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2009-03-10
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It's been years before I revisited this Wan Chai favorite. The first time I was here the floor was slippery and there were barely any lighting. I was here with family on a Sunday afternoon. It must've been at least 5 to 6 years before I went again. For so many years I'm surprised my OR buddies haven't forgotten a neighborhood gem, famed for its Curry Lamb, Roasted Duck and slow-cooked 'pomelo peels". Located on the first floor of a market, 清真惠記 shares the same space with a handful of other small
Located on the first floor of a market, 清真惠記 shares the same space with a handful of other small joints. Plastic chairs and wooden tables, plastic cups and communal jug of room temperature tea, chopsticks and plastic spoon on plastic trays -- settling in one of these tables overlooking the counter, I realized that rush of nostalgia hits back at me like things have never changed at all, and when the food came, I realized once again, that things haven't changed all that much.
Rice with Lamb Curry ($26) was a fantastic treat. Big chunky bits of lamb (bone-in) slowly simmered in a richly spicy curry sauce. The succulent lamb was moist and tender, with the necessary gamey taste to it. (wouldn't you be at a loss without the gaminess?) Curries have always been about the sauce. This one is no exception. You can taste a strong punch of spices rhapsodizing in your palate as you taste along. Don't forget to have plain steamed rice to go with the curry. There is, however, some doubt over the portioning. You can see the rice piled up like a small hill. Be sure to ask for smaller portions, so you don't waste anything. Another big star of the show here are the potato chunks that go with the curry. The spuds are angular cut and fried in hot fat to form a nice crust. Pairing it with the curry everything tasted just fantastic. Do ask for a few more chunks if you can.
Rice with Roasted Duck ($24 per plate) was a scrumptious picture to describe. Look at the picture here, you'll see brown crispy skin under tender meat chunks, again bone-in. There is something utterly fulfilling gnawing on bones, to recognize a somewhat innate canine-like desire to tear meat off a bone with the mouth. A rich five-slice seasoning marinates the duck thoroughly, without a too-salty sour note like some roasted ducks you have elsewhere. There is little sauce to go with a pile of rice served here, you can always have the lamb curry sauce (just the sauce) with no additional charge.
Slow-cooked pomelo-peels (蝦子柚皮, $13, not pictured here) is a popular dish that's often sold out during the weekend. Pomelo peels are soaked with several changings of water until soft and then cooked until partly translucent and rid of any bitterness. It acts as a soft sponge that soaks up flavorful broth. Then are then cut into large pieces and served with a light sprinkling of shrimp roe. The texture was quite funny, if you ask me. It's somewhat like a sponge, or more like over-soaked soggy bread. But fret nothing, if eating skins of citrus fruits is not your cup of tea, you can always have boiled goose intestines ($15) or more roasted duck/ lamb curry!
Some things did change. When I was little I didn't understand a single thing about 'halal' and the reason behind the sign "no pork allowed". Now I do. There is not an ounce of pig-anything here at清真惠記 . Even the wontons served here are made with minced chicken with mushrooms. This no-pig policy is to be respected, despite orders can be considered quite forgiving to the servers here. You can feel free to ask for more/less rice...or potatoes, and more sauce too...Like I said, even the sense of generosity hasn't changed over the years, despite what has outside of this corner of the market.
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