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港鐵中環站 D1 出口, 步行約3分鐘 繼續閱讀
電話號碼
25205218
開飯介紹
柏屋總廚及店主松尾英明先生帶來獨特而傳統的日式料理,更安排跟隨他逾20年、最信任的弟子高橋純先生於香港店擔任主廚,務求做出大阪本店的味道。客人踏入餐廳時,便會看到國寶級的日本工藝品,當中包括和紙、木製品、畫像和陶器,讓客人沉醉於日本藝術文化當中。 繼續閱讀
獎項殊榮
米芝蓮二星餐廳 (2017-20)
營業時間
今日營業
18:30 - 23:00
星期一至六
18:30 - 23:00
星期日
全日休息
*截單時間: 21:00
付款方式
Visa Master 現金 AE 銀聯
座位數目
30
其他資料
Wi-Fi
酒精飲品
自帶酒水 詳細介紹
電話訂座 詳細介紹
外賣服務
加一服務費
食評 (54)
今日提前預訂的是十二月的菜單(師走の献立)。「師走」,日文 「しわす」(shiwasu),是十二月的別名(以前更是指農曆十二月)。十二月是一年最後的月份,快到過年之時,需要為節日的儀式忙碌地奔走,才有“師走”的別名。不過究竟「師」代表和尚、老師,還是寺廟的接待員,大家只能猜測,不得而知了。確實,二十一世紀的十二月,依然是格外忙碌的月份,這個月聚會特別多,也要為家人朋友奔波節日的禮物。適逢疫情,人多時不方便在外面用餐,更經常需要在家絞盡腦汁準備別出心裁的菜式。今日可以在柏屋一間遠離鬧市的和食餐廳裡安靜地品嚐師傅根據季節精心設計的每一道菜,實在難得。小時候挑食,不懂得欣賞懷石料理。在京都,正宗的懷石料理雖然價格不菲,但氣氛凝重,感覺比较拘束,加上食材種類及烹飪方式太多,獨沽一味的我實在不怎麼喜歡,每次到關西都只會勉強吃一頓。後來因大腸激躁症久病成醫,開始關注不同食物的特性和營養學,逐漸懂得欣賞食物的多樣化,更從中醫學中了解到食物之間的相生相剋和食用當季食材的重要性,現在再品嚐一次懷石料理,感受已然完全不一樣。其實日本料理的根源在京都,關西的板前割烹料理(在餐台前為客人烹調)在二十年代初首次在銀座亮相,引起熱潮,二戰後再次有不少有名的割烹料理人進駐東京,而當時日本茶道的資深老師傅也紛紛往東京開店,兩者相互交融,形成了東京獨有的割烹文化和日本料理。一頓完整的日本料理會特別注重視覺、嗅覺、味覺三方面的因素,不但需要食物及擺盤外表美觀,更要使用時令食材,做到平衡及風味獨特。今日廚師為我們準備的料理有八道。首先是先付(前菜),有日本海參、鯡魚卵夾昆布、白菜、京都紅蘿蔔及加減酢。前菜較為淡雅,微酸,溫柔地打開味蕾。第二道是煮物,以清酒煮雲子為主,湯裡有炸豆腐、蕪菁、芹粒及柚子蓉。深海鱈魚的白子是初冬的寶物,味道較濃郁,口感細滑豐腴,入口即溶。以日本酒蒸煮,確實去腥增香,很鮮味。湯裡飄雪般的柚子蓉和蕪菁,更為湯物帶來意外清甜的香氣。腸胃熱身後,廚師亮出漂亮的魚生刀,為我們準備第三道菜餚:生魚片(造り),有赤身、右口魚、馬糞海膽及魷魚。日文會用「刺身」或「造り」來表達生魚片,我最近了解到,原來刺身代表所有的生魚片,但師傅只會稱上乘的、擺盤精美的生魚片為「造り」。難怪這個詞語一般只出現在較高級的料理餐廳,以前我還以為只是一個更傳統的表達方式。今日的「造り」所呈現出的口感皆是無法挑剔,廚師每下落刀果斷快速,讓魚肉本身組織的傷害減到最低,留住其水份與鮮美。刺身入口後仿佛在口中跳動,所配上的兩款醬料也別出心裁,有甜有酸,建議每種魚生可以先不沾醬料吃一口,品嚐魚自身的味道、黏度及彈性,再與醬料品嚐。我認為馬糞海膽不需要醬料。八寸原本指的是餐具的長度,內裡的食物一般都是一口大小,是廚師展示季節食材和多種烹調方式的一道菜,更特別著重視覺上的刺激。我們今晚的「八寸」也像藝術品一般,有鮟鱇魚肝(配辣蘿蔔蓉、淺蔥、柚子酢及雪輪長芋)、高湯浸日本菠菜、油揚酒粕梅肉凍膠、玉子真蒸,以及蟹肉魚子醬配酢橘皮及炸大根霰餅。 除了鮟鱇魚肝入口的濃香細膩,尤其驚喜的是襯托著蟹肉的炸大根霰餅—薄薄一片,酥脆香口,與鮮香的蟹肉和魚子醬一起,異常特別。油揚酒粕梅肉凍膠也非常美味,口感軟韌,越嚼越有梅酸和酒粕的甘香味。蒸玉子和日本菠菜也是一流。第五道菜是焼物。簡單的一道和牛與焼蕪菁,配九条蔥、胡麻酢及胡麻(和牛、焼蕪、九条蔥、胡麻酢、すり胡麻)。這塊和牛片有完美的雪花,紋路均勻,肉質柔嫩,香氣十足的胡麻酢更為牛肉注入了靈魂,一口的份量剛好。在飽肚的主食之前最後還有一道鉢物(即燉菜)。廚師為我們準備了鰤魚和大根蘿蔔,配菊菜及針柚子(鰤大根、菊菜、針柚子)。燉菜一般以兩種或以上味道互相幫襯的食材而成。先說碗裡的蘿蔔,煮過後引出了蘿蔔本身的味道,並且絲毫沒有任何根渣,這麼簡單的食材也只呈上最上乘的,足見廚師極致的追求。鰤魚肉煮過後本味濃縮了,鮮味更甚,口感細緻,刀功和火候掌握得非常好。最後一道熱菜是日式蟹肉粥配三文魚子、三葉草、海苔、生姜及玉子(蟹雑炊、イクラ、三っ葉、海苔、すり生姜、玉子)。掀開碗蓋時感受到的香氣及色彩實在令人感動。蟹肉粥非常鮮甜,讓已經足夠飽的我又胃口大開。和菓子有羊羹粟粉餅、直接蒸煮的紅豆蓉和柿餅蓉,很甜很回味,也很有季節感。最重要的是與手打的抹茶一同享用,一甘一苦,相得益彰。最後是季節的水果。我認為正式的日本料理套餐(懷石料理)吃的是新鮮的食材和平衡的藝術,但吃的更是歷史、心思和執著。就像古典音樂,有比較,有了解,有經歷,會更加有欣賞的基礎。期待下次的回訪。 繼續閱讀
第一次嚐米芝蓮二星餐廳嘅懷石料理,樸實食材跟出衆味道令我讚嘆,而服務也非常貼心,每道料理都會同客人講解清楚明白,米芝蓮餐廳果然名不虛傳,三小時日本之旅簡直物超所值。 🥢先付日本海參 鯡魚卵夾昆布 白菜 京都紅蘿蔔 加減酢🥢煮物碗清酒煮雲子 厚揚豆腐 蕪菁飄雪 芹粒 柚子蓉🥢造里右口魚 吞拿魚 墨魚刺身🥢主廚驚喜*結婚週年紀念吞拿魚 海膽 鮮腐皮🥢八寸鮟鱇魚肝 辣蘿蔔蓉 淺葱 柚子酢 雪輪長芋 高湯浸日本菠菜 油揚酒粕梅肉凍膠 玉子真蒸 蟹肉魚子醬 酢橘子 炸大根霰餅🥢燒物和牛 燒蕪菁 九條葱 胡麻酢 胡麻🥢鉢物鰤魚大根蘿蔔 菊菜 針柚子🥢食事日式蟹肉粥 三文魚子 三葉草 海苔 生姜 玉子🥢菓子栗粉餅和菓子🥢水物二人共消費:$2616 (HSBC Premier Master Card) 繼續閱讀
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
等級2 2020-11-21
512 瀏覽
