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2009-11-07
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Let's face it. Da Domenico is classified as an Italian Trattoria but no more. (Trattoria Definition: Less formal than a Ristorante, more formal than an Osteria.). If you don't believe me, well, it happens to agree so on their own business card! I must say that I arrived here carrying the mentality of 'a Man on a Mission' - acutely aware of its notorious pricing policy and its recalcitrant-stance in blocking any reviews by famed Food Critics... I could already imagine myself erupting into out
I must say that I arrived here carrying the mentality of 'a Man on a Mission' - acutely aware of its notorious pricing policy and its recalcitrant-stance in blocking any reviews by famed Food Critics... I could already imagine myself erupting into outbursts of mockery laughter after the meal, as I would clinch at any opportunity to pounce on the pretentious and declare Ceremoniously at the end of the meal, that Da Domenico the Trattoria, of limited menu items, can thereby be banished into the over-rated category and register a place in my books of 'Yet Another Myth Busted'. Mentally I was prepared to claim and repudiate the experience as something along the line of "Opportunistic vultures, who don't bother to print out but hand-scribble their menus with exuberant prices for both mediocre service and food quality. *Already having my self chuckle at this point! * But that doesn't mean my evil demeanor will all eventuate according to plan! As I began digging into my dish after another dish, will I uncover any major flaws or minor blips and bloopers, which would add up enough for me to debunk the myth and 坼它的招牌?
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"BREAD BASKET" -
This consisted of Bread Crisps and a vertically cut rather than diagonally sliced baguettes. They were not only stone cold upon arrival, but initially no accompaniment of dips or butter were given automatically. After notifying the waitstaff, a tenuous answer in the form of a weak knod was detected before some Balsamic Vinegar, a home-made Pesto dip and an Olive Oil bottle were placed on the table.
The balsamic was great and viscously thick as expected, it of a decent quality and properly Aged. I don't normally have balsamic with bread but I found myself innately re-dipping the bread into the pond of syrupy essence. The olive oil was of the solidly robust rather than fresh, lively dressing type. It was good but lacks the depth of top quality oil. The pesto meanwhile was a perfect partner to the crisp bread, but the bread loses out to the quality shown at Zefferino's. If only the bread was pre-warmed..... but nevertheless, another encore round was ordered. I want to indulge in more of that vinegar... rather than the bread.
"LINGUINE CON GAMBERI " -
Da Domenico has a selection of signature seafood dishes. In between the Sicilian Scampis and the equally famed Linguini with Gamberi Prawns, I was more interested in the latter - scampi's aren't as easy to stuff up as a more 'revealing' pasta. Afterall I was here to try their cooking!
The Linguine was surprisingly made up of 2 types of prawns rather than singular type. It has lots of prawn heads and legs all intact and sometimes I had to spit the legs out repetitively! The prawns given in larger quantities were more of a normal, locally sourced sea prawn, whereas the more expensive imported Italian Prawn counted as totalling 3 medium pieces! The latter are of the Italian 'Gambero Rosso' variety from Sicily, a name more synonoumous with the prestifious Food & Wine guide or Restaurant which has superceded the meaning of the famous original Italian Red Prawn.
The Linguine pasta wasn't home-made but one wouldn't expect it to be, no sane chef will make linguini in-house, much like Inaniwa noodles in Japan. I have no problems with that. The pasta was cooked to the perfect degree but it was a medium for soaking up the seafood sauce rather than carrying its own soul, as it lacks pasta wheat taste. The Sauce carries a hint of alcohol and some mintily aniseed flavour somewhat (whether from softened fennel or Pernod or other herbs I can't tell), the prawn heads and shells plus possibly other shellfish or fish, cherry tomatoes and tomato puree and saffron made a delectable base stock that coated each strand of pasta. It was really good indeed. Both types of Prawn meat however were slightly over-cooked, the red prawn tasting better than the lesser prawn in terms of flavour, but their heads were awesome as expected.
