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食家推介
招牌菜
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We always get great surprise when we are not expecting inadvance. It was a random weekday night, we had a casual dinner to wash off thewhole day tense after the office. A garden-like and countryside decoration madeour dinner place quite different and refreshing, even giving an illusion of thedaytime is extending.We were lead by the lead here and was offered a shortwalk-around to the basic concept behind this new Spanish restaurant in Wanchai.36-month Iberico ham was absolutely a must-try item, to have it with good whitewine, or just to wake the tongue before feast. The ham was cut precisely fromthe different parts which leaded you from dry to fatty-rich.Among the tapas list, I was introduced the two way ofoyster. Starting from the refreshing one fully covered by the beautiful mojitofoam, the journey started quite romantic; coming back to the reality, I was notdisappointed by the secondi (oyster) which was flavored by the olive oil andspecial tomato sauce, lifting up the taste a lot.The main course menu is designed to be quite balanced from theland animals to the fishes. I love the seabass deadly and almost 2 weeks afterwhen I brought my friends there, I ordered it again without hesitation. Thecombination of the crispy fish skin and soft snowy-white fish meat was perfectand the lightly over-burned aroma of the fish skin was well matched to thelightly sweet taste of the fish. I also like the yummy baby spinach as theside-dish.Before we continued to the secondi (main course), we wereintroduced to the mouth-refreshing dessert which is a creative design by theChef from Barcelona. It was a kindly of jelly dessert while the overall texturewas balanced by the pudding layer. The transparent orange jelly made of LICOR43was just awesome! Together with the Sangria snow on the top, it refreshed yourmouth, throat and stomach immediately and apart that, offering a beautifultaste of alcohol.The seafood paella was a bit different from the one we wereused to. It was more moisture and softened, more intense seafood flavor butless creamy.Dessert was actually the strength of the Chef here, for he’sstudied and started from the sweet stuff at the beginning. We