This is my second visit to Kashiwaya after one year’s time and it has improved a lot since my first visit. Honestly, kaiseki is not really my thing. In the world of kaiseki, people are looking for tradtional japanese cuisines and beautiful tablewares. Food is usually served in small portion and placed delicately, decent tablewares are used and the serving sequence are strictly standardized.They change the menu in a monthly basis. By the time I went for dinner in October, they were serving the menu of ”神無月”. In Japan, October is the month that all the gods are leaving their shrines and congregated annually in Izumo Taisha (出雲大社) in Shimane ken (島根縣). As such, October is also called “神在月” in Izumo shi (出雲市) as all the gods were gathered there during the month.The plating of food in Kashiwaya is very delicate. They used a lot of red leaves to decorate the dish and to show an autumn vibe. In terms of food, they put a lot of seasonal ingredients into the menu. Overall, it is an enjoyable dinner, and plus, the menu is on a buy-one-get-one free promotion if you got the right credit card. It makes this 2-starred michelin restaurant even more approachable.🥢先付: 車海老 魚子醬 指橘 水菜 黃菊 紅菊Sakizuke (先付) represents appetizer in kaiseki cuisines. It is usually the first dish to serve in the sequence.The saltiness and umami of caviar perfectly balanced with the sour taste of the finger lime. Kuruma ebi (車海老), on the other hand, is being a rather silence carrier and let caviar and finger lime shine in this dish.🍲 煮物椀: 清酒鹽燒竹簽魚, 松茸, 小蕪菁, 胡蘿蔔, 青菜軸, 柚子, 菊花Right after the appetizer, the soup, “Nimonowan” (煮物椀), would then be served. In kaiseki, nimonowan might also be called “御椀” or “椀物”.In high end kaiseki restaurants, you could find the bowls that used for nimonowan are usually wooden and are coated by a layer of urushi (漆), which you can also refer them as shikki (漆器) or lacquerware. They were traditional japanese crafts that have thousand years of history.Other than bowls, people would also use this technique on other delicate items such as chopsticks, fountain pens and boxes.Other than the ingredients mentioned above, the soup is made with kombu (昆布) and most importantly, katsuobushi (鰹節).There are several kinds of katsuobushi you can find in the market, which are 荒節, 枯れ節 and 本枯れ節. In which, the most expensive one would be 本枯れ節, as it got the most procedures throughout it's production.It took around 6 months to produce a piece of 本枯れ節. After the katsuo is killed, fillets are cut and bones are removed, the fillet would then be cooked, dried and smoked. At this stage, we could get 荒節 from it.Then on top of it, the workers would dry-aged it with mould, and put it under sunshine. 枯れ節 would be ready after these two procedures.本枯れ節 is simply a product from 枯れ節 after repeating these two steps with several months. Meanwhile, umami would increase from time to time. The longer the dry-aging process, say one year or two, the better 本枯れ節 you get.