Buri (wild Japanese yellowtail)
Buri (wild Japanese yellowtail)
Kawahagi with raw liver on top
Kawahagi with raw liver on top
Kuruma ebi (Imperial shrimp)
Kuruma ebi (Imperial shrimp)
''Snake'' belly, bluefin (farmed Japan)
''Snake'' belly, bluefin (farmed Japan)
One evening in early January 2013, I had a very memorable experience at Sushi Mori 鮨森日本料理 in Causeway Bay, right in front of Mori-san himself. It was my one and only visit, and it was extremely memorable. I had been wanting to come back.
Then fast foward sometime to December 2013, I tried looking for Mori-san, but he left the restaurant. Then much later he resurfaces in North Point (closer to Fortress Hill) at Sushi Mori Tomoaki where he has more business decision power, and his loyal local fans managed to find him.
Mori-san is an interesting fellow. Half Kansai Japanese, half Hong Konger (he's also a local!). And he speaks both fluently. His father is trained classically in kaiseki, though he chose the route of sushi. Made a reservation at the bar in front of him the day before, and it was like reconnecting with an old friend. Non stop conversation with delectable solid bites in between. As it was my last lunch in town, I did a pretty much full blown omakase and went to YOLO town (in the United States, young girls love to use the term YOLO, YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE, but usually they are partying hard in Vegas and puking on the dance floor with their Cosmopolitans), despite the fact that two days prior I went to the 2nd best nigiri joint in Osaka.
So yes, Sushi Mori Tomoaki, is a very pleasant experience overall, despite the fact good sushi in HK is not a cheap endeavour. I still enjoyed my lunch very much.
The entrance is just a wall with an electronic sliding door, and a set of noren with a Japanese symbol. If you do not look for this, you will miss it. Then again this is the only JP restaurant on Shell street.
The restaurant expanded in the past 8 months to include two sushi bars side by side. All of the staff are well trained, but you want to sit in front of Mori-san himself.
To start, a spectacularl gorgeous authentic chanwanmushi with Matsuba snow crab, mushroom, yuzu zest (grated from fresh imported Japanese yuzu). Silky smooth, intense, delicious just like the one I had in Kyoto.
Thick pickled ginger slices (akin to daikon) placed on the earthenware dish. No excess moisture and very pleasant with a crisp.
Nigiri time! But before I begin, I want to place emphasis on Mori's style of sushi. It is not traditional Edomae, which you can find at very many places. His approach combines tradition with non tradition, in a way that works very interestingly. In that sense, his approach is subject to interpretation, and there will be fans, as well as those who do not understand it (and unfortunately be quick to judge). Once you realize what he is trying to accomplish, you may appreciate his work that much more. While the quality of the fish is very good, there are likely sushi snobs who will think the Michelin star places offer far superior quality. While that may be true, Mori-san compensates for this by applying very interesting techniques to further enhance the experience, and in some ways may work as good as, if not better than the competition.
Openrice only allows me to upload 12 pictures, but I ate far more than that. I went for the dinner omakase (nigiri omakase) but during lunch. Yes I was willing to go big...
Shima aji - a prime specimen with delectable garnish and knife strokes
Buri (wild JP yellowtail) - a light brush of nikiri seals the deal
Kawahagi (filefish) with raw liver on top - Two places in SF Bay Area used to offer this seasonally and now they don't get them anymore. Such a pleasure. The liver is soft and runny, guess it is advantageous for JP/HK to be within 4+ hours of air travel.
Aji - So delicate, with very light garnish! This lunch is getting good!
Applewood smoked Nagasaki oyster - fecking incredible
Seko gani kani miso (香箱蟹) - the tomalley/inside of the female JP crab head. Looks like ankimo had a one night stand with mustard seeds. Very interesting
Aka mutsu - look at the knifework on that!
Kohada - it's not a tip top prime specimen, but Mori-san puts in the necessary skill (and fusion touches) to make it complete. First he marinates it in apple vinegar which is already very unusual. Then he puts a thin layer of kelp on top, akin to Osaka style saba sushi (battera). His reasoning: you can find Edo style sushi easily in HK, the dare to be different and doing it right, makes you stand out. And I have to agree.
Kuruma ebi (imperial shrimp) - Last time I had this was Akiko's San Francisco before chef Ricky left last year. Here this specimen is more crisp and spectacular.
Chu-toro - it's excellent, can't complain
Shirako (cold milt) - look at the picture, it's so fecking CUTE! Seared and prior to that, smoked with apple wood. Genius and creamy!
Seared meiji maguro (baby bluefin) - Ridiculous hard to procure. He sourced this cut to a katsuo (bonito) specialist vendor in Japan. Sometimes baby bluefin are caught in the nets meant for bonito, and thus a rare treat.
Otoro - sublime
Japanese uni - nuff said, looks a bit like aka uni. From 888 Ogawa Company.
This one is interesting... blue fin tuna meat from the top of the head! A very unusual cut, and after searing almost looks like JP beef. Super interesting texture and taste!
Hokkaido scallop with shaved yuzu zest - tried and always true. Meaty with the right balance
Unagi senbei - Mori san doesn't screw around. The traditional approach is to steam, grill, then steam again. To achieve the crispy "rice cracker" effect, he doesn't do the final steam, but instead just heats it up more. This mofo is not deep fried like a jive ass roll. Great job Mori-san!
Steamed abalone - Kuro awabi must be darn expensive to get to HK, and whatever he used is good. Loved that extra nikiri/brushed sauce on top!
Tamagoyaki - this is his signature castella / Katsutera pound cake style tamagoyaki. Good stuff indeed.
Mori-san continues to season his sushi rice with aged red vinegar, and the color is far darker (once applied to the sushi rice), yet it does not taste terribly sour. I didn't even see this kind of colored sushi rice in Osaka. It's yet another attention to detail and skill that elevates the experience.
Had to run to the airport, and passed up on offer for free dessert and coffee (coffee in a JP restaurant in HK? Haha nice). Half the price of 3 Michelin star Sushi Shikon, and you can still leave satisfied.