Having said all that - I've always believed that any Crustacean arthropods and their heads will inevitably carry a lot of umami aroma and taste and in that sense, one must give credit to this natural ingredient rather than attributing it completely to the skills of the chef. Any Crustacean based dish, involving the usage of say Crab Roes or Crayfish shells and livers, or Prawns - when cooked with ENOUGH quantity of crustacean roes and shells are bound to fulfill your senses. As a side note, that is why I detest the usage of prawn heads in a Bouillabaise soup, as it ruins the fish sweetness and essence. Compared to a similar pasta dish I tried cooking just once before, I think mine wasn't too far off to be honest. Bearing in mind - this Pasta set me back $480 + 10%!
SCORE: 4.8/5
"FETTUCINE AL RAGU" - Spelt Fettucini on Shop's Menu?
A Ragu or Ragout pasta dish is one of my must orders when trying a restaurant because a Tagliatelle with Ragu is one of the most traditional pasta dishes in Italy. Its a good test of the kitchen's cooking skills and bares all to the outside world, their inner food philosophy and training skills.
Unlike the Linguine above, this Fettucine was made in-house and hung dry before re-cooking. Although it lacked eggy taste, it was cooked perfectly again and probably the most perfectly cooked pasta I've had recently in HK, more so than the above dish. It also resembled more of a Tagliatelle than a Fettucine in terms of thickness and mouth feel.
The downside to this dish is obvious to the keen eye, however, The so-called Ragu meat tasted mainly of de-skinned sausage meat, usually reserved for cooking Bolognese sauce than a true Ragu - which by defnition should be a slow-cooked meat with a shredded meaty texture that has absorbed its braising liquid. Here, it was mostly like minced meat, slightly herbed, spiced and chili. It was enjoyable definitely but does not satisfy the hype of its namesake, considering this simplest of simple dishes sets one back in the order of $240 + 10%.
SCORE: 3.8/5
"TIRAMISU" -
I was already full and hoping to order an Italian Coffee, them using an imported brand that isn't available in most Italian restaurants. But a Cappucino here is $60 and an Espresso would cost $55. Ouch! Bordering on Mandarin Oriental prices and even more than Robuchon and PIERRE.
In the end I opted to try the Tiramisu, to be served in a Cup. My expectations were high, again, don't forget I was still on a mission! Should I see any downfalls during any part of the meal, it would only make me more right in the end!
Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately since I will pay $77 for this, it really was a great Tiramisu and completely authentic in taste. In some areas better than the COVA version. Although not much Savoiardi biscuits were detected at the cup's base, the filling carried some coffee liquor essence but perhaps it could do with more! The creamy topping meanwhile was full of Eggy and Mascarpone taste, largely yellowish beige in colour and beaten to a pleasantly smooth texture rather than overly dry nor overly refrigerated. Its not perfect - but its relatively one of the best I've consumed in Hong Kong so-far. Once again it proved my previous bias as being a bit too sensitive and paranoid, this Trattoria really had substance!
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IN SUMMARY - I thought the food served in Da Domenico can only be rightfully declared as really good but somehow amiss in terms of satisfying the 21st Century palates. All of this quality comes at a price and one surely should not expect Haute Cuisine quality dining and be pampered by Culinary masterpieces. That's even though you will end up paying nearly the same price or more anyway!
Quintessentially Italian Trattoria food very well executed, its nothing more and nothing less. It reminds me of Auction Bids - every human values an item, a wine or an antique item slightly differently in their own unorthodox perspective. If you're happy to pay a 50%+ Premium for essentially classical dishes, but with very limited choices and friendly yet unprofessional enough service, then this I could unconditionally recommend to you. I certainly enjoyed my meal but unfortunately, a ho-hum $240 Fettucini Au Ragu dish once again failed to thrill nor astound my senses, infact my Spagehetti Bolognese eaten at Quarry Bay Epoch at 1/5th the price carried more sophistication in the meat's cooking. The Bread basket was really below modern standards despite everything else falling into place eventually during the night. The general score must be marked down accordingly and fairly.
OVERALL: Mid '3' to Mid '5'
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