🐟 造身: 劍先烏賊, 中拖羅, 石鯛, 白玉梅醬, 昆布煮醬油Tsukuri (造身) consists of sashimi style raw fish, thinly sliced. Sashimi selected for the night were fresh enough, yet not surprising.✨🥢 八寸: 市松真蒸, 油揚菊花, 炸銀杏, 鹽揚甘鯛海老, 日本菠菜配白玉菇, 紅葉麩, 鯖魚棒壽司, 糖煮蕯摩芋 (Highlight dish)Hassun (八寸), also known as the seasonal platter, usually has the most stunning outlook among all dishes. Typically, there would be one kind of sushi, which is saba (鯖) today, served together with several side dishes. Saba was marinated with kombu, and the sushi was surprisingly good and full of umami. Saba sushi from high-end restaurants seldom disappoints me.Amadai (甘鯛) fried with fish scales, is another highlight of this dish. Amadai is a fish that doesn’t get a lot of character and flavor, hence, you can cook it any way you wanted.Usually, you don’t expect to see any scale on the fish you gonna eat. However, this way to fry amadai, is actually a common way to cook it. This piece of fried amadai with scales is crispy and seasoned to the right point.✨🥢 燒物: 灸燒和牛, 燒茄子, 酢橘, 唐辛子, 零余子, 花穗紫蘇 (Highlight dish)Yakimono (燒物), here comes the meat dish. We got grilled wagyu served with daikon oroshi (蘿蔔泥).The sourness of sauce and freshness of daikon perfectly balanced with wagyu and minimised the greasiness of this dish.The only problem with this dish was the portion. I wish I can get more slices of wagyu!🌟🍲 鉢物: 菱蟹蟹肉羹, 甘荀魚腐, 炸菊葉 (Dish of the night)For no reason I just like this dish a lot. A warm thick soup with fish curds to remind you that it is almost the end of the meal.You got crab meat with every sip of thick soup. Fish curd, on the other hand, brought this dish with some texture, very satisfying.🍲 食事: 松茸蛋花三葉草雜炊🥢 和菓子配抹茶This piece of wagashi made with two chestnuts. One on the outside while the other in the inside, soaked with brandy in low temperature.The way the made it let the alcohol evaporates and make sure only the brandy taste left.🍶 木屋正酒造 而今 八反錦火入 純米吟釀Jikon is one of the very famous sake brands both in Japan and Hong Kong. They got a series of sakes made with different brewery rice. This yellow bottle tonight we had was made with Hattennishiki (八反錦) and pasteurized with heat.It tastes better in cold rather than room temperature. Tasted like soda water at the first sip. Not much alcoholic taste and a rather refreshing one. Its fruitiness served well with kaiseki cuisine. 繼續閱讀
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
等級4 2020-10-03
1894 瀏覽
📍 柏屋 KashiwayaAddress: 中環安蘭街18號8樓8/F, 18 On Lan Street, CentralMichelin: 2 stars 懷石料理嘅歷史可追溯至400幾年前,係當時茶會時宴客嘅飯菜。一開始只有三菜一湯,但隨著我地嘅物質生活越黎越豐富,懷石料理亦越黎越多樣化。而家嘅懷石料理係最高級嘅日本料理之一,極其講究用料同擺盤,所以到訪米芝連兩星嘅柏屋前可算係萬分期待我地揀左$1680/位嘅套餐,由先付、煮物椀、向付 (sashimi)、八寸、鉢物、食事同水物組成。當中令我最深刻嘅係八寸中嘅燒麵豉翠肉瓜同食事入面嘅煮冬菇。適逢中秋佳節,佢地八寸嘅擺盤亦加入秋天嘅元素,用左紅葉🍁同稻草點綴,頗有心思整體味道較為清淡,未見多樣化;擺盤精美但不至於細緻入微。套餐價錢係一般米芝連兩星餐廳嘅水平,可趁 diningcity 嘅restaurant week或hsbc信用卡做promotion期間一試👌🏻 繼續閱讀
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)