had the first onewith coconut and mango brulee which was just perfect. The coconut cream puddingwas not too sweet and the taste was quite refreshing by the mango brulee; alsoit was even a little bitter as the coco on the top.The second dessert was richer in the taste for the bananabrulee and grilled banana slices, but no need to worry, because it was smartlypaired with the ice-cream.All in all, Quemo is worthy for the visit regarding to thefood, the drinks and their warm service. Also, they offer a little terrace fora tapas-and-wine night under the lights of Wanchai!!!
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我的2015可以用"马不停蹄"来形容,12个月除每个月最少飞一次之外,还夹杂无数次澳门、大陆之行。连带每隔两星期到湾仔开会的时间都没有,这次流到湾仔,当然顺道找朋友找餐厅食饭。素知QRE Plaza内餐厅选择多,于是就过去试试。对于我来说,未试过的都是新餐厅,所以朋友的介绍很少会反对;而且又想吃吃西班牙菜,所以就这家Quemo。入内,坐下,要了杯CAVA气泡酒清爽一下。CAVA是西班牙的气泡酒,口感清爽,酸度不算太高,略有如苹果、梨子的香味,也夹杂少许饼干的感觉。用CAVA来配衬48个月的西班牙黑毛猪腿,可说是总享受。刚好原来餐厅驻场有两位来自西班牙风腿制造商代表,为我们解释原来一只风腿在不同的位置,味道与质感都是不一样的。而且还有他们特邀的专家小心翼翼的将风腿切片。坊间不少餐厅都有以西班牙黑毛猪腿作招牌,但很多都保存不好,以令风腿油光尽失。这个水平绝非平常,每片都反射出油份光泽。四款风腿片来自不同的部分:一只放于架上的风腿,上层表面横的风腿是最常吃到的。油香丰富,咸中有回甜;而下层底部颇片的,筋位较多,有咬口但不如上层的软淋,可是油脂味更浓。然而下腿近尖的位置,瘦肉较多,质感较硬,咸肉香味较好。最后是风腿最前端转弯的部分,瘦肉多但软淋,后段甜香也不少。风腿之后,另一个前菜是餐厅推介的西班牙生蚝。坊间比较少听到有来自西班牙的生蚝,多是法国、南非、澳洲或是英伦海峡为主。餐厅也没有特别交待生蚝来自哪一个水域,如果Basque的话,水属暖流,反而没有太大有利条件。可能是来自西面近大西洋的Galicia地区机会会大一点,那边水流凉快一点,蚝身肉质成长较好。首先是左边的的,肉质较脆而薄,口中清爽,蚝味不算浓。配合蔬菜醋汁,味道更觉清凉。再来右边生蚝,口感较重,蚝身绵滑可口,蚝味较重。配上用Gin做成的foam,令口感更加一致。进入主菜部分,先来个煎的鲈鱼。鲈鱼鱼身虽然不算厚,非深海的海鲈鱼品种,但是外脆半煎半泡油的,所以脆口香口。而鱼肉仍可保留软淋汁香,质感很好。除此之外,配菜也不错;薯饼慈味而香,调味中混有Basil令味道多一份清香。加上以红椒打成泥而做成的伴碟酱汁,鲜味而有甜味。还有盘底的蔬菜,增添中式元素。西班牙菜,吃个烧乳猪好像也是很平常,不过餐厅的这个乳猪菜叫作Suckling Pig Terrine。为何会是Terrine呢?原来这道乳猪菜的处理皮肉分开,猪肉以slow cooked方法烹煮。猪肉软淋,入口有溶化感觉,少少咸香夹杂点点猪油脂香。猪皮应是半烤焗的,油脂不多,但脆口香;加上少少皮下脂肪,与猪肉夹著同食,口中虽然有点腻。可是加点烧汁与薯仔做的foam,令质感变得轻一点。再来一个Soupy Rice,不少人可能以为这个是西班牙著名的Paella,而会觉得太湿,可是并非如此。因这个是Soupy Rice,是半汤半饭的,所以会有半溶的汤汁酱。米粒吸收了汤汁、蕃红花,加上以虾头虾膏的鲜味,令味道一下子立体起来。由西班牙红虾的虾膏作主轴的多层复杂味道,鲜味香浓,咸香而香料丰富。西班牙饭粒粒分明,弹性有咬口,与汤汁配合甚好,混入一些海鲜的肉感弹性,味道质感都一流。主菜的红虾件头不算大,但是味道香,肉质亦好。甜品方面,这个Banana ice-cream & pudding味道不错。下层是软滑的Banana pudding,上层放有一片片的香蕉片,旁边的是香蕉雪糕。同一样的味道,三重不同的口感;再洒上粒粒脆口的Crispy Hazelnuts,甜香而有焦糖味。另外,为了平衡口味,香蕉的甜香配合热情果汁酱,加上旁边热情果核,酸甜感觉更好。整体来说,餐厅的食物效果真的不错。除了如西班牙风腿来料的良好食材之外,头盘主菜配搭都算很多,加上甜品的突出,可堪回首。
