更多
2016-02-14
7061 瀏覽
豐富多彩的懷石料理，101樓的維港景色，友善體貼的服務，最適合喜慶約會。Elegant Japanese fine dining.Excellent sashimi.Exquisite view from 101 floor.Great service.Worth a try. 太太生日飯是絕對不容有失。要選一間有點浮誇之餘又有實力的並不容易。雖然之前從未光顧田舍家，但朋友們都對它評價不錯，自己亦做了點功課，對它有信心，於是就立定主意訂位。訂位時已發覺爐端燒位全滿，只剩下鐵板燒位或四方抬。反正對爐端燒興趣不大，所以我選擇了進可攻，退可守的鐵板燒位，以策萬全。(意思是太太如想吃鐵板燒的話，我們已佔地利，如想吃其他亦可。)Where to go for one's wife's birthday is an important question. It must be spot on. This year I decided to go for something slightly extravagent yet safe: Inakaya.Inakaya is located at t
101樓的維港景色，
友善體貼的服務，
最適合喜慶約會。
Elegant Japanese fine dining.
Excellent sashimi.
Exquisite view from 101 floor.
Great service.
Worth a try.
太太生日飯是絕對不容有失。要選一間有點浮誇之餘又有實力的並不容易。雖然之前從未光顧田舍家，但朋友們都對它評價不錯，自己亦做了點功課，對它有信心，於是就立定主意訂位。
訂位時已發覺爐端燒位全滿，只剩下鐵板燒位或四方抬。反正對爐端燒興趣不大，所以我選擇了進可攻，退可守的鐵板燒位，以策萬全。(意思是太太如想吃鐵板燒的話，我們已佔地利，如想吃其他亦可。)
Where to go for one's wife's birthday is an important question. It must be spot on. This year I decided to go for something slightly extravagent yet safe: Inakaya.
Inakaya is located at the 101 floor of the ICC building. I seem to recall that it used to do robotayaki only. Robotayaki refers to a style of eatery in which the chef grills skewers and then serve the skewers directly to the customer through an oar. It's a reference to the origin of robotayaki, namely, fishermen grilling their food by the seaside and then serving it with the aid of their oars.
Other than Robotayaki, Inakaya also serves other types of Japanese cuisines such as Teppanyaki, Kaiseki, Sushi and tempura.
田舍家佔地頗大，有爐端燒位，壽司吧位，鐵板燒位，大量4-8人枱。應有數間貴賓房。店內非常熱鬧，其實很適合大夥人。幸好，鐵板燒位自成一角，較為清靜，亦能將101樓的維港夜景盡收眼簾。
Inakaya is modern, elegant and very spacious. Of course, there is the wonderful view of the Victoria Harbour. They have normal tables, sushi counters, Teppanyaki counters and VIP rooms. It's actually very suitable for big groups.
我們點了「野澤料理長お任せ」 和「田舍家お任せ」。店方上菜的節奏很好，兩個不同的餐生熟食物不盡相同，但都做到大致同步。(懷石料理中有很多菜式是沒有特別名稱的，所以以下有些食物名是我跟據菜式材料來改的，請勿見怪。)
One could only order robotayaki at special robotayaki counters but not at other tables/counters. We sat at a Teppanyaki counter that evening but weren't too keen about Teppanyaki so we went for two "omakese" (chef's recommendation) sets instead. One was called "Chef Nozawa's Kaiseki" and the other was "Inakaya Omakase".
