent to the famous Michelin-starred Sushi Saito, it is a relatively small space, with a bar counter that can accommodate 10 customers, with the two chefs busy preparing the dishes in front.
The décor has not changed from the days of Tempura Uchitsu, with the signature fish tank on the background, with the plants showing lush green while the small fishes and shrimps in the tanks swimming around. The dinner omakase menu costs $2,680 each, and upon booking one needs to pay 50% deposit to secure the reservation.
I order a bottle of Isojiman 磯自慢 雄町40 純米大吟醸 ($2,280). The sake has been fermented using extremely low temperature, allowing a more profound fruity note to present itself, with also a smooth and elegant taste. A good sake to match with the food on the night, though quite over-priced.
The first course includes four appetizers. Starting from the lower left corner, Green Peas Tofu has a soft texture, infused with umami flavours from the clam broth. The seasonal Firefly Squid is paired with some young Bamboo Shoot, having white miso to season. The Tomato Jelly provides a refreshing touch to the palate and finishing with Wagyu Sushi. Decent in taste but not impressive.
The second course features Wagyu Shabu Shabu. The lightly poached beef is placed in a clear dashi broth made with kombu and bonito, with also some finely shredded vegetables to provide the finesse and balance with the meat. The soup is elegant and rich in taste too. A nice combination and we both like this one.
The third course is the Kuruma-Ebi Head Tempura. The tiger prawn comes from Kagoshima and the chef has deep-fried the head making it crunchy and edible. The homemade sea salt adds to the flavours but not too salty. While able to keep the tempura without oiliness, it was not as well done as Tempura Utchitsu.
Then comes the body of the Kuruma-Ebi. The batter is thin, with the prawn having a good sweetness in taste. This remains one of the signature tempuras in the menu.
The fifth course is Sawara, with the thick fillet of the Spanish mackerel nicely grilled, remaining moist but well-cooked. The chef has paired a white sesame sauce to bring complexity to the fish while on top there are fried burdock and seasonal nanohana. Quite good and not feeling any greasiness on the palate.
Returning to tempura, the sixth course features Asparagus. Again, the batter is thin, wrapping the asparagus but did not create the feeling of eating just the crispy dough. The tenderness and sweetness of the asparagus is wonderful, without any fibre.
The seventh course is Tai Sashimi, with the sea bream having a firm texture and good sweetness in taste. Paired with shoyu the umami flavours are further highlighted. Very nice.
Then it is the Uni Tempura. Like what I recall from last visit, the chef uses shiso leaves to wrap the Hokkaido Bafun sea urchin before putting into batter and deep-fry. A test of the skills of the chef to make this in a good shape and not breaking up in the process. With a bit of sea salt to season, it is delicious.
Going back to the teppanyaki the chef prepares the Ise-Ebi. With each person served half the lobster, the good sweetness of the meat, and the lobster bisque sauce to go with, are very good. We also like the Maitake mushroom with its different texture and also an extra layer of fragrance.
The tenth course is my favourite in the evening. The Kasugo Tempura is great in taste and understandably requires effort to remove the bones. The tenderness of the flesh is really nice, and the delicate sweetness is also memorable.
Next is the Grilled Shiitake. Another of my choice in the evening, the mushroom is cooked well but not dried, juicy and delicious, with the chef already brushed with shoyu so is already flavourful and does not require further seasoning.
The twelfth course is Grilled Wagyu, with the beef cooked to our requested medium rare perfectly, having a beautifully caramelized surface while the inside showing a nice pinkish red and tender. Good in the balance of fattiness, there are different condiments to pair, including mashed radish with vinaigrette, black pepper sauce, sea salt, and wasabi, plus some crispy garlic pieces to add to the texture. Very nice.
Coming to the end of the menu, the chef prepares a Fried Rice with an Egg Yolk Tempura. The rice is nicely done with each grain distinct, seasoned with a bit of shoyu and garlic. The egg yolk tempura is interesting, after breaking the oozing egg yolk seeps into the rice, adding extra flavours. Together with the fried rice there are also the pickles and miso soup. Very good.
The dessert includes Fresh Strawberry, Matcha Macaron, and Hojicha Crème Brulee. The strawberry is sweet and juicy, while the macaron is nice in taste as well, not too sweet. The crème brulee has fragrant roasted tea aromas, while the egg yolk ice-cream adds a contrast of temperature. Quite good.
Service is good, though if the staff can spend more time to explain the dishes it will be better. The bill on the night is $8,404 and is mainly driven by the high price of the sake. Honestly in terms of quality I would rate Tempura Uchitsu higher.
張貼