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周年纪念日, 就豪气少少食餐好; 港岛区西餐厅多, 经友人介绍底下拣左位于湾仔合和对面的QUEMO 西班牙菜特点系菜品丰富, 口味浓郁! 我知道佢分左做好多唔同菜系, 但知识有限的我真系分唔到边个打边个, 总之重口味就系啦 看到餐单, 确系唔识拣, 上网见到一系列菜肴, 就咁拣左个餐厅推介二人餐ona Lola Iberico Ham Platter哗, 品酒师厨师我都见得多, 火腿师我就真系第一次见, 亦睇得出餐应好重视黑毛猪, 而呢个由右至左分4部份的食感如下:Jarrete: 口感较软身Babilla: 硬身, 味道较浓Maza: 脂肪多, 入口即溶, 我的最爱Punta: 味道淡, 女士会钟意西班牙 Galicia Oysters用Gin Tonic做成的泡沫放在其中一只上面, 苦甘味有中和头先黑毛猪的腻的作用 另外一只就油浸橄榄油, 重口味黎啦! 橄榄油香, 配以番茄粒的清新, 实在有一种Double Tasting的感觉 蒜香虾球虾球大大只, 肉身肥厚而不硬, 用上蒜子爆香, 佐酒一流 烤乳猪上次食过烤乳猪之后, 一试难忙, 估唔到短期内又有得食番! 但今次同上次好唔同, 今次佢用上自家焗炉, 焗到肉身超软, 实在系比上次有过之以无不及; 但乳猪皮就无咁脆, 始终针无两头利 Sangria Snow系食精彩炒饭前, 先过冷河, 整番杯Sangria Snow! 要由底食到上面的次序, 先试底层的橙加酒Jelly, 再到中间的cream, 然后再到顶层的Sangria Sorbet, 热盘与热盘中间的过冷河, 配以多重层次, 清新去腻, 醉意余温, 出色 地中海红虾炒饭全晚高潮真系一浪接一浪! 大厨将红虾的虾糕打碎, 混入湿饭中, 香甜炒饭立即完成! 虾身肉质非常爽弹, 味浓香溢, 一口接一口真系停唔到口 甜品时间, 无谂到竟然打孖上, 感动得难以形容:椰子姜味慕丝姜味再浓一点就好, 反而椰子味出, 松软香滑 自家制雪糕香蕉布丁热情果酱伴随, 淡淡爽口酸甜, 视觉与味觉交织的作品
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西班牙菜,跟法意德菜等同为特式欧洲菜,可惜有名气的西班牙菜在香港总难冒起头来。闻明世界的黑毛猪火腿,Iberico ham,但对大部份香港人,天下火腿就只有金华,金妹及parma ham,论质素就像天和地的分别,一个西班牙一个意大利,详细不多解释,有心的人总会自己钻研一下。那为西班牙菜难以成名,人们为何不能用法国菜的价钱享用一顿西班牙式的fine dining呢?今天来Quemo尝了一顿特色的Chef Menu,不能不推介一下吧。餐厅装潢未算突出,火腿吧于餐厅一旁,切火腿师即席挥刀为客人客上鲜切火腿。移玉步到室外区,空间不小,三五知己摸摸酒杯底,消除烦恼的好地方。火腿是由Dona Lola供应,100%橡果喂饲的bellota,无知的我还在望住Bellota Bellota,口中还叹著5J的时候,惊觉天外有人,腿外有腿。Dona Lola的火腿自称没有分销,保证是Farm to Kitchen,新鲜度截然不同。拼盘供应四个部位的火腿- Jarrete,较近小腿骨的位置,肉质纤维比较凌乱,咸香而带干身。- Maza,大腿骨后方的位置,肉质及脂肪纹理细致整齐,油脂香浓,口感味道都比Jarrete优秀。- Babilla,大腿骨前方的位置,油脂比maza少,肉味较重,但相对油脂较少,橡果香也较低。- Punta,大腿尽头连接髋关节的位置,颜色最深味道亦最浓,不论肉香及油脂味均是最佳,肉质结实却一点也不韧,超级推介。配上汽酒有助平衡油脂及有清新口腔作用,亦有助带出下一口火腿的特色。来自加利西亚手掌心般大小的生蚝用上两种做法。- 用Gin Tonic做成泡沫再用上份子料理的方式将酒制成鱼子般作点缀,为之后的主菜作了最完美的凖备。- 大配角的高质的橄榄油,配上生蚝很配合,平衡感很好,一点也不觉油腻且带有强烈的榄油香。配上西班牙的Moscatel,甜身,想不到也很合衬。鲈鱼煎得金黄香脆,肉质保持嫩滑,鱼油十足。同是配上Gin Tonic泡沫,有酒香且清新。底部有青豆Terrine,感觉没有肉或肝制Terrine的腻,有点像薯饼的感觉。最特别的是配菜用上菜芯,西餐上实不常见。烤乳猪配合慢煮的做法,肉质异常嫩滑,滑得入口即溶,皮烤得刚刚好,脆口之中亦不失猪皮的烟韧感。西餐经常会有一道雪芭以作清新口腔之用,没想过西班牙菜亦会出现,而且十分惊喜。底部是Licor 43做的啫喱,香甜带橙香的烈酒,中间的是橙味雪糕,再配上Sangria做的雪芭及橙皮碎作为顶层。就是满口橙香,酒香,作为清新口腔未免太出色了,吃完一杯真想再添一杯。最后的主菜,感觉有点西班牙饭,其实是一道汤饭配主的是手臂般长的地中海红虾。这道菜食法是先将虾头内的膏及汤汁全挤压出来,再伴入饭的汤汁内同时享用。那种甜,甘,鲜,非笔墨能形容。虾肉煮得刚熟,没有想像的结实,软滑的虾肉伴有淡淡海水味及浓烈的鲜虾甜味。不愧是虾中之王。材料有椰子,姜及芒果,感觉充满东南亚风情,椰子味香浓清甜,姜辣度清淡适中,配上芒果汁有提味作用,很特色的一道甜品。以香蕉为主的甜品,有糖煮过的香蕉片及香蕉雪糕,香蕉fans的大爱,热情果汁有点带酸,配上脆口的花生糖,份量不大,又一道想一吃再吃。西班牙菜Fine Dinning的体验,感觉比法菜意菜更惊喜,菜色有创意之余亦不会失去味道的重要性,以这个价钱可以充份享用到西班牙菜的特式,Wine Pairing,特色的火腿拼盘,地中海红虾,份子料理,绝对值得一试再试!
