For a strictly HK-islander (live and work in HK island), going to Kowloon side may be a big deal. A big question mark used to pop up every now and then with a big WHY. Now that I get to follow my tastebuds to explore good eats in the city, my reluctance to go across (or under) to the other side has diminished into nothingness, although once in a while heading to Wong Tai Sin just for lunch may be bizarre, yet this thought was quickly extinguished by the anticipation of good food. In the next three reviews (my first arc of 3 reviews) I am writing three different hotspots for Sichuan food here in the city.
Determined to write that, I was on the next train and after some considerable efforts conquering the not-very-steep slope I arrived at 詠藜園 yet again. The bright red sign with brownish copper words big across the top never failed to capture my attention. The eatery is a staple for Sichuan cuisine in Hong Kong, and despite a more glamed-up branch opened in Hung Hom a few years back, I insisted coming to the old branch. There's just something about the older waiters with their tempers and the old mirrored walls with colorful paper strips stuck high up there as the menu. Walking in you'd passed the cold-dish kitchen, where trays of braised bamboo shoots, "smoked fish" and "marinated pork hocks in wine" gathered. The eatery is not very big in size, as it may get crowded during peak hours (lunch and dinner). The hostess suggested we call in for a table, we never did at lunch during the week, not even on saturdays.
There are certain staples at 詠藜園 that one must indulge in when you come in. DanDan noodles, traditional of 'improved', apparently are both flawlessly made. I preferred the traditional version, where handmade noodles are cooked in a pot of boiling water, then nicely arranged in a warmed bowl filled with a broth that's been flavoured with sesame seed paste, chopped peanuts and finally decorated with a light sprinkle of scallions. The neatly arranged noodles were soon slurped up -- ever so smoothly and easily. Chinese Rice Cakes dishes are also great here. For stronger flavours you can try the twice-cooked pork with rice cakes (回鍋肉炒年糕)-- the traditional dish of twice-cooked pork was made with that sweet fermented bean sauce, together with red and green peppers. The taste is sweet with a little bit of heat from the peppers. Rice cakes with three treasures (三鮮炒年糕) is lighter, with the three treasures being shrimps, ham and bok choy -- the rice cakes were more chewy than the twice cooked pork version. Another must-eat is the ever-popular "Mouth-watering Chicken" (口水雞). This one is certainly different. Instead of bone-in, 詠藜園 uses only the thigh meat of a chicken, boned but skin-on for this dish. The chicken is first cooked, then rested on a bed of fiery red oil-mixture consisting of chopped Chinese celery, garlic and roasted peanuts. The Sichuan Peppercorns offered the numbing sensation after one bite, as the moist chicken acts as a blank canvas that allow the fiery sauce to shine on its own.
Braised bamboo shoots (油炆筍) is my favorite cold-dish on the entire menu. The waiters proudly shared with us tips of producing them at home, by using canned bamboo shoots, cook in marinade and eventually let it cool. It's simplicity to the core. Soup-Filled Buns (小籠包) are large and come in 10 pcs per order. They can be difficult for 2 people to finish them in case you want to eat something else. The wrappers are thin but the inside is juicy throughout without the maxed-out saltiness. You can actually taste the pork and the minced ginger in the filling. "Tiny Wontons in Chili Oil" (紅油抄手) is satisfactory, the wontons are miniature sized as they're supposed to be, but the chili oil seemed to lack depth. It's not very hot not is it very fragrant in the first place. Hot and Sour Soup (酸辣湯) is wonderful. The consistency is good without being too thick. The ingredients are all there --
"Smoked Fish" (薰魚) is a favourite cold dish here. The fish is not actually smoked. It's marinated in dark soy sauce and then deep fried until crispy, then cooked in a marinade with rock sugar until the sauce becomes syrupy and the fish develops a dry flaky texture with a sweet glaze on the top. 詠藜園's smoked fish vary in quality. I've had impressive ones, but I also had mediocre ones. I was lucky, though, to only have one bad experience. Rice cakes with preserved vegetables and pork shreds (雪菜肉絲炒年糕) is oily but the saltiness of the pickle offset the rice cakes blandness to create the perfect harmony. Skip the potstickers (鍋貼) if you may, they were poorly executed with wrappers too thin and too much chives (and too little pork) in the filling.
Having visited 詠藜園 for a few times, the service is always prompt and impeccable. I would skip the deep fried red bean crepe (豆沙窩餅), since the batter for the crepe was right but it was too fried...as the crust became crunchy like spring rolls but not a softer execution, the red bean filling has also been too thin. Thinking about all the good eats of Sichuan places, I have come to know of 詠藜園 rather late, but I've had some fond memories of remarkable meals here. Every time I've felt satisfied with my tummy full, walking back down the slope that once got me feeling exhausted walking up (when hungry). I always knew I'd come back for more visits.
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