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2017-03-30
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If I were to pick a particular kind of noodles to represent Hong Kong, I would give my vote to this unique and comforting noodles in condensed tomato broth other than cart noodles (車仔麵) that would have come to your mind. Thick broth is always the soul of noodles, regardless of whatever ingredients to be put inside. To pair pho with vietnam, ramen with japanese, boat noodles with thai, then Sing Heung Yuen's tomato noodles with Hong Kong.Tucked away in an open space linking to a staircase at the
If I were to pick a particular kind of noodles to represent Hong Kong, I would give my vote to this unique and comforting noodles in condensed tomato broth other than cart noodles (車仔麵) that would have come to your mind. Thick broth is always the soul of noodles, regardless of whatever ingredients to be put inside. To pair pho with vietnam, ramen with japanese, boat noodles with thai, then Sing Heung Yuen's tomato noodles with Hong Kong.
Tucked away in an open space linking to a staircase at the back streets of Central-Sheungwan area, the halfly al fresco eatery is all the time busy. With canvas as shelters and placed with simple stools and wooden tables, the "daipaidong" stood there for more than 40 years, but it wasn't until 2000 that they started specialising in tomato broth dishes.
There aren't many food stalls like this remaining in Hong Kong, the license of which stemmed from wartime Hong Kong and was only given to families with injured civil servants with limited transfer of ownership. Originally operating as an all-round Chinese eatery serving a variety of cha chaan teng food, it added tomato slices to a bowl of noodles as requested by a customer, which in turn creates the legend of tomato broth noodles. At an average price of $35 for a bowl which is on a par with a meal box in fast food shop, it brings locals who desperately need an affordable meal, and tourists/ holiday commuters who are drawn by the fame of divine goodness of broth.
Among daipaidongs that I have ever visited, hygiene condition of this is way above average. Apparently looking fine on a sunny day that I paid this visit, it doesn't look that bad on rainy days either. Canvas above you do its job well to shelter you away from the rain but at the same time don't shed water on your back. While tables, stools and metal fans are gone when the shop closes, these green shacks remain, which are in fact the indispensable part, the Kitchen.
Noodles are prepared in one side, the space of which is just fit for 1-2 ladies' moving around. Another side is for roasting crispy bun and preparing sandwiches. Given such a petite kitchen and limited staff, the food stall is operated smoothly with high efficiency. Sun or rain may determine how long you have to wait to be seated, but time and season doesn't really matter. With nearly flawless memories of the ladies, your order is usually served within 10 minutes after getting seated.
The menu seems to be long, but in fact just repeats combinations of ingredients, the price of which mainly varies with number of ingredients. The exuberant menu covers noodles with/without tomato broth, sandwiches, buns and drinks. What to be put inside noodles are common enough to be found elsewhere, such as beef, ham, sausages, luncheon meat, pork chop and chicken wings. Noodles served after breakfast time are instant noodles and macaroni.
蕃茄牛肉碎牛炒蛋通粉 Macaroni with tomato, scrambled eggs with corned beef and beef $35
蕃茄牛肉碎牛炒蛋通粉
$35
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About the broth - Not much oil floats around, just a little bit probably from the scrambled eggs. What makes the fame is how thick the tomato broth is, which is not made by adding tomato slices or concentrate into boiled water. Pot of delectable tomato soup is cooked every day with lots of tomatoes, thus giving such a visually-inspiring red broth with plenty of tomato slices. The broth tastes tangy and superbly refreshing, without much add-on of artificial sweetness.
About the other ingredients - Beef and scrambled eggs with corned beef are my all-time favourites that never disappoint. Eggs with finely chopped beef is mildly fried and scrambled, therefore it can't be firm enough to be held long on a spoon or chopsticks. Permeated with aroma of not totally done egg and briny beef, pieces of scrambled eggs are blended beautifully, so flavourful on its own that neither egg nor beef overpowers each other.
Beef is always tender and without tendon, which nearly melts in your mouth with a sip of tomato broth. Smooth and gentle, there lies no necessity to linger long in your mouth but swallow. Robust beef flavour remains from plain beef slices, which suggests 'less is more'.
檸蜜脆脆 Butter & Honey with Lemon Crispy Bun $16
檸蜜脆脆
$16
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It is not a surprise that most of us finish off the tomato broth like this. Just like ramen, it seems to be paying tribute to the chef, but it is genuinely decadent instead of courtesy that makes me drink it all up. Hearty noodles as always, Sing Heung Yuen is one (among several) of my favourite local eateries where I long for a visit at desperate times. What I pay is truly worth the wait and crawl, instead of going to food presentation and vibes.
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