This is more of an impromptu visit as a coffee enthusiast asked me whether I want to try coffee roasted by himself and I can make it just in time. Typically, I won't go this far out of my usual coffee area but I took it as an opportunity to find out about this Café that was mentioned quite often by places I frequent.
Simple decor; I quite like the place
Simple decor; I quite like the place
The "but" on the heading is reserved for "but my cover was blown" as this coffee enthusiast introduced me to Ben, one of the owner, and Gary, the senior staff there. I typically enjoy visiting the café on a low profile/incognito kinda thing. Not that I'm that important but I like to get an exact same treatment as any other customer does so that I can recommend the place knowing that my experience is highly likely to be repeated in the same manner with any other customer.
With all the disclaimers above, I can now say that the hospitality at Café Golden was great.
Knowledgeable and professional personnel took care of my orders without a glitch. Other customers in the shop looked quite relax and happy too so I think this is probably the DNA of the shop which can only be achieved from top down, a great thing indeed. Kudos to all staff at Café Golden for the level of services shown which is quite difficult to find these days. Ben, the owner and barista himself, showed me things that indicated he and his partner are really "in" to the coffee. Apart from roasting coffee himself, he maintains what I consider a "mini-lab" at the back of the shop. There's all the goodies; some are not easy to find in HK and elsewhere like Versalab M3 grinder, Extractmojo/New VST Coffee Refractometer and more... The roaster I saw looks more like a sample roaster and I was told the place used to use a home roaster Gene Café for coffee served there.
Now, what's matter to us coffee lovers is what’s in the cup.
Souffle like foam cap... better than expected
Souffle like foam cap... better than expected
My first usual was Cappuccino. Its signature soufflé like foam cap reminded me of the same drink from the defunct Café Little in Sheung Wan which somehow further reminded me of Barry Yuen; it makes me cringed any time I see this kind of preparation. Nevertheless, the foam cap here is much better, i.e. maintaining some velvety texture vs. the ‘nasty’ fragile sponge/plastic like I had at Café Little and wanted to forget. Unfortunately, that's all the good thing I can say about the milk drink. The temperature was on the high side, scalding away the goodies in the milk, i.e. milk sweetness and texture. With the foam cap like that, it is unlikely one can feel the velvety texture in the frothed milk no matter how good barista frothed the milk. I believe spoon played some part in this though the 'liquid' under the foam cap wasn't as bad as I thought it should be, i.e. not quite like a dishwashing water left in the container.
I typically like a lower temp drink which preserves the natural sweetness of the frothed milk better with the great texture vs. the usage of "foam cap" as a tool to maintain the heat in the cup. Nevertheless, lots of locals preferred hotter than hot drink to "warm their heart” and will reject any drink I considered at a right temperature as “too cold or too lukewarm" for them, i.e. a flawed cup for this type of customer. Thus, if you are like me in enjoying the natural sweetness with nice texture in the milk, as for the "warm" drink and "free pour" cappuccino next time. I don't need to have a latte art on top, just a nice temperature with velvety and milk sweetness from well crafted frothed milk is sublime. With the hotter temp than my preferred range, not much of coffee base can be detected. Let move on to its black coffee offering.
Surprisingly good for "spiked" imported coffees
Surprisingly good for "spiked" imported coffees
My espresso was prepared by Ben himself. The cup was surprisingly good for an imported coffee with some sweetness following by some spicy/funky kick (what that coffee enthusiast and me agreed to call "an Italian kick") toward the end of the cup. With imported coffee, the cup will not be as lively (felt kinda blunt or something is missing) as locally roasted coffee, the benefit of locally roasted bean which was not that difficult to get these days in Hong Kong. Nevertheless, I later learned that Café Golden "spikes"

its imported coffee with its in-house roasted bean. These locally roasted beans will change over time so it's less likely you will get the same cup I did. To me, this is how Café Golden balanced out the local taste profile, ie roasty coffee, with some liveliness of freshly roasted bean to create the "best of both world" signature blend kinda thing. Of course, for me, I would go all locally roasted coffee; why bother to keep some drag in the hopper. Nevertheless, judging from the number of customers today at the hours approaching its closing and the overall ambience/feel, I think what Café Golden did is a bang on for its target and they know their customers well.

Layers of goodies = empty cup, fast! :)
Layers of goodies = empty cup, fast! :)
I ended my coffee “journey” today with an espresso made by Kenyan bean roasted by a coffee enthusiast which will remain unknown unless the person is willing to disclose oneself.

As expected for this lemony coffee, the acidity punch was front and center and quite hard to take for the very first sip. Once this first phase was passed, the sweetness rode on top the lemony tone was quite mesmerizing, reminding me of the experience I had with the sought-after $$$ like Panama’s La Esmeralda (yes, in espresso form by Barista Jam). The picture of the empty cup reminded me of the fragrance note which is very nice. However, the most important of all is that this was the best cup I had today at Café Golden. The coffee has a nice crema (sorry no picture as I finished this great cup in no time) and layers of taste I haven’t had for a long time. Credited this great cup to Gary Chow himself. The cup benefited from what seemed to be the character of the spring loaded piston machine (this one is from Wega), ie some form of pressure profiling which resulted in a rather smooth and round cup which is easy to drink and work well with acidity forward coffee like Kenya though acid freak in me can take more of this taste. However, one won’t get a superb cup clarity which is a signature of high-end espresso machines these days from Synesso and the like. La Marzocco GB5 has never made the cut for me, at least from my own experience so far with both experienced and newbie baristas operating this “de facto” machine vs. the cherished and extremely consistent cup clarity from Synesso and the like.
Spring loaded lever - easier cup for newbie
Spring loaded lever - easier cup for newbie
This evening at Café Golden made me change my mind about this café 180 degree. Despite good words from persons I trusted on coffee, the soufflé like foam cap, its reputation of dark roasted bean and the distance vs. other great cafés were deal breaker for me earlier I’ve never thought of visiting this café before. I can now recommend those who in the area to have the coffee at Café Golden with ease. Yes, it has some quirks for darker roasted/imported beans but one gets an easy to drink cup which is very good for newbies to the coffee world, thanks to its machine and roast level that seemed to fit local taste profile. If only they can let go the soufflé like cappuccino and focus more on free pour which looks “normal” but allows the frothed milk to liberate the goodie the frothed milk can contribute.