野澤料理長發板:Nozawa Omakase:
前菜
64 瀏覽
0 讚好
0 留言
鰹魚節番石榴: 爽脆鮮甜的番石榴配上適量的鰹魚節。配搭簡單但味道很有層次感。
番石榴下兩塊類似蛋糕的東西其實真的是蛋糕- 但是蛋糕箱押鯖魚。概念其實是將箱押壽司的飯換作蛋糕，很創新的配搭。蛋糕鬆化而清甜，鯖魚肉質結實，醋味適中。很不錯。
ずんだ豆腐 (Zunda Tofu) : 枝豆蓉豆腐。 枝豆蓉這材料其實經常用於懷石料理或其他日式糕點。用在豆腐內除了令顏色變綠之外，亦令豆腐增添一點枝豆特有的味道和令質感更為煙韌。豆腐上的蟹肉亦很鮮甜。
焯熟了的甜蝦上有魚子醬。甜蝦有很多蝦糕，鮮味和鹹香並重。味覺上與其他菜式完全不同。
右上角白色的是白籮蔔，內有明太子。味道較精新而且手工精緻。
右下角的是鯖魚或池魚南蛮漬け。相信大家對南蠻漬應不會陌生。基本上是用醋，蔥和紅蘿蔔來醃各種食物 (多數是雞和某幾種魚)。這味漬魚味道正宗，不會過酸或過淡。
每一道前菜都很有誠意。每一種味道都很突出但很協調。
Nozawa: Appetizers (from left to right)
Guava with fish flake: very fresh and firm guava with bonito flakes. Light sweetness mixed with a bit of umami makes a very interesting combination indeed.
Saba Cake ( for want of a better translation): The two pieces of cake-like items were really saffron cakes, but combined with vinegar marinated Saba pressed into the cake. This combination is very original and the taste was very harmonious, to my surprise.
Zunda tofu: The green color of what essentially is a piece of tofu came from "Zunda", a paste made from edamame. This made the texture of the tofu more chewy. In Okinawa there is a type of tofu called Peanut tofu, also similarity chewy.
Broiled shrimp with caviar: There was a lot of shrimp miso in the shrimp, which is fairly uncommon. The shrimp miso, together with the caviar, really increased the umami.
Daikon with mentaigo (top right): a very delicately made item. A very thin piece of daikon with a small opening carved into it and then filled with mentaigo (fish roes). Apart from the lovely visual effect, the combination of crisp daikon (white radish) with the saline umami of mentaigo was good.
The final appetizer at bottom left is "Saba (?) nanban": Those who are familiar with Japanese cuisine should be familiar with this one. Essentially it's fish marinated with vinegar, spring onions and carrot. The relatively sharp taste served its purpose of awakening the taste buds for the dishes to come.
Very impressive indeed.
三點刺身拼盤
98 瀏覽
1 讚好
0 留言
從照片已能看到海膽非常新鮮，分量慷慨。大拖羅溫度剛好，入口即溶，鮮味爆燈。牡丹蝦同樣新鮮，肉厚而爽。山葵是生磨的，香草亦色澤漂亮。
老實說，一向認為在香港很多由集團經營的日本餐廳的刺身都是不太新鮮或性價比低，所以並沒有太大期望。但太太和我都覺得這裏的刺身非常讚。實在出乎意料。
(Nozawa) Assorted sashimi:
Very generous amount of fresh uni which were bursting with umami. I forgot to ask where those were from but probably from Hokkaido.
Ootoro and shrimp: Again, both were very fresh. The temperature of the sashimi were just right. The ootoro in particular was bursting with umami.
茶壺湯
70 瀏覽
0 讚好
0 留言
(野澤)茶壺湯: 用魚，蝦，香菜，帶子和鰹魚節來熬的清湯鮮味濃郁。提議加點青檸汁，能大大提升鮮味。Teapot soup: Made of white bodied fish, shrimps, vegetables, scallops and grated (cod?). Remember to add a bit of lime and eat everything in the pot. Delicious.
炸鱈場蟹腳
56 瀏覽
0 讚好
0 留言
旁邊的是炸雞肉露荀卷，茄子和大葉(紫鬚葉)。三款去油攻夫都做得很好，感覺鬆化又不油膩。得別是炸大葉是相當難炸得好的。
Fried taraba crab leg and other fried items: Not as good as it looked. Slightly dry in the middle. The one next to it is fried asparagus wrapped with chicken breast, fried eggplant and fried shiso.
燒香魚
51 瀏覽
0 讚好
0 留言
這燒魚屬於中上以上的水準。魚肉鮮甜但魚身可再燒得結實一點。在香港，我較喜歡「佐瀨」的燒香魚。
The fish itself is not that expensive but grilling an ayu can be a real test of a chef's skills because of it's small size and body proportion. This grilled ayu was above average. The fish had umami but the meat could be firmer. I prefer the one at "Sushi Sase".
