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2025-07-16
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This Michelin 1-star restaurant offers French cuisine and is located at the historic two-storey building at PMQ, which used to be Police Married Quarters. Having visited almost five years ago, today we returned to see what Chef Loic Portalier has prepared for us.On the ground floor of the building is a bar and outdoor terrace for more casual drinks and dining, while ascending the stairs leads to the main dining room. Seated at a table on the window side looking out to the balcony, the décor is e
This Michelin 1-star restaurant offers French cuisine and is located at the historic two-storey building at PMQ, which used to be Police Married Quarters. Having visited almost five years ago, today we returned to see what Chef Loic Portalier has prepared for us.
On the ground floor of the building is a bar and outdoor terrace for more casual drinks and dining, while ascending the stairs leads to the main dining room. Seated at a table on the window side looking out to the balcony, the décor is elegant, with warm lighting, a luxurious yet relaxing and comfortable setting. From my spot I also got the pleasure of seeing some of the actions in the kitchen at the back.
We have chosen the Prestige Menu ($1,888 each) and I also go for the wine pairing ($1,088). For aperitif, I started with a glass of Eric Rodez Blanc de Blancs 37 edition ($228). This Grand Cru Champagne, made from grapes from Ambonnay, is a blend of 3+ vintages, with a floral and delicate nose, good acidity and highly refreshing.
The Amuse Bouche is a Beef Consomme. The intensely flavourful broth has a creamy and rich Parmesan foam on top, scattered with some garlic croutons and chives to add to the texture and taste. Reminding me a bit of an espresso, it is delicious and the first time we have a broth for amuse bouche.
The Homemade Sourdough has a crunchy crust while the inside is airy and light. With a cream cheese butter on the side, the bread are so good that we finished the two pieces straight away. The staff then kindly provides another serving which we also annihilate.
The first wine paired is Taittinger Folies de la Marquetterie. This Champagne is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir growing on the hillsides around Chateau de la Marquetterie, where the Champagne House started, with a deep yellow colour and nice fruity bouquet of peaches, leading to toasted brioche and vanilla, and a full-bodied palate.
The first course features Langoustine. The raw langoustine is chopped to small pieces and served in tartare fashion, mixed with some smoked cream. On top is a thin slice of tuile, which supplements crispness to the bite. The sauce is made with clementine and fir buds, to give the citrus vibrancy with a nice pine fragrance. Very pleasant and tasty.
The second wine paired is Domaine Courbet Savagnin Sous Voile. This Jura wine aims to show the full potential of the varietal aged under flor but not into the vin jaune style. Having a nice almond and citrus peel note, together with honey and spices, plus the high acidity, it is the perfect complement with the food coming next.
The second course is Caramelised Onion Tart. A buttery “Brioche Feuilletee” sits on the thick, creamy sabayon prepared together with vin jaune, infusing the sauce with the unique taste. With the caramelized onions on top, and together with Comte cheese cream, it is delicious and complex in taste.
The third wine paired is Domaine Lambert Le Chenin d’a Cote, a Chenin Blanc from Chinon, with aromatic white flowers, plenty of fruit like apple, citrus, and stone fruit on the nose. The palate has good acidity, a sharp minerality, with chalky instead of the typical waxy characters found in the varietal from other parts of the Loire.
The third course is Meuniere Frog Legs. Inside the bowl the chef put the butter poached frog legs, fully remove any bones, and cut into small pieces, together with cep and quenelles, which are essential fish meatballs famous in Lyon, before pouring in a watercress velouté, with a delicious peppery note. Together with some chives and croutons, it is phenomenally good. A must order.
The fourth course features seasonal Morisseau Mussels, which are cultivated along the Brittany coast. The mussels are poached slightly and still retains the umami taste and tenderness, paired with a fennel salad and the sauce with Amalfi lemon for its citrusy freshness. There are some small Nduja pieces for additional savoury taste.
The fourth wine paired is Benoit Ente Bourgogne. While the producer is less famous than his brother, this white wine is very pleasant and nice, with green apple, lemon zest, and white blossom on the nose, an elegant palate that has quite high acidity but not austere, plus nice minerality but not oaky.
The fifth course features Brittany Dover Sole. Underneath the fish there is some cucumber puree together with grilled sweet peas, providing a nice combination of textures. On the side are the prized Kristal caviar, paired with the beurre blanc sauce. With some dill to add to the fragrance, the fish is very nicely seasoned and grilled, wonderful in taste.
The fifth wine paired is Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino. Changing from French white to an Italian red, this wine has a rich nose, showing nice ripe cherries and raspberry, sweet spice, and some toasty cedar with hints of vanilla, also having a smooth palate and velvety tannin. A good match with game, and meats of leaner cut.
The sixth course features “Fabien D’eneour” Brittany Pigeon. Served in two ways, in the centre is roasted pigeon breast with some pine nut crumble on top to give a crunchy bite. On the side is the shredded pigeon meat, stewed for long hours and covered with pastry. Together with confit fennel and onions, and “Sauce Diable”, of black pepper condiments, it is another great dish.
The sixth wine paired is M. Chapoutier Bila-Haut Rimage. With lots of dried fruit, this fortified sweet Banyuls has plenty of coffee, toffee, and nuts. Made from 100% Grenache, it is powerful in nose yet has still got a nice acidity to bring freshness on the palate, making it a good complement with dessert made with chocolate.
The seventh and final course features “Tulakalum” Dark Chocolate. The single origin chocolate comes from Belize and has nice tangy notes, sitting on top of caramelised sourdough ice cream, with toasted sourdough crisp. Together with some cocoa nibs praline and a drizzle of whisky for fragrance, the chocolate wraps up this wonderful meal.
The Petits Fours is homemade Canele which are not too sweet, with a crunchy surface, and a nice vanilla taste, pairing well with a cup of espresso to finish. The restaurant also provides a couple of Madeleine for us to bring back home as snacks, both good in taste. It is a satisfying and enjoyable meal throughout.
Service is great, with the staff friendly, helpful and attentive. Chef Loic Portalier also comes to our table to introduce the main course and interact with us. The bill on the night is $5,864. If you want to enjoy nice French cuisine in a more relaxing ambience, Louise is a good place, and in cooler season can also consider dining on the balcony too.
张贴