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又系一年一度的Mr.K 生日,我地又有藉口食餐好!今次系我发办,俾得我发办当然系拣我钟意食嘅菜式,我真系好幸福㗎!今次我地去左食西班牙菜,一入门口就见到好大只Parma Ham, 两位职员服待佢,之后同他们倾计,原来黑衫𠮶位已经有25年切Parma Ham 经验,好厉害啊!听到O咀!既然又咁劲既师父,我地都叫左几款嚟试下, 睇下同出面食有咩分别,服务员都会话俾我地听,应该边只食用的先后次序!而今日咁开心,好少饮酒的我,都饮左一杯香槟.... 酒味好清甜,所以本身话饮半杯,慢慢成杯饮晒!四款 parma ham各有特色,单睇我都分唔到边只打边只.......不过服务员都会介绍返进食o既先后次序!呢度嘅Parma ham 品牌系 Dona Lola, 喺西班牙南部自由放养,虽然看似油光满布,但入口不觉肥腻,加上刀功了得,薄到透叉!25年功力,真系果然系劲!之后嚟左个Giant Oyster Doux,来自死海的生蚝上面放上两款全然不同的配料,味道都几特别!第一只系用槛榄油浸住,入口油润,生蚝肉质Creamy,我这个不太食蚝的都觉得好味!另一只系泡沫嚟,味道酸酸甜甜的上面有少少啫喱,淡淡的调味令到食味更显层次,海水味都几突出又不失鲜甜!呢度的菜式,材料大部份都系西班牙运来,但都会加返喺楼下街市买到的食材!就好似呢个鱼,入面就有菜心的出现啦!Gin Mare Matinated Seabass with Potato and green Bean terrine鱼肉以传统的西班牙煮法,Basil, Rosemary, olive oil, 煎得好滑溜,透出淡淡的香草味,加上泡泡好似艺术品!下面仲有萝卜糕的东西,煎得香脆且没有突兀。之后是Suckling Pig, 呢度系一块咁上,唔系已经切成细碎,用左慢煮12小时的方法,猪皮脆卜卜,而猪肉却嫩滑,肉汁丰富又不肥腻!食左咁腻的菜式,店员送上清清味蕾的雪葩,佢系用左多款不同的酒已成,包括红色的Sangria Snow, 下层黄色啫喱层系用Licor43 为材料,入面系有43种不同的材料而成,因为我唔太饮得,所以食左一啖就算!加左柚子所以味道酸酸地唔厚重,酒味都系唔觉唔觉,但因为要返屋企都系唔敢再食!jelly and cream licor 43 with sangria snow之后就系Paella , 佢系用西班牙的红虾,头大身细系佢地的特征,虾头有大量虾膏,加埋落西班牙饭度食真系好香好香!呢个饭真心系正!饭身吸收晒海鲜的精华,超香浓,而且啲海鲜真系好弹牙,我地一路食呢个饭,一边都话无得顶,就系呢个饭,我地都觉得呢间餐厅有Take 2!话咁快就甜品,系一个椰子味的甜品,上面舖左少少可可碎,远看似盆栽㗎!Coconut and Ginger mousse with mango cream and cocoa soil.椰子𠮶部份质感似布丁的,放喺芒果汁上面,经过浓烈的味道,淡淡的椰香显得既清新又讨好!仲有一个香蕉的甜品,banana ice cream and pudding with passion fruit cream and crispy peanut,伴以朱古力雪葩都系好清新好令人surprised!加左少少花生碎,软滑中更显层次感!呢晚真系饮大左,我去到中段时间忽然话想试下切Parma Ham, 当然系切到一忽忽,把刀好难控制,都多谢两位师傅俾我玩!呢餐饭真系食得好开心!Happy Birthday to My Dearest !
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