雜炊
43 瀏覽
0 讚好
0 留言
One could choose either udon or egg congee. My wife choose the latter. Standard fare in Japanese set meals. Decent.
煮もの
47 瀏覽
0 讚好
0 留言
Melon and Dried Tofu in Fish Stock is certainly a very "kaiseki" dish. The lightness of taste and freshness of ingredients remind me of Kyoto cuisine. The fresh melon went very well with the extremely sweet carrot. My wife really enjoyed it.
甜品有蜜瓜和芝士蛋糕。蜜瓜好像不是靜岡的但尚算清甜。由於太飽的關係，將芝士蛋糕帶走。太太說很不錯。
A slice of melon and a lovely piece of cheese cake to conclude the dinner.
田舍家 套餐:
Inakaya Omakase:
只是擺法不同，但和野澤的前菜相同。Same as the Nozawa Kaiseki but with a different presentation.
刺身
55 瀏覽
0 讚好
0 留言
另外有雕魚和鰤魚。鮮度亦不錯。雕魚吃後有一股淡淡的鮮甜味恆久不散。鰤(はまち)魚肉質結實，同樣令人滿意。
The assorted sashimi was just as good as the Nozawa Kaiseki. It came with Tai, Hamachi and Akami. The Akami was incredibly fresh, not to be taken for granted as it tends to lose its freshness far more rapidly than other types of fish. The tai in particular was very good.
壽司
64 瀏覽
2 讚好
0 留言
火炙白身魚壽司: 不太肯定是甚麼魚。但火炙成功地帶出脂香，燒得不錯。
The two pieces of sushi (uni and grilled white bodied fish) did not look much but the uni in particular had very good umami.
宮崎和牛
68 瀏覽
0 讚好
0 留言
Miyazaki wagyu: Relatively oilier than other types of wagyu with a rich taste.
天婦羅
47 瀏覽
0 讚好
0 留言
可能因這心態，令我覺得這裡的天婦羅很不錯。所有炸漿都絕不油膩，外層鬆化之餘內層不會過硬，而是有點像薄薄的麵包均勻地包著食才。鮮甜的天婦羅鱈場蟹腳尤其出色，比野澤套餐的炸鱈場蟹腳優勝得多。大蝦亦是新鮮貨色。露荀爽脆無渣，南瓜夠粉，番薯清甜結實。非常滿意。
As far as tempura restaurants in Hong Kong are concerned, it's hard to beat the tempura served at "Ippou". Nevertheless, those served here were far better than my initial expectations. The batters were crunchy and not oily and the ingredients used fresh.
燒銀鱈魚
71 瀏覽
1 讚好
0 留言
Cod fish: Most probably grilled with mirin (a Japanese condiment similar to sweet wine) instead of miso. Generous portion and good timing.
炒飯
57 瀏覽
0 讚好
0 留言
Finally, the teppanyaki standard fried rice had fish, egg and carrorts. The addition of yuzu, which gave a lovely, refreshing citrus aroma, was most interesting and welcomed.
甜品亦有蜜瓜和芝士蛋糕。
Finally, a slice of melon and cheesecake to complete the wonderful birthday dinner.
總結:
兩個懷石料理套餐各有千秋。野澤料理長懷石的刺身較好，菜式整體較考手工，精緻和清淡，有點京都料理的影子。太太很喜歡這套餐。
田舍家套餐則傾向熟食，食物份量比野澤的多一點。相比之下好像豪邁一點。我較喜歡這個。
無論侍應或鐵板燒師傅都非常友善，服務周到。冷氣凍可以調低，亦有毛氈供應。
近來發現香港的日本菜水平質量已不停改善，非常接近日本。是值很高興的事。
當然，最重要的還是太太吃得開心。任務成功 - Mission Complete!
Conclusion:
The Nozawa Kaiseki had better quality sashimi than the Inakaya Set. It also felt more "Japanese" because of it's light flavour and emphasis on skill and the original taste of the ingredients. My wife prefers this set.
On the other hand, the Inakaya Set had more cooked food. I also find it more wholesome. I prefer this set.
The bill came down to $1980 per person plus 10% service.
Birthday dinner - Mission Complete!
張貼
