CLOVER Cake & Coffeehouse tucked away in North Point area though it is closed to the famous Yat Woon Min and opposite Provident Center. I knew of its existence back six months ago when I had a chance to visit the shop days before its opening when its coffee gears were being setup. At the time, I was quite impressed with the coffee and think that I will definitely drop by for a cup. Nevertheless, one thing leads to another, this is the first time I had that chance.
Nice and clean shop front
Nice and clean shop front
The store front decoration is clean and nice and I like the push door open/close strip that somehow reminded me of the fond memory I had from my trips to Tokyo. Inside, the seating area was quite opened and airy, very comfortable to sit though I'm curious about noise level if the restaurant is at its capacity as all surfaces are flat and smooth. Anyway, it's more of a nitpicking here for this nice coffeehouse.
I like the cake showcase a lot. It looks quite stunning in front of me and I like to have everything that was there as they all look real good to me. While I realize that there is a space limitation here, the showcase was way inside the coffeehouse which some customers may miss this gorgeous cake showbox as they may just sit on the seat in the front section of the shop.
Raspberry Yuzu is my choice
Raspberry Yuzu is my choice
I picked the $30 Raspberry Yuzu for its look. I have to confess first that I'm not a fan of any cake in Hong Kong which seemed to have a sponge like texture.
Nevertheless, the added yuzu in this cake conveyed just enough zing to the whole thing, making the cake lively in the mouth and allowing me to forget that mushy/softer than soft rubber like texture thing that seemed to be what local likes. In fact, this was among a few time I can really finish the whole cake so Kudos to the pastry chef. I was told that the chef used to work for Teresa's festival a long while back.
A tangy Yuzu goes well with the cake
A tangy Yuzu goes well with the cake
Back to the main reason I dropped by this place, the coffee.
From the picture, you see a rather simple setup but it works. A "Prosumer" Expobar Office Leva and the famous Anfim Super Caimano are the coffee package that proved itself before elsewhere it can make a killer cup in a capable hand. It seemed the dual boiler espresso machine that Office Leva sports works well outside Italy as the focus is more toward milk drink. The grinder wasn’t actually just an afterthought in making good coffee but one of the major factors whether one can succeed.
A decent setup for coffee making
A decent setup for coffee making
Now, how’s the cup. Let start in chronological order. The Capp I ordered to accompany my cake was surprisingly OK even though the barista used the spoon in pouring the milk..
The look of this Capp may be quite disappointed. I actually don’t mind that there’s no latte art on top; I’m more concerned about the taste, the velvety texture, the temperature and the milk sweetness. The foam top was quite fragile as the barista spooned the foam cap into the cup. My understanding is that she tried to create the famous Cappuccino ring though it didn't look like that. Despite the watery milk under the fragile foam cap due to the usage of spoon, the milk texture was not too bad even after this abusive technique and some sweetness was there. By the way, I asked for not too hot cup which seemed to be the key words these days to get any decent milk drink in the town that people like it really "hot". Another saving grace is the coffee with a nice milk chocolate tone which helped sweeten the drink further.
In all, it's an OK cup with potential to significantly improve on, i.e. using free pour instead of spooning and keeping the temp lower not to scald away all those sweetness and goodies milk can deliver via frothing.
Not too bad considering the look
Not too bad considering the look
How about its black coffee.
The espresso was very interesting with some acidity wrapped around by a hint of body. Nevertheless, this blend had a very long lasting milk chocolate tone over half an hour. Amazing.
Let me talk about the blend a bit. The potential of this blend is much more than the cup Clover delivered to me on that day. The blend Clover is using is a Single Origin blend of African bean. If you follow the current Indie trend, the Single Origin blend is what is hip and happening in the coffee world these days. This blend has been tasted by coffee lovers and was judged at 2010 HK GBC. The blend scored very well at the competition and came in among the top score coffees and could possibly be the highest score in that competition.
In addition, I consider this blend a homegrown pride as it is designed and roasted locally in Hong Kong via a local master roaster who is also coffeegeek and one of the technically proficient barista too. I tasted this coffee pulled by combinations of machine and grinder before so I am somewhat familiar with the blend and know its potential. At its peak, one should get a quite pronounced orange/orange peel taste with a milk chocolate aftertaste on top of a rather clean cup. For coffee lover, this is an enough hint to tell them where the coffee was from and roughly some basic roasting/blending technique used in arriving at this blend, definitely not a rocket scientist thing. This taste profile can be achieved on a pressure profile modified espresso machine and from the espresso set that Clover is using right now as I tasted them both earlier.
With this much help, the coffee has to be good. I would say what one drinks at Clover is at best the base line of what this single origin blend and the coffee machine can offer. No, the coffee at Clover is not a kind of shot that will make the head honcho at Barista Jam sleepless at night; far from it. At minimum, the barista needed to work on the mouthfeel/body and created a cup with more pronounced taste and clarity than what it delivered so far. It’s the Mano that was quite lagging here, not the coffee and the gear.
However, even with its base potential, it could easily knock your socks off. To be fair, we should compare the drink at Clover to other cafés that boasted their imported beans or some cake shops that seemed extremely meticulous but using imported Italian coffee. Seriously, with this only base performance delivered by Clover, this coffee was way beyond all those imported Italian at any regular cake/bakery or café in term of drinkability, particularly on black coffee. Typically, I had a harsh/acrid/burned cup from those nicely decorated coffeeshop and some even told me that if I don’t want those bitter/acrid tastes in my coffee, I should drink water

… I wonder they have ever tried coffee at Clover before they make such a remark. Whether all of them fell victim of romanticizing all things Italian or something along that line!
Let me stress again that you won’t get the peak performance of this coffee gear and blend at Clover for now. Its barista needed to improve a lot more. But what you get is a really well worth your time, a drinkable cup of espresso with a decent tasting note here. No typical bitter/overextracted coffee in your cup with espresso at Clover. Also, one doesn’t need to resort to those milk and sugar for the ‘cover up’ job. In this sense, Clover more than achieves a baseline what a café should offer on its coffee. A prized possession of neighborhood cafés like Clover without acrid/harsh tone in the coffee at all is worth a strong recommendation so much so that if you are in the area and wants one of these, Clover is the place I can recommend for a drinkable espresso in this neighborhood.
Drinakable but can be much better
Drinakable but can be much better
And this was the damage to me on that day. Of course, I will be at Clover again next time I'm in the area.
Damage to my wallet that day
Damage to my wallet that day